Barnseys ES1TL

Ok decided i was getting to fancy with the pin stripe and couldnt get anything the right colour so thanks gav. Onto the first finish coat Attachment 17494Attachment 17495
Next dilemma, last night after a few beers and admireing my guitar i decided to buy a pair of dirty fingers pickups (ebay is trouble on the beers) and some lovely see through blue tone and vol knobs ($ 4.50). So now im tossing up between black hardware or all crome and white pickup frames. Mabey i should try the beer thing again while watching the first finish coat dry

Those kit bodies are light and very resonant. Despite the centre block they still aren't anything like as solid as the Gibson's they are based on. There's a good chance that the Dirty Fingers would be too much for the guitar and that you'll get body resonance feedback at very low volumes. They really are high-output shred beasts (14k ohm DC resistance and 3 ceramic magnets - but slightly down on output compared to the originals). Of course it's relatively easy to change the pickups later and swap the DFs into something solid, but it will mean removing the wiring loom again.

As they are 4 wire, it might be a good thing to think about parallel wiring options for a slightly reduced output and cleaner tone.

Thanks simon , ive got a epiphone 333 with one only one of the df pickups in it and it wails like a screaming banshee. If i can get this guitar sound something like my 333 i will be stoked

Actually the 333 has only 1 vol control no tone control, can i skip wireing the tone controls as well and just put them in as dummys, only wireing the volume pots. Is that possible to do?

Yes, it's easy.

It's just that I was fettling someone else's ES-1 kit with Tonerider AC4 pickups in and they were powerful enough so that I couldn't get a clean tone with it through my amp, (unlike my Les Paul with Bare Knuckle Mules). And I couldn't turn it up very loud clean because the body just did its mid frequency uncontrollable howl. My old Gibson 335 was twice the weight with much more solid ply.

Chrome humbucker mounting rings can be found at Real Parts in either arched or flat..... http://www.realparts.com.au/hardware...ed-chrome.html
Attachment 17554
http://www.realparts.com.au/hardware...et-chrome.html
Attachment 17555

They look cool thanks waz

I'd like thank all the guys on here for your help especially the last few days with the finish coat blisters, there's rain focased every day for the next week so all i can do is a mock build and look at it. So beer making this weekend instead of guitar making.Attachment 17624
It looks great standing back but up close the top coat is going to take some work.
Thanks heaps

the mock looks great Adam. What style of beer are you brewing on the weekend ?

A pale ale with some redcara, and galaxy and moteka hops, nice summer beer

sounds tasty Adam, I've only heard of one of the three types of hops.

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

sounds tasty Adam, I've only heard of one of the three types of hops.

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Moteka is a kiwi one, redcara is a grain, got it down to 15 cents a schooner

Adam, I've completely missed this thread. Love your build so far! So now you have 2x awesome hobbies that can alternate between weather conditions, good stuff 😀

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

Hey Adam, I'll just pop over for a quick one shall I? :P

cheers,
Gav.

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Originally Posted by gavinturner

Hey Adam, I'll just pop over for a quick one shall I? :P

cheers,
Gav.

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No worries gav if i put a beer down on Sunday should be ready to drink in 3 weeks just in time to put the guitar together. Been to hot to make beer since December. You can come and do a taste test or 12 and check out if it sounds any good

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Originally Posted by Adam Barnes

Moteka is a kiwi one, redcara is a grain, got it down to 15 cents a schooner

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Motueka Hops? Choice Bro!

With the number of Home brewers on this site there ought to be a Brewing thread!

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Motueka Hops? Choice Bro!

With the number of Home brewers on this site there ought to be a Brewing thread!

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Not a bad idea? what about a brewery the naked guitar, you can make a beer and while its cooking put together a pitbull guitar over 6 weeks. You get a guitar and a couple of kegs of beer to take home, plus drink beer while doing the whole thing.
It wouldnt make any money but would be great fun

Sounds like a great idea but not sure much work other than sampling the brew would get done.

So the rain finally cleared on sat after almost 2 weeks the dt finnally dried and was able to wet sand back the scratches and blisters to do another coat all came up good only a few spots of orange peel in the finish so will wet sand and do one more coat once this last lot of rain clears next week. The dirty fingers pickups turned up along with some crome knobs Attachment 18059Attachment 18060

looks great Adam, first time I've seen the mock build. Would have like to see the headstock shaped. Are they your toy cars on the table ? haha

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

looks great Adam, first time I've seen the mock build. Would have like to see the headstock shaped. Are they your toy cars on the table ? haha

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Thanks wokka those matchbox cars are great fun to play with, i prefer the three either side headstock but it had a 6 in line so i just trimmed it down, not very admaginative but i dont like the big curved end on fenders. The rest is looking good, the diamond f holes and inlays are what i like about the guitar so i can put up with the head stock being a bit plane

Attachment 18132Attachment 18133i got sick of waiting for the rain and humidity to go away to do the final coat, so i decided to glue the neck in and fit the tuning pegs, bridge and pickups, ran fishing line on the 2 e strings and all lined up good, i had 313 mm nut to crown 12th fret and 314 to the bridge on the small e string. Hopefully ive got it right ? The wife wasnt too happy about me using the dining table as a work bench

Hey Adam, looks good. Your measurements are they from the crown of the 12th fret to the saddles and are the saddles wound all the way forward ? a G type scale is 24.75" = 628mm so 12th fret to high E saddle should be about half that ->314mm. The low E string will need to be further back to make up for the string thickness so it will end up being about 317-318mm, will the low E string saddle move that far back ?
Also just double check front side of nut (FB site) to 12th fret crown is about 313/314mm

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Hey Adam, looks good. Your measurements are they from the crown of the 12th fret to the saddles and are the saddles wound all the way forward ? a G type scale is 24.75" = 628mm so 12th fret to high E saddle should be about half that ->314mm. The low E string will need to be further back to make up for the string thickness so it will end up being about 317-318mm, will the low E string saddle move that far back ?
Also just double check front side of nut (FB site) to 12th fret crown is about 313/314mm

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Attachment 18134ive got 313 from face of nut to crown then 314 crown to bridge high e and 319 crown to bridge low e there's still a bit of movement both ways

cool that should be fine to intonate Adam

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

cool that should be fine to intonate Adam

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Thanks wokka ive been worried since i did it that i had it wrong

I really like how this is going to end up, something really different. Well done Adam!

Attachment 18146Attachment 18147to wet for work today so took the cramp of and put the to e strings on at a very light tension i think ive fluked it the gaps from strings to edge look the same both are 4mm at neck joint. The bridge probably needs to come up little bit. so far all good

really nice work mate, love the look of this guitar.

Such a great build - love the look with the natural sides

Thanks guys for the comments, ive run a wire to the bridge post to use as an earth, being a semi hollow do i shield the pickup cavities or is there no point if the wiring is not shielded ? and if i do shield does the shielding need to be earthed
Thanks

Attachment 18167did some work in between making a beer today and set up the pots and switch on some cardbord. Im still undecided on the wiring weather to do the standard wiring or just use one vol and no tone controls, i really like how my 333 sounds. After reading through the forums finally found about the shielding so of to the naughty hardware today for some copper ta,pe wich ill do tonite or tomorrow

Attachment 18168 first time up right

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Originally Posted by Adam Barnes

Attachment 18168 first time up right

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Just caught up with the thread, love the colour scheme, looks very classy, well done.

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Originally Posted by nitroburner1000

Just caught up with the thread, love the colour scheme, looks very classy, well done.

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Thanks nitro, your sg looks awsome

It's really not worth shielding the pickup cavities when you've no way of shielding the controls. You've got humbuckers, so you really won't get much noise from them. If you were worried, then covered humbuckers would be better than tape shielding as the entire pickup is then shielded. Any noise that is picked up will come from the unshielded single wires in your wiring harness

So make your harness wires as short as possible. It's all quite compact in a 335, so it shouldn't be too big an issue. But remember that you need to run wires around the D(iamond)-hole (as it's not an F-hole) so you don't see them. The longest wire runs are from the pickups, but those cables are shielded. Where you end up running signal and ground cables in parallel, you can wrap them together so the ground cable acts as a partial shield.

And don't forget to connect up the bridge post grounding wire!

Thanks simon, i saw your message 10 min to late Attachment 18225
I started some of the wiring Attachment 18226

This humidity on the east coast at the monent is a nightmare for the finish coat, only got one more to do but dont want to risk getting the bubbles in the final coat like i did before

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Originally Posted by Adam Barnes

Thanks nitro, your sg looks awsome

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Cheers mate, this site produces some classic axes

No problem at all if you've done it, just remember that the shielding will need grounding to work, so you'll need to solder a ground lead to it. And I'd mark on the position of your D-hole on the cardboard. It's not quite as big as an F-hole but you'll find that you probably need to run some cables from the bridge volume pot around the outside of the two tone pots to get to the selector switch. You could cut across a bit, but if you keep all the cables together, you can tape them up and make a stiffer harness that's actually a lot easier to fit. The D-hole doesn't give you the useful wide bit at the end of the F to get your finger in to push the pots around, so you'll need to pull most of the pots through with string or wire.