looks good Sansan, this is going to be a very cool build !
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looks good Sansan, this is going to be a very cool build !
Hi there, some minor update....
Finally, i get some steel bar from a walmart kind a place here in Europe, to make a cheap fret leveler, but before, lets make the truss rod hole so i can straighten the neck a little more.
I think a single hole is just than enough. 13 mm drill bit, quick and easy, key fits well, ok its done.
Attachment 8295
I started to binding out the entire guitar, using the acetone/binding cement mixing, and for me its the best method.
Attachment 8297
Attachment 8298
Some wood filling or maybe binding cement refilling...not a problem
Attachment 8299
Attachment 8300
I tried out the CA gluing, but a few spots on the wood, make me change my mind..
Attachment 8301
Lets start scrapping
Attachment 8302
Thats all for now!
S!
HI!!
Currently finishing the binding of the entire bass, and when i had drill the last dot hole of the fretboard side, i do realize that i drill the (2) 12 fret holes in the 9th fret channel...:mad:..so, start again doing the left side of the binding...Nothing matters, because there were a couple of things i didnt like from scraping.. Next will be better.
One question a have about the set of the neck into the body..There is almost a nice fit but needs to refill at the end just a little to be perfect...
Where its supposed to be better? On the sides of the neck joint or body cavity? I've read about two ways in diferent threads, but i think i would get some more stability from neck joint reinforcement, right?
S!
Hi Sansan
I'm not sure if I understood correctly but do you mean that the neck joint fit is not perfect?
When I built the RC-4 my neck heel was just a bit angled for maybe 1mm and I just took a sanding block and sanded it straight. Some builders have reinforced the neck joint by either putting blocks of wood on the sides/deeper cavities next to the neck or one poured some kind of epoxy or something to fill the sides. When I sanded the neck to fit properly to the pocket - I didn't do anything but glue the neck in place. Mine has been secure in place and so far no signs of bending on the back of the body or twisting on the neck (7 months). But I understand if one wants to make it stronger just in case cause the thickness of wood between neck and back of the body is quite thin. If I did it again now I would propably do the same myself.
Hi Arzi, thanks for reply.
I mean, the sides of the neck when meets with the body hole is not tight, so the neck just move from left to right making some angle due the tiny space between them. This can make some confusion when placing the bridge on the right position.
Maybe regular gluing do the trick, but i prefer to have a perfect match that keep the neck and body together without any glue..
There is a little gap (0.4mm or less) between
Attachment 8602
and
Attachment 8603
Ok now I understand and you're right - the fit should be snug so the area that is glued would not get to move. I'm not sure if and how well to what point this can be solved with just applying enough glue - will it do the trick. If there is too much gap it would need filling. Now I don't have the expertise to give advise on how to do this. Hope the more experienced guys like DB and others can help you. I'm also interested to hear what methods there are.
The answer might be some glue that would not shrink too much and would fill the gap at the same time while you clamp the neck in place.
See you found my build... :)
0,4mm doesn't sound too much and when you divide it it's 0,2mm per side. Now I think this is a gap that could be filled with just glue but I'm gonna let someone else give their opinion too.
THanks for posting on your RC-4 build. I am also interested in building one....a "Fireglo" 4003 is like a Ferrari to me, a dream that I can't justify...but this, yeah, I could do it. QUESTION: did the kit come with both the body and the neck already bound? Pitbull advertises the binding as "Cream"...I would prefer white, but how dark is the cream binding compared to white? Thanks!
Thanks again arzi, got to think what to do with the gap. ;)
Hi muxo, the kit comes all bound. i changed it because i want it in white color to match with the inlays. REmoving the binding was not easy, plus, there so many parts in neck and body that rip off some wood, so have in mind to fix the channels for the new binding.
I barely remember, but it reminds me more like an ivory...
Attachment 8613
definitily not as cream as
Attachment 8614
morning gents!
Done a lot of things this weekend...(wife and daughter on vacation, the house is on fire right now)
-Finish the neck binding thing...done! (waiting for fretboard seal)
-level and polish the frets........done!
-Bridge RB pickup routing........done!
-Back edges round...done! (so much dust)
-2nd black TOP grain fill ..done! (a few spots of binding glue turns me again to the solid color unless i found some critical way to remove them..mineral spirits maybe??)
MOCK BUILD......done!
Attachment 8698
Attachment 8699
I finally erase the glue spots near the body binding, and this is the actual state of the top...
2 passes of black grain fill, sanded to 220...
1 coat of nitro sanding sealer stained black applied with a rag, around 30 % nitro - 70 % solvent
Now question, im afraid about the finish clear coats because i surely use some acrilyc clear lacquer..(I used nitro spray before and it was a real pain)
Do you think i might have problems about the nitro+acrilyc coats? Some guy tolds me if i let the nitro enough time to evaporate (its very diluted) there would be NO problems at all.
Re Acrylic over Nitro sealer, it might pay to do a test on some scrap.
Always best to play it safe :)
Thanks dingo... im doing some test on scrap...The stained nitro sealer coat, contains more than 70% of stain, 25% solvent and 5% nitro sealer, in proportion so...lets see....
S!
opss forgot to say that i'll use some disolvent acrilic base not a 100% acrilic base.. anyway the scrap testing reveals compatibility at the moment, so the next week we'll see..
Hi Sansan, I had similar problem using acrylic over nitro. A French polisher recommended I used shellac between the two. But if you have tested and it works I'd use that method. Looks fantastic job so far well done.
Thanks kimball for your reply..
I've been busy giving some minimal touches, reshaping the new pickguard, filling and setting the neck joint (now it fits perfect), and deciding/researching for the finish that will be a black satin oil finish..so, let the masters speak..
This is what a want to achieve without using any spray can..
http://guitarampboard.com/forum/view...=16555#p319836
I used ebony grain filler at the top, but i'll not use on the rest, i want to feel the grain a little more..
I finally decide to stain the bass with speedball superblack indian ink (purchased on ebay), then finishing with my own blend of wiping oil poly, due the overprice products i've found on ebay (wipe on poly)...since i found this...
http://www.ebassist.com/forum/showpo...8&postcount=17
That makes me search for more and more and found the holy grail...
https://makesomething.tv/how-mix-and...oil-poly-blend
Lets see!
Lets update. I dont have much time for working on the bass, so i've been doing little things from time to time..
First, close pic of the Gibson type nibs of the fretboard...i like this way than regular fretwire finish.
Attachment 9479
I've make a new pickguard, from 3 ply white sheet and waiting for the wiring (incoming from banzaimusic in deutchsland)
Attachment 9480
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Attachment 9482
Setting the neck for the glue stage..It fits almost perfect.
Attachment 9483
Ouch, i forgot to mention..
thanks to david picciuto for show me the way to undertake the finishing of the bass, and specially for attention and advices about the fretboard finish.
Looks awesome Sansan, loving this build;)
Thanks jeppo, im glad you like it...:o
making some pickguard holes, and final touches to the pickguard sides. Only lefting pickup cavity and polishing.
Attachment 9513
Attachment 9514
S!
Hi guys!
Been very busy at home..Being a father its time consuming but...you know, the first is the first...
Some progress around..
I've finish the pickguard and installed the electronics...because of the shielding theres no need to ground pots to switch but its ok.
-CTS 500k (linear/V and log/T)
-Sprague orange drop 715p 0.047uf
-3 way switch remain from another previuos project
-All parts rickenbacker style knobs
-4 pointer washers
-neck pickup cavity aligned and installed and shield job finish.
Attachment 10523
Attachment 10524
Attachment 10525
theres some evil and tempting thoughts about make some transformation to convert the set neck in a thru neck body....lets see what it happens, need some time and effort, things that i dont have at this time...:eek:
cheers!
Beautiful job great work Sansan.
thanks kim! its an honor coming from you..;)
Neck through body conversion?! Now that would be a thread to watch!
I was wondering how one would do that conversion, what are your plans for the neck though? Looking forward to seeing what you come up with:)
That conversion requires some very careful measurement and some exceedingly nerve wracking saw work! I have seen it done in reverse (a friend removed the 'wing" sections of a headless flying V and created some more traditional body sides to add to it)Quote:
Originally Posted by JEPPO
I was meaning more towards what he would do with the beautiful neck mods, whether the neck's base can be extended otherwise just use them as a learning curveQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
The must for converting the neck will be about to achieve some improve on the sound of the bass. if the bass sounds pretty decent i'll leave it without this mod.
Anyway, there is 2 ways i've been thinking about.
Considering the width of the body is 40mms, and the joint tenon 15mms, One is sawing the body in two pieces making the side wings and gluing a long maple blank to simulate the thru neck (not my favorite, too much work for hand tools)
Another will be glue the neck to the body and then carved out with a router bit, along the back side of cthe body keeping the width of the neck all along with a thin maple blank (15 a 20mm). This will be cover the back side of the thru neck.
Next, will rest to carve out the top side for the other 20mms blank and glue the top maple blank all along to make a solid one piece with the two..
Finally will rest to carve out the pickups cavities... all of that requires extreme measurements, patience, time and some help from supernaturals divinity.
so easy 😒
Ok, testing the logo here. Im going to print on adhesive transparent or white film and see what it happens..
at the moment here is what we got in hands...
Attachment 10738
or
Attachment 10739
Rick trust rod logo its as we said here en spain "as fake as a wood euro" :p
The standard policy around here is to discourage using real brand names on instruments not made by that brand.
Rottenbacker make guitars? :confused:
:D:D
I know, i only make it for comparison purposes...:o. Hope there's no problem with the forum. The pic can be deleted if it is...
Since the first moment i do some guitar kit, or any kind of replica, i always try to not confuse me or anybody about that. Its not a rick, thats a fact..
Yee, dedmen, since now...:cool:
Hi guys....
Long time since the last update.... a lot spend, learning how to apply correctly the india ink, sanding it, screwing it, redoing it...screwing it....hundred of times. horrible experience, but learn some things..
-1. dont prep sand more than 240 grit, even 180 or less to get nice results.
-2. dont apply more than 2 coats. One if were possible.
-3. Apply with a bathroom sponge...and when its dry (1 min or so) rub with a used cotton shirt to even the ink..(it gets satin)
-4. I following to apply shellac from spray can. Get nice results on the back, not in the top.
-5. On ash wood, dont apply grain filler. Its not necessary, its better looking without it, and it will not accept the ink as well.
Anyway, some new features came along in the body. some relic touches on black..And neck sanded to barewood.
I had to routed 3mm for the bridge installation. A little bit of high action seen in the mock build so...dremel...heres your turn..again!
I decided to routed the cable room from neck pickup, due the complexity to solder to pots. I did it in my drill press, as I have seen on some original basses.
Here are the pics, not good quality sorry.
4th truoil coat applied yesterday, and it feels very nice..End is coming.
Attachment 12588
Attachment 12589
Attachment 12590
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Attachment 12592
The plan is finish him on july, and let it cure in August (im on vacation) for buffing on September..Lets see.
S!
great progress these ricci basses look great
Thank you sir! :o
looking tasty!
Sansan, I think you can agree that you've done a great job with the india ink, despite your set backs. Looks great
Well Andy, im happy at 90%. Top is giving me more troubles because of the grain filling and a non well tolerance to shellac, but the rest its way better.
Yesterday, i gave some 800 wet sanding using Mineral Spirits to the top, poping up the timber a little bit. Finally achieved something between the cold dead black and natural ash colour, not bad at all.
6 Coats of tru oil at now..I think i should apply no more than 10, its getting hard nicely.
Glad you like it, Dedman.:cool:
HI!
Ninth coat was applied yesterday, and now, im a little bit confused. Not whether to continue, as i feel the surface hard enough and less receptive to oil. I think i will leave him curing all of this month. Its hot as hell here in Madrid at now..38º C :mad:
What do you guys recomend for a satin finish?
I've read about some 1/1 mix TRUOIL/Mineral Spirits, buffed with steel wool as a glaze coat, and others giving a final coats of paste wax from Birchwood casey.