ES-1GL (newbie build!)

Adam, if it is the same as mine - the tail piece holes are square, so it is fine, but the bridge is drilled for a right hander.
You can see the top hole just under the top of the floating bridge

Hey Stan, yes, I can see it now, it is clearly drilled for a right hander. I was looking at the photos from a right hand perspective.

For what it's worth, we did let the factory know about this issue and the next lot of left hand ES-1G kits will be drilled correctly.

Adam...yeah I did check it before I started plugging, but even if it were drilled right, I think I would have gone with this style anyway. I like the trapeze style and rosewood bridge better anyway!

Question though...once I get the finish completed (I'm hoping this weekend), is it better to get the hardware and electronics done first, or glue the neck in? I've watched your tutorial on how to glue a neck, as well as others on youtube...you're the only one I've seen that puts the strings on to make sure the neck is aligned properly...the rest really just throw it on and glue it, or at the most, measure from the nut to the 12th fret, and then from the 12th fret to the bridge. (how do I do that on a floating bridge?)

I'll be honest, I'm having a bit of anxiety on gluing the neck in place...seems like that would be a hard one to recover from!

You need to get the neck on and aligned otherwise you may find that the neck isnt on straight and the strings will 'fall off" the fretboard when you try to fret a note.
Since you are using a floating bridge, if you YOUTUBE intonating a floating bridge, there are some good videos there on how it is done.

While I'm here, before you glue the neck in, please check the height of the floating bridge that the saddles will be above the soundboard of the guitar when in position with the saddles/ bridge fully wound down so that the metal of the saddle is touching the rosewood base. Compare this height with the supplied bridge. You want to be sure that there isn't a difference or that you can easily manipulate the floating bridge to operate in the same range as the supplied bridge. If this is not the case then you may have to reduce or build up your floating bridge or you will not be able to get your 'action' right because the strings are too high off the fretboard or too low off the fretboard ( in the latter case, they are ON the fretboard and you are unable to raise them off!)

Finally getting back to this...got the final finish completed, top coat done, binding meticulously scraped (ROYAL pain in the @$$....)

Neck is glued and clamped as of 10 minutes ago.

Pickups upgraded to Seymour Duncan Jazz Model Sh-2...will put nickel covers on it.

All I really have left is the electronics..."all"...this is going to get interesting.

Anyone know a good shrink?


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...nal-finish.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...neck-glued.jpg

looks great, hope mine comes up as good!

Looking fantastic!
If you use the aquarium pipe method to install the wiring you'll only need therapy for a month. Highly recommended.

Cheers,
Gav.

Quote:

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/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from gavinturner on February 1, 2014, 09:38
Looking fantastic!
If you use the aquarium pipe method to install the wiring you'll only need therapy for a month. Highly recommended.

Cheers,
Gav.

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Do you have a favourite, Gav?
;-)

Got the wiring and pots soldered...I think I got it right...(I hope!)

Though, I think I have the switch wired backward to the pots...

the picture is kind of hard to see, but does anyone see any glaring mistakes in how it's wired??

What's the best way to test this before I go put it in the body?


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...wm3-wiring.jpg