Yes very smart, will take my time and follow your advice, I definately want everything fitting. The upside is that I will probably cut a custom pick guard, dont know yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
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Yes very smart, will take my time and follow your advice, I definately want everything fitting. The upside is that I will probably cut a custom pick guard, dont know yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Well got round to do some routing, was a breeze as i didnt have to remove much.
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Not using this scratchplate just using it as a guide, the one i wanted wasnt in stock so its on backorder.
What pickguard are you going for? I feel like you will need something just right to compliment the fancy hardware. The black is too plain, but if it has a different pattern or is too overtly patterned will it clash with or detract from the hardware?
I agree 100%. Im not quite sure yet will hafta check out online. The one that comes with the kit is a black pearloid. Wanna see what that will look like first. Might be too much....Hafta wait till Adam sends it to me on back order if he hasnt forgotten...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Black one ply might work out best as anything plain black doesn't seem to attract your attention so much and always handy as a backdrop for other things you wish to highlight. Alternatively bright chrome or mirror look would work well with chrome bits & pieces.
Yea good choices. Now i have to make up my mind on white pearl or metallic black for the body colour. Asked my better half what she thought and she said dont make it look too busy esp seeing as the controls are the highlight. Smart girl is that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Pearl white gets my vote.
advice taken into account and stored for further contemplation.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
White pearloid is preferable to black pearloid in my book.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
the 'black' is mainly grey and as such doesn't make for a good contrast with other colours.
Other than various shades of grey (see how I avoided a cliche there?).
cheers, Mark.
Haha good one mate. Yea ive heard that pearl over black makes it all washed out. A couple of alternatives are straight metallic black or a black clear over a silver base coat, not too flash just subtle.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
So after a huge break in getting itchy fingers again. Took the guitar out this morning and did a quick check of all the gear.
Yes I know it's a bit late to check stuff as this should of been done as soon as I had received it but I was soo excited that I forgot the mock build.
So I'm checking the neck and it's straight when fitted although the bridge screws are adjusted right up on one side. But it looks like the neck, body end, dips down on one side where it meets the body cavity.
Could someone please do a check for me and see if it's going to cause a problem for me.
Thanks heaps in advance guys.
Ps I can get the strings to sit ok but I have to adjust the bridge right up on one side.
Pics attached
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Laid the neck on a flat surface and put a steel ruler up against each side. Here's the pics. The neck heel is crooked.
So what do i do now, can it be fixed guys?
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Ooh! That's not right is it? So you have strung it? You mention the bridge adjustment. And the action is off? What does it look like when you have the heel in the body cavity?
I'd email Adam at Pitbull and see what he says
Yes I've strung it, just the 2 e strings. To get the right action I have to raise the bridge adjusting screws to their fullest just to clear the frets while the upper e string is ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
When its sitting in the body it looks ok but I think it's the heel where all the problems are. One side is larger than the other, as the pics show.
Might send Adam this link.
Just emailed Adam. Hope he gets it .
I'd guess it would need to be replaced, although you could paint the heel and then stick some sand paper down on a flat surface and sand the heel flat it you were patient enough. The paint would show if you were cutting into the good side of the heel. A bench mounted disc or belt sander would probably be easier too. But I'd wait for Adam to get back to you!
But given how far that appears out, by the time you got it parallel top to bottom then you may have introduced an angle to the sides, relative to the Pocket walls.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
I'm not sure there is any saving that one TBH, its tough to tell if it's the heel out of square or a fault in the board or even the top of the neck being out of parallel to the bottom of the heel.
If the top of the neck is square and parallel to the heel base then potentially you could re-board it, but is it worth the effort?
Guess it's best to see what Adam comes back with.
Adam got back to me fast and said he would replace it. Awesome cos I don't think I could of fixed it by myself. Thanks guys.
All good mate! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroburner1000
The more I thought about it the knottier potential solutions became. It would be a one shot deal to attempt a fix, as a slip in the fixing may have been curtains for it anyway.
Unreal. Agreed, it would be a hard fix. I wonder how this can happen when these things are Cnc machined, I presume, they should all be the same dimensions..........
I’m not so sure they are CNC produced, more likely routed by hand to existing trmplates.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Hypothetically, what would you do FW? pull the frets and re-radius? or chop the fretboard off and replace it?Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Something like that Andy, if the board is only a wee bit cockeyed, then you might get away with it. If it’s a long way out, then strip and replace.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
If the neck under the board is on the incline though it’s a doorstop, I’m not sure you could true it up without striking other issues with neck width, TRC angles and depths, potential relative angle issues with the headstock also.
The all maple construction on this one kind of obscures the end of the neck so you can’t quite see whats going on at the end there. The heel looks square enough , but I can’t quite make out where neck and fretboard join.
EDIT: The more I look at it the more I am convinced it’s an issue with a lopsided board, rather than the actual neck itself. Hard to tell with the end on shot, unless nitro sands that up some to see the grain differentiation. It would be interesting to see how it looks from the other end, or just a straight Sid on shot of each side of it.
Yeah, I've always dreaded working on the heel in case I go too far.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I wonder if the wood is twisted before it goes in the machine?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
When I get 5 I'll post some more, like to see what you guys think.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
From what Adam has said, this would seem to be the case. It's a shame, as it's an area that would really benefit from CNC machining.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
But I assume CNC means less jobs for the workers and quite a heavy investment for each CNC machine, so in China where labour is (relatively) cheap, the old ways will continue for some time.
After many months of absence im back.
Its bee a bad ride but im through the worst of it. 2 more cases of cancer in the family, one fatal.
Picked up the tele the other day and decided id better get into it. Wanted my head in a better space.
Been doing some refining on my jaguar and S.G. they both had some issues.
So back to the neck issue.
I received a replacement neck but it was the wrong size, so after receiving another i returned the other two.
This second neck fits perfect.
Decided to shape the neck and settled on copying the horn curves of the tele body.
Will upload pics in a while. Its too hard on a phone.
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btw its good to be back!
Update.... Heading to Hamilton on sunday to catch up with my luthier bro in law. He is going to show me how to replace the black frett markers with white pearloid ones.
Wish me luck...lol
Good to see you back Nitro, sorry to hear about the issues with the big C.
Cheers mate, appreciate it.
Really sorry to hear about the bad news, Nitro. Hope things don't get any worse for you.
Personally, I'd stick with black dots. To me, Pearloid are fine on rosewood/ebony boards, but on a maple board are very hard to see. I've just finished replacing the pearloid markers on a Fender Lite Ash Tele board with black ones (badly) just because of that fact.
So at the very least, I'd suggest a darker, rather than lighter, style of pearloid.
Thanks Simon. Great advice b.t.w. but im staining the neck jet black, so you can see why the black frett markers have to go.
Aha! Indeed, it's then a wise choice.
Im glad you agree, but keep the good advice coming, i appreciate it mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
So, slowly does it. Fret markers are removed, now i will check to see if the black stain will permanently affect the new white dots so ill know to either put them in first or after i stain.
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Hard choice. You'll want to sand the top of the neck once the dots are installed to get it flat. but that may make the board look patchy if it removes some of the stain.
Test a dot with the stain? Or get it flat, mask the dots with a liquid masking compound and then stain?
The latter sounds like the way to go. Will have heaps of time to test in the coming months locked in hey.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Cant believe its been a year since i was on here. Plenty of water under the bridge.
Now have colours sorted. Im going for black with some white pearl highlights. Want a mean sophisticated look. But then again i might change my mind again.
Have bought the paint so im ready to go.
Spent last night sorting out my SG-1. Aweful buzzing through the amp.
You guessed it, bridge earth had been forgotten. So took it all to pieces, fixed the problem. Its now back together again with slightly heavier strings, 11 gauge as i want it for a banger...lol.
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So will start to paint the body in the next couple of weeks. Btw hi to all the crew, at least those that are still here. Cheers.