GS-1sf 1st build - Cocoa

I have a feeling you'll need much wider, shorter screws (with thread all the way up to the head) for the two screw holes on the top. Unless there's a centre block underneath the top at the back to screw into (rather than a smaller one just for the triangular tailpiece and strap pin), you've only got the thickness of the ply for the screw to get a purchase. Certainly the long screw supplied looks more like it should be holding the rear of the Bigsby tailpiece on, along with the strap button (though I may be wrong).

I'm sure other people have drilled pilot holes for the screws on the top, then put string through and pulled that out an f-hole. Then they've made some small wooden blocks with holes in the middle, pushed the string through and knotted it, then stuck epoxy glue on the top of the block, pulled it back inside the body with the string and tied a weight to the string to keep it under tension and hold the block against the underside of the top until the epoxy sets. Once dry, remove the string, extend the pilot hole through the block and then you've got a lot more for a screw to get a grip on and not pull out.

Yeah I was thinking all that. There’s literally about 5mm of ply (approx) and the thread stops way short. We have a tonne of different screws here (although they are all Ali - not brass coloured bah) so I’ll dig through them. The epoxy sounds like a great - although convoluted solution. It would be good to see what screws are on a gretsch.

I gave up this afternoon on everything as the bezels for the pickups I ordered are wrong as they are not English style ones... no big deal. Returned those and waiting for correct ones.

Tried to get a centre mark today - the neck is quite tight and doesn’t move (I’m still pleased with the fit) but i have placed a clamp on it loosely. But I’m just not confident with my measuring to get the centremark today. Saw a good video using a piece of string to get a centreline so that’s a plan tomorrow and I’ll put a small screw in the tailpiece once I’m confident it’s in the right place and go from there.

There is a lot of movement and play in every part of the bigsby so I guess it’s a case of making sure everything’s as true as it can be....

Felt nervous about everything today. :(


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Ok so after my doubts about myself and everything yesterday I took the plunge on a couple of things.

I’d been contemplating whether the painting etc would be easier with or without setting the neck. I decided that actually the measuring of everything with the bigsby would be easier with the neck set... painting wouldn’t be an issue as I’d just be masking everything up.

I re measured the centreline using the string method - works ok but there is SO much play in different parts of the bigsby to be really sure. I measured the centreline a few times and even got one of our build guys to double check it with me (this is with the neck pushed in but not glued) and we both agreed that the centre line was actually almost bang on where the veneers meet on the bottom of the body (I was a little stunned) so I marked and loosely screwed the bigsby in with one screw and re checked it.

As I say. There is so much play in the hinge that it was pretty hard to get an accurate measurment
With string. I don’t think it will be far off and if anytning it will be the top holes that need to move.

As I still wasn’t sure about two things moving (the neck and the bigsby - and the bridge just held in with masking tape.) I thought I may as well set and glue the neck. So I did. It’s just sitting setting now.

The glue we use on the jukeboxes is awesome stuff. It’s wurth special fast drying glue! So should be fully set in an hour or two but I’m going to leave it at least 48hours before releasing.

In the paint front I’m not happy. I think I did two many coats of candy. I also tested the nitro clear coat and it’s just soft as!!! Oh well this is why we test.

I’m also not happy with the colour. More tests to follow. :) yay

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I have a feeling you'll need much wider, shorter screws (with thread all the way up to the head) for the two screw holes on the top. Unless there's a centre block underneath the top at the back to screw into (rather than a smaller one just for the triangular tailpiece and strap pin), you've only got the thickness of the ply for the screw to get a purchase. Certainly the long screw supplied looks more like it should be holding the rear of the Bigsby tailpiece on, along with the strap button (though I may be wrong).

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I rooted through the screw cabinets and found some shorter? Fatter screws that should work better. They are black which actually might work colour wise. They do feel short but they still go through the whole way so should be fine.

Yes the longer screws are fine for the bottom plate. (Is there a block there? I forgot to look before I glued the neck) but the shorter ones I found will be fine for the top

Thanks for the comments.



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Almost certain to be at least a small block. It's needed to help keep the two sides glued together at the back, otherwise there would only be a butt joint keeping them in place.

Too late now, but it's really not a good idea to use anything other than a non-waterproof woodworking glue for neck joints. If you ever need to take the neck off because you find it's at the wrong angle, then with the wrong glue, you can't.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Almost certain to be at least a small block. It's needed to help keep the two sides glued together at the back, otherwise there would only be a butt joint keeping them in place.

Too late now, but it's really not a good idea to use anything other than a non-waterproof woodworking glue for neck joints. If you ever need to take the neck off because you find it's at the wrong angle, then with the wrong glue, you can't.

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Eek. Well it is a water based wood working glue but I wouldnt like to try and get the neck off now.

Let’s hope it’s all ok. Finger crossed I guess. Thanks though.


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It’s wet and rippley - think I need to turn my pressure down a bit as I’m shooting with a 2.0 tip (I won’t when I do the real thing) but it looks sooooo much better.

I have a gold that I’m intercosting with clearcoat that I’ll wet sand then Kandy then clearcoat tonsee if it’s any different.

The gold flake on its own looks bonkers!! Is there a way to post video?


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Here's a photo I took of my GR1-SF of inside the body, when I was investigating how big the block behind the tailpiece might be. The block in the foreground (on the left) will be the support for the bridge posts, so the screws for the Bigby need to be wide, but not long, as they're only going through the top, into nothing.

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...-GR_1SF_15.jpg

With video, it's easy to upload to YouTube, then post the link here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Swanny

Here's a photo I took of my GR1-SF of inside the body, when I was investigating how big the block behind the tailpiece might be. The block in the foreground (on the left) will be the support for the bridge posts, so the screws for the Bigby need to be wide, but not long, as they're only going through the top, into nothing.

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...-GR_1SF_15.jpg

With video, it's easy to upload to YouTube, then post the link here.

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Brilliant. Thanks for this. I actually peeeked through an f hole and saw.


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Paint question. I’m loving the feel of the neck so might just stain this and oil this (I dunno I’m just not overly keen on laquered necks) I also want to stain the sides and back but I want the back and sides 2k clearcoated like the top will be.

Are most stains compatible with a 2k clearcoat? Can’t find any info.


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https://youtu.be/OmTvD4tPG8k

Video test.. showing the test panel of paint for the top.

Gold basecoat, Gold flake, rootbeer candy (1 coat one side 2 coats the other) then about 7 coats of clear... sprayed through the wrong tip gun so its TOO thick.. but it shows the idea.

OK Heres my bigsby problem on my test fit.

https://youtu.be/gAhjiX0AV40

I found the centrepoint on the guitar and marked the bottom. this is the position of the base plate of the bigsby. Drilled and screwed the strap nut in there. Ran the two E strings. Now to me to make things look straight (and to where ive marked the position of the bigsby using the centreline on the bigs itself I have to force the unit to the left. Im sure this will put strrain not only on the bigsby but the wood its into too... Is this usual? there is a lot of play in the hinge etc.. it might be something as simple as the bridge not being totally straight too.. held in with masking tape. Im pretty sure the neck is ok and the string seems to be running fine down the neck itself.. just ,,, another lack of confidence in my ability...

thoughts anyone?

Apart from the neck (which would be a pain in the arse!!!) How fixable are alignment issue once it comes to setup..?

All your videos come up as 'unavailable'. Have you set them as private?

Yes. I’ll change that. Sorry. Obviously I can’t see.


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Ok try now. I just didn’t want them clogging up any channels or anything but didn’t think being private would be a problem.


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I can see them now.

When you ran the two E strings, were they both up to correct pitch? Even if they were, they will undoubtedly have slightly different tensions which will always pull the tailpiece to one side or the other. You'd really need all the strings fitted and in tune to know the resultant overall string pull. It's unlikely ever to be a nice 50/50 balance on each side, so the two screws through the top will need to keep the tailpiece straight.

Sometimes it's easy to worry too much over these things. I'd get the tailpiece so that the strings are running parallel with the sides of the tailpiece, and mark the screw hole positions there.

Thanks Simon. You are beginning to be my voice of reason.


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Hi, How I found centre and positioned the tremolo.
With the neck in position and the bridge on it's posts I marked the centre at points down the fretboard and ran a wire down the centre of the neck (clamped at the nut). The wire ran through the centre of the bridge.
I marked the centre of the tremolo on the roller and down the plate to the back, and then I lined this up with the wire moving the tremolo around with its hinge plate against the back of the guitar until all points were in line.
Now installed, strings all in alignment and looking good.
I think this is how Bigsby tell you to do it.

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Originally Posted by Paolo

Hi, How I found centre and positioned the tremolo.
With the neck in position and the bridge on it's posts I marked the centre at points down the fretboard and ran a wire down the centre of the neck (clamped at the nut). The wire ran through the centre of the bridge.
I marked the centre of the tremolo on the roller and down the plate to the back, and then I lined this up with the wire moving the tremolo around with its hinge plate against the back of the guitar until all points were in line.
Now installed, strings all in alignment and looking good.
I think this is how Bigsby tell you to do it.

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Thanks. This is how I did the initial fitting of the tailpiece for the bigsby.

I’m sure it’s ok. But you know how it is with these kits... worrying about every little thing.

Thank you


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Polishing worry.

I’m waiting for stains to arrive (crimson guitars are waaay behind apparently so been waiting on these for over a week and a half now)

I left my test panels of flake for two weeks so thought I’d give them a bit of a flat back and a polish. I wet sanded a LOT with 800 to get the peel off. It had a lot of coats of clear on. And then when it was flat (in the place I was testing) I went to 1000 then 1500 then 2000 my worry is that none of this is making it shiny again. I even got some rubbing solituon and really went at it with a cloth.... am I just not going long enough? I’m doing this by hand. I’m just worried that I won’t get the shine on the clearcoats on the actual guitar and do I leave the clearcoat shiny but probably lightly ripples rather than ruining a clearcoat by not being able to polish it out.

The guitar is not like a tele where it’s flat either!!?

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2000 won't make it shiny, its the polishing compounds after that that will give it the shine. But if the finish is very hard, then you may have to go to a finer grit than 2000 to make the final polishing easier. Also, if the finish isn't properly cured, then the finish won't take a full shine. You also need to be careful of rubbing too hard for too long as it's easy for friction to build up a lot of heat, which softens the finish and you won't get a shine.

I'd say that P800 is too fine to get rid of bumps quickly and that I'd have used P240 until the finish was flat, then gone up the grades from that.

If the finish is really hard, then it may be worth getting and using a set of Micromesh pads or sheets before using a polishing compound. If you've gone up to P2000 or even P2500, then 3200 grade Micromesh should be your next step. This can be used wet. Carry on with the Micromesh up to 12000. You should see the finish start to shine at 8000, certainly it will be semi-gloss at 12000, which should make the polishing compound easier to use. Micromesh recommend sanding each grade as right angles to the previous one for best results.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

2000 won't make it shiny, its the polishing compounds after that that will give it the shine. But if the finish is very hard, then you may have to go to a finer grit than 2000 to make the final polishing easier. Also, if the finish isn't properly cured, then the finish won't take a full shine. You also need to be careful of rubbing too hard for too long as it's easy for friction to build up a lot of heat, which softens the finish and you won't get a shine.

I'd say that P800 is too fine to get rid of bumps quickly and that I'd have used P240 until the finish was flat, then gone up the grades from that.

If the finish is really hard, then it may be worth getting and using a set of Micromesh pads or sheets before using a polishing compound. If you've gone up to P2000 or even P2500, then 3200 grade Micromesh should be your next step. This can be used wet. Carry on with the Micromesh up to 12000. You should see the finish start to shine at 8000, certainly it will be semi-gloss at 12000, which should make the polishing compound easier to use. Micromesh recommend sanding each grade as right angles to the previous one for best results.

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Eek. Right!! Keep going then I guess!!! Thanks for all that.


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Let the soldering commence!


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I'd say that ground connection on the back of the main tone pot looks rather 'blobby' and may cause problems later. If the solder doesn't flow away smoothly over the top of the pot, rather than bunch itself up on top, then the joint wasn't hot enough to melt the solder properly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I'd say that ground connection on the back of the main tone pot looks rather 'blobby' and may cause problems later. If the solder doesn't flow away smoothly over the top of the pot, rather than bunch itself up on top, then the joint wasn't hot enough to melt the solder properly.

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Thanks for the tip. I’ll get the iron hotter and smooth it about. Especially when it comes to the bridge vol which seems to have EVERYTHING grounding to it.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BuffaloGhost

Thanks for the tip. I’ll get the iron hotter and smooth it about. Especially when it comes to the bridge vol which seems to have EVERYTHING grounding to it.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a8732fd868.jpgany better? I managed to get it really flat and smoothed out on the other pots



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It looks better, though there's still a slightly suspect bit in the middle. You don't have to attach everything to the same blob. I normally spread my connections out round the edge if I can.

I notice you've got two capacitors in series (this halves the capacitor value). Obviously by design, but it wont take much for the middle connection to touch the pot casing and ground itself so you revert to the full single capacitor value. A bit of heat shrink tubing over the two soldered legs will prevent that happening, otherwise some insulating tape will work (though it tends to fall off over time but is better than nothing).

Thanks. I did spread it about a bit more on the other capacitors. Might just re do this one. I’ve had to join some wires together on my pickups as the wires weren’t long enough too so I’ve got some heat shrinking to do on those.

I did think this about the capacitors so made sure they were also bent away from the pot but I’ll heatshrink those too

Thanks again


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About your metal flake - Generally when you paint something with metal flake you need to do at least 2 sessions of clearcoat. The last thing I flaked I cleared it about 6 times but it was very coarse flake. I usually wait a couple days in between clear sessions to allow it to fully shrink, otherwise it can sometimes defeat the purpose of adding extra clear sessions. Make sure you sand it as flat as possible between sessions and it will come out like glass 👍🏻

Thanks. This is what I’d done before when I’ve done flake but I was very Harvey with a clearcoat on this one and I’d never really gone the entire polishing route. Time will tell but it’s sooo flat now I think another clearcoat would sort this out but I was wondering if it could be polished out. Which it can. Just time and patience


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BuffaloGhost

Thanks. This is what I’d done before when I’ve done flake but I was very Harvey with a clearcoat on this one and I’d never really gone the entire polishing route. Time will tell but it’s sooo flat now I think another clearcoat would sort this out but I was wondering if it could be polished out. Which it can. Just time and patience


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Think of it as cheap insurance, Just imagine getting your guitar 95% there with the polishing and burn through the clear. Save yourself the heartache ;)

:) I'll be doing thinner coats on the actual guitar. i was spraying clear through my .2 tip (used for flake) as it was all I had at the time. I might try another couple of clearcoats on this and see what it looks like..

Sanded back and recoated the flake and it’s looking loads better. Starting with stains for the back and sides.

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Not happy with the stains from crimson. Think I’m gonna use the work stains as I can spray them. Easier and cleaner.

In other news I tested the wiring and it was fine first time (get me!!) so I’ve tidied it all up and labelled it.

I know it looks like I’m grounding to the tail piece. I’m not. It’s going on the bridge. Just drew the thing wrong

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I'd suggest you look at what that last photo is telling you. You've got a great thick bunch of wires running right along the middle of the F-hole and they'll be very visible. You probably won't want that! You'll need some way of pulling the wires to one side. Maybe by re-doing the tie-wraps around the pickup area and the volume pots you can get it to sit clear of the F-hole.

Also, whilst you might be able to do it, it's going to be a lot easier to pass the bridge grounding wire into the guitar from the top and down through the hole into the body, rather than try and poke it up via the F-hole access. Or at least pass a thin wire down, solder it to the end of your existing ground wire so that you can then pull it up through the hole. Although it means some in-situ soldering with the pots outside the body, passing the bridge post grounding wire down from the top is a lot easier!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I'd suggest you look at what that last photo is telling you. You've got a great thick bunch of wires running right along the middle of the F-hole and they'll be very visible. You probably won't want that! You'll need some way of pulling the wires to one side. Maybe by re-doing the tie-wraps around the pickup area and the volume pots you can get it to sit clear of the F-hole.

Also, whilst you might be able to do it, it's going to be a lot easier to pass the bridge grounding wire into the guitar from the top and down through the hole into the body, rather than try and poke it up via the F-hole access. Or at least pass a thin wire down, solder it to the end of your existing ground wire so that you can then pull it up through the hole. Although it means some in-situ soldering with the pots outside the body, passing the bridge post grounding wire down from the top is a lot easier!

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Thanks for the bridge tip. I shall look into that. I did do a quick test fit and the wires sit differently when the pickups are the right way up. i've left a lot of slack on the pickup end of the wires and I can push it down so the wiring sits away from the F holes.. but thanks for pointing it out.

Don't forget that when playing it, gravity will pull the cables downwards, despite being able to pull the cables to one side when flat. Just don't want you to have to remove and adjust the wiring after it's installed!

good point. i shall bear this in mind.. thanks

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First coats of red sapele stain going on. Jeez it’s hard to hold and stain at the same time. Really uneven at the moment but allowing to dry then some more coats


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Sides looking more like it. Added a touch of walnut to tone down the red a little.

Next stop is to seal it which will show me where I cocked up (I hope not) then I can blow in some darker areas to add a tiny burst and age it all a little.

The stain was marked the binding somewhat so I’ll need to clean all this prior to the satin clearcoats.

Pleased so far.


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