Yep, , for the neck pup, assume i will need to drill a tunnel from the rear towards neck for wiring? and also read about needing an earth to the bridge from pots, that sound right?Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
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Yep, , for the neck pup, assume i will need to drill a tunnel from the rear towards neck for wiring? and also read about needing an earth to the bridge from pots, that sound right?Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
yeah Guvna you probably will get away with a long drill bit between neck and bridge pup cavities. You need to work out if the control cavity will have a plate ontop (top cavity) or rear cavity with a cover. All you need to do is drill a shallow angled hole under the bridge plate to the bridge pup cavity and run an earth wire to make contact with the bridge plate then run that to a common earth point, usually back of volume pot
Yes, you need to decide where your controls are going to go. Do you stick with just a volume or do you want a tone knob as well? With two pickups you'll either need a selector switch or a blend knob (which involves using a stacked pot, which will be deeper than a standard pot).
I'm just wondering now about how thick your plank is. It's going to need to be a certain thickness to accommodate the pickups and controls. You'll probably need 38-40mm to get it thick enough for control cavities without paper thin tops (or bottoms) to them (depending on your control routing plans).
As shown, you'll need to rear rout for the pickup wiring. Easy enough to do and it's going to be hidden most of the time. Otherwise if you top rout, you'll need a pickguard of some sort.
I'd bring the headstock in a bit. I know you won't be using a trem on it, but even so, the straighter the stings run over the nut, the more solid the tuning will be. At the moment the strings will be fairly splayed out, rather like a Flying V headstock, but if you can arrange the headstock so that the tuning posts are in-line or almost in line with the nut slots, then there will be minimal sideways force on the strings, which can cause them to stick/grab in the nut and lead to tuning problems.
Thanks Simon, all good advice. specially re the headstock / tuning thoughts.
my plank was 47 mm before sanding off the paint so should still be plenty. at this stage the plan is to have volume/tone pots behind the bridge ( so top cavity with a plate similar to tele bridge plate) and a switch next to bridge on the treble side. the jack will be either same side as switch or possibly on the small flat part at the very rear, waiting to see how that might work out.
It may be possible to drill a core hole from the very rear through to the neck pup and run the wiring through without a cavity between the pups and maybe this core hole could then accomadate the jack, i dunno, im winging it as i go
You can get long auger bits of a suitable size from an unmentionable shed, care needs to be taken because they can run off course quite easily but they are the tool for the job
hi again,
received a few more parts in mail today (big thanks to Dedman)
tuners ,pots and 2 humbuckers,
previously got a tele bridge plus 2 pups from Dk too.
So, plan is to use tele bridge + pup (DK) an tuners/ pots from (Dedman).
could it be possible to use the humbucker (Dedman) as the neck pup? or stick wit tele? i reckon both could work, but is there any pros/cons and or experienced opinions?
just asking before the timber gets cut up. no real biggy either way as its first build and learnin as i go so all good experience.
interested in feedback re LapSteel
thanks Guvna
some tele's run a single coil in the bridge and bucker in the neck, so no reason it wont work.
Taking shape today, needs lots of filing and sanding to correct my amateur work with the jigsaw
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Can I just mention that the shape is rather reminiscent of something. Was this intentional? ;)
Looks great Guvna. Should clean up nicely
thanks for the loan wokka , Saved avatar for another day.Quote:
Originally Posted by Guvna19
changed to true colours -RedPine / RedBeer 'sparkling'
Gav - (my pommy cricket teammates pronounced it guv an it stuck - *#*#$ poms.....;) )
heres what im talkin bout
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzbA79ptJP8
haha fair enough Guvna, you are doing Coopers proud with your new avatar. I'll check out the JPJ lap steel vid !
EDIT that's an awesome version of When the Levee breaks !
It is a good version. With Paul Gilbert on guitar.
sure is Simon. The next video that came on was Nobody's Fault but Mine is a cracker too !https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YnkRTA8wtg#t=16.638538
A Manson lap steel. A guitar shop/makers in Exeter UK, where Matt Bellamy from Muse gets his guitars made.
[QUOTE=wokkaboy;135978]sure is Simon. The next video that came on was Nobody's Fault but Mine is a cracker too
Indeed , watched them both amongst others a number of times last night, JPJ goes allright
Bridge and neck pickups depth? (tele)
am i right to say the neck pup cavity shall be 0.625 inch / 15.85mm deep and the pup screws into the body?
whereas the bridge pup needs to be deeper , say 21.00mm and the pup kinda floats as its screwed to the bridge plate?
also what depth should i cut volume/ tone pots at?
hoping for advice as i have loaned a router for a few days
thanks in advance
gav
progressing slowly
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looking good Guvna and good to see a few empty beers ! Is the first pic how the red pine looked at the start ?
I routed tele control and pup cavities on Popeye's end grain axe yesterday so I'll measure the depths when I get home from work tonight. The control cavity needs to be deep enough for the pot shafts to fit through with some thread for the nut so there will only be 4-5mm of timber left. Bridge pup will be deeper than the neck pup. I'll post the depths about 7:30pm your time
my idea for fretboard, used a piece of leftover floating floorboard and cut slots freehand as a trial with a multitool, then rubbed in some black paint. i have several pieces of flooring leftover and will trial some filler and other colours at work with more precision, so far i think the fret line could work, not sure about the markers i tried by drilling, anyhow if all fails , no loss and try somthin else
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A coloured filler of some kind normally works, otherwise black epoxy (mask the board off first) and then sand it back flat.
Routed out pups today , hopefully all good for fitting.
Carved up the neck/head-stock underside a bit too... still not entirely happy with that yet, but getting there. (hope it's less arousing now, Simon?....just kidding :p )
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Happy Easter All
cheers Guvna
Cheers Simon, thanks for the good advice! , I've given up on the laminate flooring fret-board, all the edges of the cuts seem to puff up once wet with paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Laminate doesn't sand back at all being plastic like, and cant really be painted/stained or oiled either. was fun trying anyway. back to the drawing board
I started my laptop on the weekend. I'll have to start a thread for it once I take some piccies and the hardware turns up.
Which glue for fretboard?
local hardware has Weldtite (water-based / clean up) or Sellys Durabond ( poly Urethane - Acetone clean up ) anyone used either ?
Attachment 18808
I'd use a PVA glue if you ever think you might need to remove it (for whatever reason - e.g. you might drop something on it and want to replace it). Red label Titebond is the normal guitar building glue of choice, which is a PVA with some added resins.
A little more progress,
Cut the fret slots, going to stain it and fill slots with coloured epoxy or timber putty
Routed switch and pot hole and made an acrylic cover. need to round and polish edges
fashioned up the nut too my liking, need to polish also.
Ordered a black metal surround for the humbucker pup and a oval jack plate from china. still need to drill the jack hole.
cant wait to get some staining and clear coats on the red pine happening.
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Finally some colour and gloss. Fretboard will be coated a few more times with a lower gloss and body just has a couple of coats of nitro sanding sealer to date, that will be high gloss soon
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great job Guvna, I missed the previous updates. Are the fret slots filled with anything ? Love your fret slot cutting jig !
Your routes look really well done too. Can't wait to hear it crank. What scale length did it end up ?
hi Wokka,Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
fret has ebony timbermate and some paua shell inlayed. i stuffed up with the inlay - someone here will notice and point out - gonna driop the sheen down as its was too reflective to look at under internal lighting.
the routes took quite a few beers and a couple of practices on offcuts, done them freehand
scale is 24 inch.
i seen some of your axes on youtube yesty. all look good, like the brocky model - nice work
hows the CNC machine going?
Guv, this is coming up great!
Fret inlays look fine to me - at least in the pictures. You can simply sand the gloss varnish down or run over it with steel wool if you want a more satin finish to the board. All depends if you think you've got enough protection on the board so far.
Today in the Spray Booth
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glossy
looks excellent Guvna. I'm way impressed with your adjustable clamping system ! Spray booth looks professional too.
What you spraying with nitro, 2 pack ?
thanks Wokka,Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
helps working in a paint lab.
hey i wanna glue my fretboard on tonight with tite bond, how long will it need to be clamped for?
do you think ill need to use the pinning method to position prior to clamping or does it sound possible to just glue both sides and line it up by eye and add clamps. or will it slide around without pins?
Hey Guvna, I would leave the fingerboard overnight clamped. You shouldn't need to pin it in place. carefully apply some pressure on the clamps and make sure the offsets to the side of the body are equal. It will move around a bit as you tighten the clamps
I think it takes around 24 hours for the glue to fully harden, so if you remove the clamps after leaving it overnight, I wouldn't do anything to it straight away.
Things always seem to move around under clamp pressure, so if you can get someone to help hold things in place whilst tightening them up, it should help reduce your frustration levels.
Almost done!
Attachment 19538
since this mock build pic i have applied 4 more coats of nitro clear, added copper shielding , finished and tested wiring, cut slots in the nut, screwed in all components. last night i added strings and managed to snapp the G even before it was close to tuning tension - spewin.
I have to get more of the same strings as they suit the snut slots and iron out the string levels at the nut and bridge to my liking.
will post final pics soon
nice work Guv, very nice indeed