Yes. Yes you will. :D
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Yes. Yes you will. :D
Bring me PBG kits and you may drink for all eternity!
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Now you've done it! Better hope ADam and DB didn't see that post!
you serious Joe unlimited supply of Duvel, I wouldn't get much done at all
I still got a 1.5L magnum of Duvel I scored a few years back displayed in the workshop !
I am a big fan of quadruple/triple/dubel beers and most of the sour/gueze range
Unlimited is a big word if mad guitar crazed australians start poppingg out of the woodworks left and right it might quickly become limited :p, brewery is only 5 minutes drive away though!
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how far are you from St Bernadus and Rochefort breweries Joe ? I heard there are many rules to be able to buy a carton of Rochefort 10
This country is about the size of your average backyards so not very far lolQuote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
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haha ok Joe, we better get off the beer topic or your build diary will go off the rails.
We got a home brew thread in the Naughty Corner section for beer talk
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5438
Duvel yes someone mentioned beer?
We have a beer thread and i thin Duvel has popped up a few times.
Beat me to it Wok
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...434a67ff6c.jpg
Added more 2 more layers, one more before bed tomorrow tru oil!
Took up contact with the belgian post company today they couldnt tell me anything i didnt already know. Parcel left australia 5 days ago since then it hasn't been scanned.
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I have the no scan thing from the USA then it turns up on my doorstep 2 weeks later.
I'll just repeatedly bang my head into a wall untill it arrives then. [emoji27]Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyw
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a2a5283d46.jpg
Eagle1 has landed!
Belgian post tracking shows it currently in the evil clutches of the customs office that better not take too long![emoji14]
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Customs should be a breeze and hope to see you mock build soon.
Disaster!!! I was pretty pleased with the result after about 6 coats of tru oil so i decided to try some ghs guitargloss as a finishing touch. It was like all the tru oily guuuuudness and some of the paint just came right off!!!
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The other guys no more about Tru oil than me, but, After putting on the number of layers of tru oil you want, probably wait at least 21 days to fully cure. then wet sand with very high grits before using an auto cut and polish then a final polish with some auto wax.
In fact I think some of the guys should put up their techniques in the finishes thread.
Got to agree, this looks like the oil hasn't cured properly.
Yeah, set or not I'd be binning that Sh*t anyway.
Good thing it's just the testpiece will be taking my time with the actual kit, i'm purposely gonna build it in my gf's workshop (she's a jewelsmith) where i'll only have time to work on it during weekends, the weather is picking up and it'll have a whole week to cure between sessions.
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Best to find these little speed bumps in testing eh? If your GF is a Jewelsmith you could get some additional inlay bling going!Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Piler
I'll Look into that however i got a maple fingerboard neck delivered with this kit and australia is a long way away to order a new one if we screw it up.that is of pbg even has any more.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
I'm playing for a live audience for the first time end of may would be sweet if i could use it there. If not i have my trusty ibanez sas32fm.
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Looks like that GHS stuff partially dissolved the TO plus part of the colour from the underlying artwork.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Piler
Never had that happen as I mostly lay down 6-8 coats then 2000 grit or higher wet sand after it has been left to cure for a couple of days. Then repeat again but with micro mesh pads from 4000, 6000 to 8000. For the 3rd application of coats from # 12 or higher usually leave a bit longer, week or so and then wet sand again with micro mesh pads right up to 12000. Next step is to use Meguiar's Car Polish as per these links.....http://www.meguiars.com.au/surface-p...mate-compound/
http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/category/clean-prep
I notice that polish "contains petroleum distillates" ..........I reckon that is the problem...acting like a degreaser as it warns of it milking older polish.
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She's here!!!!! And still over half a day of work ahead of me before i can fondle her. [emoji27] [emoji27] [emoji27] [emoji27] Ended up having to pay 40 euro customs fee.
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...afec3708bf.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f72d66805e.jpg
At the 12th
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ccd318ee9a.jpg
At the bridge
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6bf616c751.jpg
Seems fairly accurate.
How about that fretboard? Its fairly smooth, leave as is or should i put a protective coat on it? What?
Frets are a bit corroded here and there any fix for that?
Will be starting on it sunday afternoon sanding shaping HS and first coat of stain.
Greetz Joe
Greetz joe!
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Joe,
What a score! I can't believe you got that flame in the spalt as well! Its going to look crazy!!!!
Please please be careful not to sand through the veneer (its quite thin). I used nothing but 320 or 400 grit on the cap sanding carefully and lightly.
The spalt, by its nature, is a bit ripply. If you are finishing the guitar in Tru-oil, you can start with a grain filler (I used ebony timbermate), then sand that back. you can build up the tru-oil coats on the cap, then wet sand them back and add more layers to get a flat finish. Have a look at my LP-1SS build diary if you want. unfortunately, it took me a few months to finish the cap on mine, but the patience paid off.
The scale length looks like it will be within tolerance.
The fretboard finish is quite personal and up to you. For me, I prefer that my fretboards aren't lacquered or sealed by anything. just natural with a bit of Dingowax (as I'm in Australia).
the frets can be buffed by a bit of 0000 steel wool and metal polish (be careful not to damage the fret board in doing so)
Enjoy ...you earned it.
If by riply you mean the waves in the top, I kind of like those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
About the fretboard it seems pretty solid but also really dry and "scratchy" i imagije bending strings up and down that would feel kinda raw i would like to add some smoothnessbto it without darkening the color too much.
Do i have to protect the binding from the sandpaper?
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Hi Joe.
Yeah the ripples in the spalt. I had some channels that ran down the spalted maple (not the flame in the maple I had not flame that yours!) If you like an uneven cap, thats cool. Its all personal taste.
Good plan regarding the fretboard, maple is drier than rosewood. but I'd probably condition the fretboard at the end of the build.
I wouldn't worry too much about the binding when steel wooling the frets. You will need to prepare the binding by sanding it before staining (painting). Its mentioned in Gav's post in How to build your Pitbull Guitar. sanding and polishing the binding before staining helps prevent any leeching of the colour into the binding. and if there is leeching its quite easy to sand it out.
I think i know what you mean the flame is rippled but there is a spot in the spalt where there seems to be a dent i'll take a picture when i have daylight.
So i went a'd checked out gavin's post if i understand correctly i need to polish the binding with only fine sandpaper and tjen steel wool and then rub off any spilled stain with steel wool between each coat. In the end do i rub tru oil over the binding?
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Yep you got it! the binding is pretty durable plastic, it can take a bit of sanding. Check it out though, I have found that there have been some divots in it when i start my builds which i have had to sand out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Piler
Ripply:
Attachment 10527
See how the cap on mine is not very smooth. (sorry not the best photo). Its a combination of my not sanding it back too much and that the spalted maple is a bit uneven.
After applying many coats of Tru-oil and sanding back, reapplying and sanding over and over.
Attachment 10528
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...441ed50738.jpg
So we made it to the workshop and after sanding i made the BIG mistake of think i could apply the stain directly to the body and then start rubbing, i hope that'll sand out
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Some pics sanded the whole thing 240-400-600-1200 000 steel wool (couldnt find any 0000)
Shaped the headstock.
Initial black coat on the top, sanded back and applied first coats of green to the top and neck, the top is gonna have an amazong contrast vs the neck and back of the body. I hope enough coats of green will mask my cock up woth the black stain.
I enjoy working with the watered down acrylic paint so mich more than the water based inks.
It's much more forgiving, easier to clean off and spreads a lot easier it also takes to spots where the water based black ink did not.
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Looking great so far, can't wait to see it all finished, should look cool.
Hey Joe, im loving the green neck. Cant wait to see her all finished.
Looking great Joe! Love the headstock design. Personally I would just condition the fretboard with Dr Ducks or Dingotone wax at the end of the build. The wax especially will provide a nice smooth surface. he green colour is looking great over the spalt anf the neck. This is going to be a killer build dude!
cheers,
Gav.
"Sanding....fun for the whole family"
Looking great!