Attachment 20875all dried very good gave it at wet sand with 400 grit and a coat of naughty oil all over
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Attachment 20875all dried very good gave it at wet sand with 400 grit and a coat of naughty oil all over
Looking sweet as Adam.
Attachment 209213rd coat of oil
Attachment 20922ckeck out the face in the quilted grain
Dude! There's aliens in your guitar!
Attachment 20959Attachment 20960Attachment 20961 bit of a mock build tonight to see what its going to look like, its going to look nice when all finished
nice one Barnsey its getting a nice gloss to it. Is the top natural ?
These beasts always look amazing with a light/natural stain on the quilt. Awesome.
I really like the look of the timber bridge, but haven't been adle to find a build that used it on the forum, does it float on top or do i glue it when i get the stings on and the intonation right ?
yeah I think string tension will hold the bridge in place, don't glue it in case you need to remove it
It's possible to pin or glue a wood base floating bridge once everything is settled and you've intonated, if you really want to. Of course, you have to allow for the glue with the finish or do a Setzer and pin it instead. But, permanent is permanent.
Attachment 20962 4 coats of oil all over the body one each night this week
I'd leave the bridge unpinned/glued to start with and see how you get on. You can then try different string gauges. Once you settle on a gauge, then that would be the time to pin the bridge.
Brian Setzer does pin his floating bridge, but then the top part of his is a metal Tune-O-Matic type, so he's still got intonation adjustment. Swapping to that type of bridge could be an option if you don't think you'll stick to just one string gauge (or manufacturer).
Exac'ary.
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Hi AB
I'm building one at present (very slowly) and will not be glueing mine for a long while.
As Simon said I'll be trying many different ways before settling to one position. Then it will only be a very light application of glue.
Ps. Loving your finish. I'm going for a feast Watson mahogany colour on the back with all natural face, neck and headstock.
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Only the steel cores of the wound strings would respond to the magnets in the pickups, so the bass strings would be a lot quieter than with an electric set. You can of course try and adjust adjust the pole pieces on the pickups to get a balanced volume (never done this so don't know by how much the screw poles would have to stick up), but effectively you would be moving the pickup further away from the top three strings, so the overall output would be a lot quieter than if you used electric strings. Although you can use a clean boost or compressor pedal to raise the overall output, the tone from the top three strings would be a lot softer than before.
However, the differences in tone would be interesting to hear. Maybe try it out with a cheap set of acoustic strings first?
Attachment 21006trussrod cover
:eek: ooo! cool idea!
Attachment 21007Attachment 21008
1200 grit wet sand and another coat of oil
delicious!
That's so beautiful.
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Attachment 21022
That's 9 coats of t/o , not sure how many i should do.
I was thinking i will thin the oil out and do 3 more really thin coats with light wet sand between
It's always a compromise between trying to keep the coat thin (for best acoustic properties), providing long term protection for the top without the finish wearing through too easily, and how flat and shiny you want the finish to be.
You've been sanding as you apply the coats, so you won't have a full 9 coats depth. Some people here have done over 30 TO coats - but maybe started out with rougher wood to try and make smooth.
It's certainly looking very good in the photos. But only you know exactly how it looks and feels close up.
I'd certainly thin the oil out for the final few coats. It should reduce the surface tension and help it to fill the valleys in the finish rather than tending to following the contours. Also, maybe do the top and back one side at a time and keep them flat whilst drying, so that gravity helps as much as possible in levelling the finish.
I usually aim for around 20+ Tru-oiil coats, 10 full strength and then 10 at 50/50 with white spiriits. If you're wet sanding after every coat then you're gettng minimal build up of thickness, so more would be better.
Thanks guys, ive only done 2 sands with 1200 grit one at coat 5 and 9 and i layed it on fairly thick . I thought the t/o was oil based not spirit based
It is, but white spirit will still thin it and evaporate away.
... and not swell the wood like a normal water 'wet' sand will.
Thanks guys
Attachment 21064Attachment 21065
Did some dt wax on the fret board tonight and it has come up sweet, plus a thinned out coat of oil, i think i will only need a lambswool pad to buff its that shiny and smooth, another 2 or 3 coats and it will look like glass.
The photos dont really show the quilted maple, as you walk around it the pattern changes to watch it become more pronounced after each coat ita hard to describe
As per Weirdy I'd go 20+ coats of tru oil. You'll just know when enough is enough it will suddenly start looking nice and glassy with some depth to it (if that's the look you are going for)
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Thanks franken