Is that Pandora's box I see with the lid open? ;-)
Very cool build. And the result is just great!
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Is that Pandora's box I see with the lid open? ;-)
Very cool build. And the result is just great!
Ok, looks like it was only a matter of time. Kit arrived last week to build one for myself. Similar but different. I’ve altered towards the heal of the neck and plan nut modifications. Looking forward to this. Inspired by listening and playing some Echo and The Bunnymen, wanted single coils and the whammy bar.
Hi Mark. I'm glad you are getting to build one on these for yourself.
Should be a great build, and just in time if FMC has it's way ;-)
Any interesting colors planned? Had to go back and listen to some Echo and the Bunnymen. Took me back to my college radio days (daze?) ;-)
Hi guys, still got a bottle of Haematoxylin in the shelf. It’s going to be purple, more or less the same as the previous build but with some modifications. First thing I had to do was fix up a repair job in the rosewood at the first fret. I can see someone has fix damage with glue involved. It felt a little rough under the fingers but a little rosewood dust, superglue and sand/scrape back has improved the fix. Shaping the headstock today if time permits. I’ve altered the heal of the neck so it’s less square edged.
It's a great color! Do you still have access to the original? One of the things I have wondered is whether the color has changed any with time. That was a problem with some of the old DingoTone stains IIRC.
Looking forward to seeing what you're doing with this one. The previous one was such a great gift. I had a feeling you'd want one too ;-)
I don’t have access to the OG guitar, but I understand the colour is stable. Part of the reason it is used in pathology I suspect. Head stock not shaped, but out with the old nut and in with a zero fret glide nut. Hopefully this will aid return to tune along with locking tuners when I use the whammy bar. Note to difference in string spacing. That’s fine with me because I have fat fingers.
Ok, forgot to upload the photo.
I have never used a zero fret before and I had completely forgotten I had brought it for another project years ago. I was a bit nervous about how low it would be at the nut until someone pointed out what happens when you put your finger down on the 1st fret. I’ve checked with a fret rocker and the zero fret is ever so slightly, slightly higher (literally half the width of a bee’s d,!&) than the first fret, so I think that must be spot on. Easy to install as you cut behind the nut into the fret board instead of in front of it. I assume the action will be nice and low.
Right now I’m wishing I kept a record of the wiring I did before. From what I can find it looks to me that the yellow wire from the middle volume pot tab and one of the black wires on the back go to the output. The other black wire on the back of the volume pot goes to the spring claw.
Ps. Well played against Australia in the World Cup last week.
The zero fret is interesting - I did not know that they can be used on all necks!
Plus, you are correct with the wires - Yellow wire is hot to the tip of the jack plug.
I hope not. For some stupid reason, I googled this, and they are surprisingly large...about 2mm. Also I am probably going to have nightmares from the description of bee mating habits.
That's what it looks like. Hope you'll report back. I am thinking about a trem on an upcoming build, this might be a good addition.Quote:
...Easy to install as you cut behind the nut into the fret board instead of in front of it. I assume the action will be nice and low.
1+ to what TD said on the wiring. The unattached yellow is definitely hot, and the two unattached blacks are definitely grounds. But there are a lot of yellow wires there that are being used as grounds.Quote:
Right now I’m wishing I kept a record of the wiring I did before. From what I can find it looks to me that the yellow wire from the middle volume pot tab and one of the black wires on the back go to the output. The other black wire on the back of the volume pot goes to the spring claw.
So, if it's any consolation it might not have helped to keep a record. The only way to know what the unattached wires do is to trace them back to what they are soldered to. You can't otherwise assume that yellow is hot since there are a bunch of yellow grounds.
Thanks! So far so good, but there are a lot of tough selections out there. Some of the African teams are surprisingly good...and then you look at where they play the rest of the time and it's not so surprising. I am dreading the possibility that USA and Colombia will meet up. My wife and children will all be wearing yellow jerseys and I may end up sleeping in the garage.Quote:
Well played against Australia in the World Cup last week.
Thanks for the wiring confirmation and the bee clarification. I stained the guitar, gave it a couple of coats of poly, it was too purple, sanded it back and started over. Feels like Deja Vu all over again! The grain is not particularly interesting, but I’m happy enough with the end result, it’s growing on me. See you after a Brazilian more coats of poly. I didn’t want to spend extra money buying a satin tin of FW for the neck, so I got a smaller tin of satin Cabot’s poly. The Cabot’s is much thicker than the FW. We’re at the business end of the World Cup now.
Looking good. I like the fade to the middle!
Looking very cool!
My wife is Colombian so between that and all the insanity with the US team it was a dark week at my house...but there were some great games. The two this week should be pretty exciting regardless of who you favor.