Sam looks like you have enough adjustment in the bridge. I've never used a wrap around bridge but see the screws can push it back or forward more. The heavy E string usually needs about 3mm further from 12th fret to saddle than nut to 12th fret
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Sam looks like you have enough adjustment in the bridge. I've never used a wrap around bridge but see the screws can push it back or forward more. The heavy E string usually needs about 3mm further from 12th fret to saddle than nut to 12th fret
Sam just saw your last reply, yes I'd do that shim the gap and don't mess with the intonation length. If you do a good job of the shim then you should be able to not put the pickguard on
The gap is supposed to be there, it is for the pickguard to slip underneath.
Not that gap. The one down in the pocket itself. The neck doesn't touch the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by keloooe
Attachment 4614
OHHHHHHH I see now!!!! I reckon it is from the break angle, if you plan to mod the pickguard it can hide it nicely!
I can hide it, but I was more concerned about the lack of contact in the set neck. Both for strength and resonance.
Picked up some blackwood veneer (the leftovers will be useful for something one day) and will make a shim to fill the gap.
Good choice with soapbars on the JR, much better than dogears imo. I'm planning to convert the stock dogear pup into a soapbar for mine.
Lots of options for wiring, but adding a 3-way toggle between the vol and tone is probably the best choice (you could add some push/pull shenanigans if you want). Another alternative would be vol, tone and balance, but the balance could suck away some of your precious highs. It's probably better to have a physical switch for the pickup selection where possible.
So working on making a wedge for the gap. It turns out that if put more than just a single piece of veneer in there it pushes the neck out of the socket. So the gap isn't as big as it looks.
Turns out there's enough room either side of the neck to slide a piece of veneer too.
Perhaps we'll just call this space for the glue to go in?
Sam what is the distance of the gap with no veneer inserted and the heel pushed flush into the neck pocket ?
If its about 1mm or less I agree glue will fill this gap.
If it's more then you need to sand the veneer in a wedge shape so it fits better and doesn't push the neck away from the pocket
It looks bigger, but seems I can only fit one piece of <1mm veneer in there before the gap fills up. I think it must taper off pretty quickly. Will do some more experimentation.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Definitely less than 1mm gap either side of the neck pocket, can only fit one piece of the veneer in there with the neck pushed to the other side.