I'm known for doing dumb things, so keeping the vibe alive.
Going to blend the heel and body, 50 / 50 if it will look better or stuff up a nice guitar.
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I'm known for doing dumb things, so keeping the vibe alive.
Going to blend the heel and body, 50 / 50 if it will look better or stuff up a nice guitar.
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Attachment 26136
I have done a similar thing on my EXA-1
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2f8db2be7.jpg
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Interesting, I "was" going to flow in a rounded style between the two original kit parts. Now I must also consider your squaring off look. That looks nice in your photo.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
If time allows, tomorrow I'll celebrate ANZAC day with a few beers and a soldering iron :)
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Also toying with headstock shapes, this in leading the race but will live with the penciled lines for a few days.
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Theres an angle from the base of the cutaway across the heel to help with playability up high (like I play that high anyway🤣) I think it was about 3-4 degrees or there about.Quote:
Originally Posted by cork sniffer
If FrankenWashie works in the "Franken Lab" Cork Sniffer has decide he works in the "Sniffery" ;)
So I had an hour in the Sniffery today and recessed the inspection cover.
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Also did some sanding and filling from yesterdays blending of heel to body.
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The back and sides will be gloss black so I'm a hoping I'll get away with that.
Nice work in the sniffery. The control cover looks good, so much better than just sat on top ex factory.
It's great fun watching you two build and discuss these.
You were the first there (thanks for showing yours) but as suggested it's a must for a tidy job.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I don't (yet) have a router so free handed it with my Dremel, it was perspiration time.
The back will be black, with the black cover it will look like a great fit regardless of a thou here and there ;)
That looks unreal. Nice work with the blended joint, I think it will really make it look pro.
Wondering how it will tie in with top & bottom binding on the body?
Not sure what you mean, the rear binding not going all of the way around the back, or, the black and red colours with white binding?Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Either way I'll give it a go and always be open to change. I could even paint black over the rear binding.
Bottom line, I plan on getting it playing in raw condition, disassemble and then finish so I have plenty of time to ruminate.
Yes will go this way as well, I think this is what is meant to happen..Quote:
Originally Posted by cork sniffer
Finally found time to put some wire between the upgraded DiMarzio pots.
I'm a bit heavy handed in this area but when connected to an amp and a pickup joined to the two different circuits it passed the tap test with flying colours. Some insulating to prevent unwanted earthing and it will be time to string up and see how the neck and body relate to each other, actually I know the action is WAY too high but that's next weeks problem :rolleyes:
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As planned I wanted this kit to make acoustic and electric noise before any attempt to finish. It now breathes and I'm very pleased with the sound. I say sound rather than tone at this early stage. Nothing is really screwed up yet I haven't even cut the bridge grooves. I'm also glad I assembled before paint as I'm not so sure now, small possibility I may run with a natural timber look. I'm liking what I see, will live with it for a couple of days.
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Agreed, I'd be very tempted to oil it and leave it like that. Looks unreal from here!
Very nice work Corksniffer, Very nice indeed.
In the light of a new day I'm feeling a natural timber look more and more :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Cheers mate, it's the work from now on that will make it nice or not. Hope I don't stuff it up :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
When I mentioned the paint or timber option to my son he said (jokingly) "heavy relic", he's now out of the family ;)
I'm always a fan of a natural look when you have a nice bit of timber like that.
It wasn't hard but you convinced me to use Tru-Oil on the body front.
Problem now arises, I have a skim of timber filler at the neck joint that won't work with a see through finish so I'm thinking ... Black enamel sides and neck (possibly back or Tru-Oil on the back?).
The question is if I paint and cut back the black sides once hard, can I Tru-Oil over the front, binding and black enamel? This should smooth out the edge between binding and black enamel but retain a visual sharp edge?
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Well that's a head scratcher and no mistake. Not sure about TO over Enamel.
Thanks for comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Been told elsewhere not to Tru-Oil over enamel, probably will take OK but dull the finish.
Suggested I black enamel first, allow time to harden then mask off and Tru-Oil up to but not over the paint.
Open for more comment???
I'd recommend a method test first on some scrap and that will validate/invalidate your plan. Is it possible to do the clear in an enamel or an enamel safe clear topcoat?
Found a little build time today. Cut a shape into the headstock and decided to pick up on the chrome body look with a polished alloy veneer headstock. I'm not sure but think once tuners are fitted and a custom logo breaking it up a bit it may be OK. Never seen such before, it's a big world and I've been sheltered :-( I have a test piece glued and clamped just now, if it takes I MAY fix it tomorrow.
Opinions welcome, it isn't too late to bin the idea.
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Mock up with some of the chrome bits to get the vibe.
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I reckon that would look pretty special actually. Don't think I'ver seen anything like it before.
The glued up test piece worked great ...
I made the call early today to go this way, by late afternoon the tuners were screwed on :-). Still a lot of Tru-Oil and paint in front of me but another step hopefully in the right direction.
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The headstock looks great! keep up the great work mate.
Thanks. My wife took one look at the headstock and said "I think I'll have this one". Bummer :-(Quote:
Originally Posted by Airwick
Yep, that is hot! Nice work there mate!
Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Time to do all of the stuff we think of is sooo short :-(
You wouldn't believe how many years I've been renovating this house, ask my long suffering wife. Haaa haaa
You could use the feast Watson black stain, which is almost opaque and would hide the joints, and then use the finish of choice over the top of this and the front. The stain is an alcohol stain so should completely dry off leaving no problem residue.
Black Japan is slightly more see through so you would see some timber finish, but would still hide the filler I'd have thought.
Great looking guitar so far, well done!
A lot to think about there. Always prepared to change direction. Will sleep on your suggestions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
I used the black stain on the back of the RC4 and on the SV1 kits, the pics are in my signature
Thanks, I may try a similar amount of timber filler on some scrap and test your suggestion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
Some decisions made and a little more movement, leading to yet another question.
Sides and neck Painted black (oil based enamel) 1,500 grit wet sanded back, now smooth but dull finish.
Do I spray poly over smooth dull black finish hoping for a nice deep black shine result?
Or do I apply another shiny coat of black then without sanding apply the poly?
The back will also be painted before poly (colour TBA).
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The vegemite sandwich look. I like it and you have done a great job on the neck heel mod.
Cheers.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
I'm thinking (always subject to change) natural timber (poly) on front and possibly for some life a deep purple on the back BUT still looking for the answer to today's question.
Never spray or paint any gloss finish without sanding dull inbetween coats as the new layer will have nothing to grip to and will eventually delaminate. If the black has had enough coats and is nice and solid then yes spray poly straight on but ALWAYS DO SAMPLE TESTS FIRST on scraps if possible not the guitar.Quote:
Originally Posted by cork sniffer
Thanks for that advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by nitroburner1000
The job can now move forward :-)
Actually it's been taking two steps forward and one backward etc for the last few days. I've had an "Oh sh*t" but correcting measures are in hand. I'll post about such this week once it's all under control.