Good progress!
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Good progress!
I haven’t seen any other threads that have listed the costs involved. So, here’s a running tally of mine (cost includes postage).
Costs
- Kit: 179.50
- Tonerider pickups: 119
- Grover tuners: 44.95
- Copper shielding tape: 5
- Bone nut: 5
- Neck plate engraving: 20
- Locking strap pins: 37.23
- Tru oil: 34.95
- Lemon yellow stain and Nitrocellulose spray cans: 158.50
- Guyker saddles: 22.98
- Ferrules: 23
- Case: 109
- Nut files: 137.95
- Neck ruler, sanding block and crowning file: 68.85
Running tally: $965.91
Incidentals that you may or may not have already: soldering iron, sand paper, sanding blocks, glue x 2, tools.
Please remove this post. How can we hide our GAS hobby spend from our partners if we don’t secretly drip feed in components. :-;Quote:
Originally Posted by craig747400
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
See the trick is to purchase more kits and amortise the costs of tooling etc across the various kits...;)Quote:
Originally Posted by craig747400
Haha … agreed! :cool: Glad my Dad has the workshop.
It does show how much of an investment they truly are to the maker. Imagine factoring in cost for time … no wonder custom guitars cost a bomb!? :eek:
Kit inc upgrades, Bone Nut, DT Stain, $300
Locking Tuners $85
Decals $45
Tonerider AC2 Pickups $130
Stain $50
Tru-oil $35
Strings $45
Sandpaper and Mesh etc $25
Pick-up Knobs $22.30
Musiclily Bridge $25 (didn't use but couldnt return)
Gotoh Bridge $103
Fred Sander $17
Various Polishes / Waxes / Cloths $70
Tool kit - $30
Pickup Rings $8.50
Cable Jack $10
Files and Drills etc $50
Steel Wool $15
Aquarium Tubing $15
Tools (Dremel) $50
Electronics (Cap, 2x CTS POTs, Treble Bleed Circuit, Wire) $56
Pickup switch $15
Solder, washers etc $40
Extra Wiring $10
Thin Model Tape $15
Second Hand Case $50
TOTAL $1300...
Crikey!!! What strings are you using???Quote:
Strings $45
3x packs. Kept breaking high E when restringing after changing my bridge and playing around with the setup. I thought I was under $1k. Could have bought a real hollow body se for the budget. BUT cannot buy the learning and fun making my own guitar and the custom electronics are not an option on the Oem version.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, it is truly about the journey in this game! And there's a certain satisfaction of creating something that is truly a one-off (whether good or bad!!!)Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpearson
The 3 packs makes sense now... but 15 bucks a set is still pretty exy IMO, but I guess it depends on what flavour you like!
This was handy advice:
https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-id...-instructions/
Found this resource of information:
https://www.pdfdrive.com/building-el...e10181792.html
Measured the ferrules: 10mm rim, 8mm shaft, 9mm depth.
https://i.imgur.com/vku0jlH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iPzdz5h.jpg
Taped the drill bit, and set the drill press depth, and made a template for drilling the ferrule holes. End result = a little wonky (without a CNC machine, I reckon this job is always going to be a difficult one, getting all the ferrule holes to line up … any suggestions for anyone else viewing my build thread?). I’m not worried, as it’s on the back of the guitar, and still functions the way I want it to.
https://i.imgur.com/dK94hMW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rgDmWsz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/arizcGI.jpg
It took a lot of time sanding out the machine marks from the factory, especially in difficult spots, and the fretboard extension (progress pics).
https://i.imgur.com/fY3BaXj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jbCTDj7.jpg
I used a butter knife to cradle the decal into position, and lined it up using a clear ruler with parallel reference lines to align the decal with the top of the headstock.
https://i.imgur.com/75NeYSf.jpg
A jeweller’s screwdriver helped get sawdust out of the fret grooves, before putting clearcoat on the neck. The decal is setting for the meantime.
https://i.imgur.com/KrXgpjc.jpg
Using the suggestion of wiping off excess Timbermate whilst it’s still setting, was a very helpful piece of advice. I used the advice of using a ‘washcoat’ before using the Timbermate, then dried, sanded and cleaned it with Shellite before putting on the first coat of stain. The washcoat really made the grain stand up (fluffy), which was removed with light sanding. The grain popped a little bit better afterwards, and the surface is significantly flatter (pores filled in).
https://i.imgur.com/yfz9Aq5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/F9hTCVJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/M4e1agd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/RB5WIXm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Lp0viWZ.jpg
That would have been wood filler, not saw dust. It's supposed to be there.Quote:
A jeweller’s screwdriver helped get sawdust out of the fret grooves, before putting clearcoat on the neck. The decal is setting for the meantime.
When frets are installed, the tang is cut back slightly short of the fretboard edge, then the end of the slot is filled.
It will take a very significant amount of clear coat to make those even with fretboard edge again. Especially if you're doing a hand applied finish vs a sprayed one. I would suggest filling them with Timbermate. That's what I use when I do a re-fret or replacement.
If you have a look at factory produced guitars with unbound fretboards, you will see the slot ends are filled as I've described.
As for the string ferrule holes, their alignment looks to be pretty good, it's mostly the centre to centre spacing that's a bit skew-whiff.
If you have a rotary tool (eg: Dremel) and an appropriate bit, you may be able to adjust the "sides" of the holes enough to even them out. You only have .5 of "lip" on the ferrule, so it could involve some creative filling (I have done it with wooden veneer) but I think you have enough to work with there and make it look just fine.
You can buy a plate that has the ferrules built into it and are much easier to mount and they don't have sharps edges that mark surfaces like my hard tail guitars. I got mine from Amazon when I searched for ferrules, they are a little bit more expensive but are easier to mount and I have seen someone on the forums use them.
Before I found the plates, which I haven't used yet, I found a way of drilling the holes that line up the holes easy but it takes a little bit of material to make the jig and it can be reused. You will need either a thick piece of wood panel or 2 thin pieces of around 12 - 16mm but I used an old bench top made out of oak that was around 30mm thickness. It has to be big enough to allow you to clamp the guitar to it while you drill the holes. You will also need 2 drills the same size or if you have access and the skill to use a lathe then only 1 drill is needed. You also need to have mounted the bridge to give you the correct spacing.
Mount the bridge and drill the holes with a drill that fits neatly into the holes that the strings pass through. The holes only have to be 15mm deep as you can finish them off later. Mount the wooden plate onto the drill press and use some bolts or screws from the under side to hold the plate firmly to the machine. Drill a hole using the same drill you used with the string through holes and drill a hole deep enough to put a pin in. If you can turn a pin then you don't need a second drill but I found it easier to just cut a shank off a spare drill. The shank on a drill is soft and can be cut with a hacksaw although most people on this forum like some sort of a grinder, you do you. Cut it long enough so when you put this pin into the hole you just drilled into the plate mounted to the drill press it leaves about 10mm sitting proud of the plate. Make sure the hole in the guitar is deep enough to allow the guitar to sit flat on the mounted plate and not sitting on the pin. Once you have cut the drill put it into a drill and use a file to put a small chamfer on each end as this will make it easier to use later.
Take the guitar with the bridge removed and turn it over so the holes for the through strings are facing the pin in the jig. Align the hole with the pin, can be a little bit fiddly, and press it down so it is sitting flat on the plate and using some clamps clamp it in place. You can drill without a clamp but just to be on the safe side. Drill the holes required to mount the ferrules and then move over to the next hole and you will find they are perfectly aligned with the holes in the bridge. Take the plate off the press and then finish the holes through the body that you drilled earlier.
The hardest part is setting the height on the drill press so it is high enough between the chuck and the mounted plate to allow you to drill the small hole to put the pin in and then have enough space between the guitar and the chuck to get the bigger drill that use to drill the holes for the ferrules because once you have the pin hole drilled you can not increase the height to get the ferrule drill in. Other wise you will have to start again with a new hole.
Have used this method on 9 of my guitars and it aligns the holes perfectly to the holes in the bridge. You can measure the holes in the bridge to make sure they are right as if they are not then you will only replicate the incorrect space holes from the bridge.
Progress.
Tru Oil going on the neck.
https://i.imgur.com/EYO2LFq.jpg
Beginning the application of the nitrocellulose.
https://i.imgur.com/rB6Cw71.jpg
Got my Dad and I to initial and date the neck to commemorate my 50th.
https://i.imgur.com/NWHdENW.jpg
The decal has lifted slightly, so I was planning to visit a hobby shop for some decal fixative. Any other suggestions?
Looking good.
Signing and dating is a nice touch. But IMO you should sign and date the back of the headstock for all to see when it is built. I have been trialing using punch lettering and have recently been putting contrasting timbermate into the dents before sanding.
Saw this good idea on Instagram (as discussed above).
https://i.imgur.com/CvzWq8f.jpg
Seriously. Guitarists complaining about the price of strings! Don't ever take up bass guitar!! :-PQuote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Peter
Yes, but it means using another decal. Always put a decal onto a surface that's got some finish on already. a) They aren't designed to stick to a rough surface like wood and b) with clear coat over the top, you'll get a different look to the transparent areas of the decal because they've got a matt wood surface underneath that reflects light in a different way.Quote:
Originally Posted by craig747400
Sounds good … I have the ability to sand back the face of the headstock and start that part from scratch, again. *thumbs up*Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Did the shielding, and a look-see with some of the bits in place.
https://i.imgur.com/OE2Hsdn.jpg
This week’s efforts saw me strip back the decal, and continue finishing the neck (fixing some blemishes from previous).
With the body, the strap pins, bridge, pickups and pickguard are in place. Next week will be soldering and jackplug installation.
Ordered some waterslide decal paper, and toying with ideas for a new decal (name, font, size, position)?
https://i.imgur.com/TGOe10T.jpg
Today’s efforts.
Adjusted font size, used a shadow font, and changed a few things. Added a decal to the back of the neck, too. ;)
https://i.imgur.com/Ok8AOrN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QcM4Yr8.jpg
Soldering successful. Sound test (picture may not have sound, but it worked). :D
https://i.imgur.com/eZXuqsG.mp4
Nice decals!
Good work.
Look forward to seeing more pics!
How did you go putting on the decal under the tru-oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by craig747400
I am keen to know for my build.
Cheers
Tim
Hi Tim,Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Stahlmann
Make sure you have a couple of polished coats of Tru Oil on first, then apply the decal … this prevents a colour difference from showing under the decal. After the decal sets, I very gently applied the Tru Oil over the decal with a model building / hobby paint brush. I will be finishing the polishing of the neck on Wednesday (progress pics to come).
;)
Thanks so much mate. Your advice saved me a obvious mistake that I would have made. Many thanks and congrats on the build and your attention to detail. Cheers TimQuote:
Originally Posted by craig747400
The Tru Oil has set. Before and after polishing pics.
Before polishing, the surface has some waiver to it, kind of like skin.
https://i.imgur.com/e9eY9Cf.jpg
After polishing.
https://i.imgur.com/FCpqBkN.jpg
After polishing … no obvious colour differences noticeable underneath the decal.
https://i.imgur.com/RB3j4ol.jpg
Filing the nut was NOT fun. Glad I had 2 nuts, because I made a rookie error on the first attempt. All good now.
Set-up is done to standard-ish factory settings, which I would like to be a bit lower in time. I will play it for a while, and then make minor adjustments to the set-up as I get more of a feel for it.
Weight comparison.
- My JV Strat = 3.4kg / 7.5lbs
- This guitar = 4.45kg / 9.8lbs … it’s a beefcake!
Ready to take home. I will do a sound comparison with my Strats and Silvertones. If I get a good little video of it, I will post a YouTube clip.
Sound comparison today with the Strat: the Strat is surprisingly sharper, albeit, this Strat has the Japanese pickups, but I thought the Tonerider pickups would be ‘bitier’.
https://i.imgur.com/BezrSlq.jpg
I feel no need to install the string trees, seeing it all together.
When filing the nut, the v-shaped slots of the nut files were too wide at the bottom. So, second time round, I started the slots with the ‘correct’ file for the string, but finished the bottom of the slot with a file 2 sizes smaller, and a carving knife to finish the bottom of the high-E string slot. Using the nut files, meant the strings wobbled in their slot, so I started again with a new nut.
The shielding works. When plugging in the Strat, it hummed under the fluoro in my Dad’s workshop, but this guitar did not hum! :cool:
The Hot Classic pickups are quite overwound compared to a standard Tele pickup set. More winds = more inductance, and more inductance moves the pickup's resonant peak don the frequency range, so you lose some treble but gain more mids and a higher output.
Inductance for the Hot Classics is 2.7H and 4.2H vs 1.9H and 3.0H for the Vintage Plus.
I fitted a SD Hot Strat (neck) and Hot Tele (bridge) to one of my Teles and then swapped to more vintage spec pickups after a while as they were just a bit too too dull for clean work. If you are using a lot of overdrive and distortion, then the hot pickups work well, but for clean, I don't find them that good at all.
If you do a lot of nut work, then it really is wort investing in a good set of nut files. I don't regret the money spent on my Hosco nut file set as I've set up loads of friend's guitars now and got them playing far better than they ever have been.
Note that 'factory spec' set-up values are designed to make the guitars playable in the store without any buzzes, as it's likely the necks will either flatten or bow more depending on the temperature and humidity changes they've seen, and it's unlikely a music store will set up each guitar and adjust the truss rod before putting it on the wall (ideally they would, but it rarely happens). This is a far from optimum set-up if you like a really low action.
Second thoughts on the string trees: I’ve installed them, because the D, G, B strings tend to have a bit of a wiggle, and the string tree has stopped that from occurring (which causes a ‘tink’ noise when doing string bendsj.
More pics to come … off to MEL tonight, LAX tomorrow, so catch up when I get home.
The struggle is real. Finishing a nut is giving me hassle! :(
Good videos of Dan Erlewine on YouTube. ;)
G'day Craig, one of your photos just confirmed for me that TL-1 kit bridge plates come drilled with both top loading & through body screws, correct? Didn't the kit come with string ferrules though?
I can tell you that the kits do not include string ferrules. You'll need to purchase separately form another supplier. (the PBG ferrules are out of stock)Quote:
Originally Posted by guitalias
Also, I'm not sure that is a kit bridge. I've not seen compensated brass saddles included in any PBG kit bridges.
I know that the saddles were bought separately from reading the build diary.
No, I bought the string ferrules and had to drill the holes.
I bought compensated saddles, and added them to the kit’s bridge.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed