i tried a coat with tinted shellac and brushes, and it worked great.
the shellac just has to be thin enough
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i tried a coat with tinted shellac and brushes, and it worked great.
the shellac just has to be thin enough
I am waiting the arrival of some Tru-oil...had to throw the empty bottles on bin day...sad face. The neck looks great.
The body has been sanded to 400 grit...as per Big D and the instructions that came with the dye. It was hard getting the dye to seep into the wood...but much easier to work it around and not get borders/tide marks etc.
Three colours here.....straight yellow....yellow/cedar/green black...cedar/red.
This was first application yesterday....and dried to this morning. I noted a couple of defined edges and got at the body just now with 600 grit.
The 600 grit has now been stained again....not fair to photo it wet. It is now hanging. I think it looks very dark to me...but Big D seemed to want that on his video. Let us see what Tru Oil will do when it arrives.
The neck is looking nice with three coats of clumpy Tru-Oil. On Monday it can be satin poly sprayed....sanded at 600 grit....decals applied....then spray sand spray sand to about 2000.
Big D was adamant about getting the red and brown to stand out....I think I have done that. Let us see what the sand and better staining has done now. mmmmmm.
Coming along nicely.
I presume you did Tru Oil on the neck to get some amber tint?
If that was your intent, and planned for a poly finish anyway, you could have used your shellac to get the colour. Poly goes over shellac nicely.
I have a maple neck that I'm going to refinish (re-radius and re-fret too) and that's my plan. Enough coats of shellac to just get it's natural amber colour, then satin poly for the top coat.
I have some Tru-Oil coming from PBG...but it is taking ages in the mail this time. So naughty ozzie found some Boiled Linseed Oil in the cupboard of many things.
Wiped on...wiped down and hanging...still damp on the surface...one coat.
My bridge arrived today ordered from Aliexpress on 31 January and arrives 7th April. That is terrible.
After my recent revelation with Tru Oil dragging colour around I now have a deep golden brown body as shiny and as smooth as glass. No burst.
The neck is nearly done....little error with a four a side tuner going on the single tuner side...oops. Plugged, stained oiled and sprayed...nearly ready again.
May I ask a query?
The push pull pot is 5mm or a little more deeper than the hole allows. I have a Dremel style device with tons of fittings, but no idea of the purpose of each. Well some cut off wheels and the sanding drums are obvious. But what implement of whizzing do I use to gouge out a controlled amount of extra wood inside the control cavity? I have little pink rock things, gold coloured metal things, silver coloured metal things with shapes akin to the inquisition torture chambers.
Your guidance will be much appreciated....oh and I have measured there is heaps of depth there....thank you worrying.
I use whatever tool with a rough edge fits. I try and use the sanding drums where possible, but will swap over to something that can get into a small space if necessary. I'm sure some are better than others but if it's got a rough edge it will work (some quicker than others).
Of course there is the option of using a drill, if not for the whole thing, to clear away most of the wood for the Dremel to finish off. If you can put it on a drill stand (if you don't have a suitable drill press), then that makes it easier. You can normally set the drill up so it drills through the centre of the stand whilst the base rests on top of the guitar.
I presume you've checked cavity against body depth and removing 5mm isn't a problem?
I’ve got a little pink rock thing that is supposed to be a tool sharpening attachment when a separate....I’ll just photo it to explain. The wood carving attachments are what you are after. From what you are describing it doesn’t sound like you have one. My personal favourite is a cylindrical shaped one. I also have some cone shaped carvers. Back in jiffy with photo.
The cylinder ones (2 of the same type shown in photo) at the 19 fret would do the job. Perhaps a journey to the big green shed is required. Simon’s drill suggestion is good. Welcome back.
Yes I have checked depth. Sanding drums won’t work in the narrow control cavity. Thank you though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
No I do not have them. Serious looking gear and sounds like the things I need. What speed do you run them Mark? Thank you as well. 😎Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
Dark mark beat me to it, but those two cylindrical cutters are the ones to use. (a 2-pack at the BGS for $18)
Dremel just calls them "cutters" for carving and engraving. They are akin to a router/end mill type of bit perfect for what you want to do.
Also I use the real pointy one in the photo for countersinking screw holes. Especially if the timber is already finished (or in pickguard material). The bit is really sharp so I don't even use the dremel, I just twist it between my thumb and forefinger. Occasionally I use in my old school "egg beater" hand drill.
Good counter sinking tip, McCreed. I hadn’t thought of that.
Run the dremel at high speed for the carving bits.
"Good counter sinking tip, McCreed. I hadn’t thought of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Run the dremel at high speed for the carving bits."
Mac and Mark, thank you very much....it is a Big Green Shed trip...thanks again.
Weirdy, I have tried three times with two different push pull pots and my skills are not there to get this to work. Multiple connections on tiny lugs and layers over layers of connections.....phew.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Rather then a flying control plate dangling out of the wall at the end of its maiden flight. I have removed the push pull pot and completed the standard Seymour Duncan wiring diagram.
I hang my head in soldering shame.
I have recently completed two guitars/basses with real rosewood fingerboards. I have been avoiding the dodgie stuff. The majority of my recent builds have been Maple and mainly sprayed at the same time as the neck so no tape used.
I have noticed that when I do the quick tape up, on the rosewood, for a fret level, recrown and polish the fingerboard appears very faded if not washed out when I take the tape off. I leave it a few minutes and it is fine. I also noticed that when faded it had the consistency of soaked skin...a sort of cloudy loose appearance.
Well, this morning I removed some tape that had been masking off an area to allow a respray with poly of an adjacent area. This respray has taken 3 x 2 days between 3 coats sprayed 10 minutes apart each of the two days....so applied for a total of six days....with a total of 9 sprays over the area.
Under the tape I noted the previously sprayed poly had gone soft and had the appearance of the loose skin once a blister has burst on your heel. The tape did indeed tear a couple of sections which will now result in an all over sand after two days and a 3 x coats and wait about a week to final finish. As long as the 3 coats fill the tears all will be good....if not it will be another series to fill the tears.
Nowhere else on the neck where the poly had been previously sprayed was there any movement, tearing of softness of the poly. It has to be the tape covering the poly and locking the air out....or maybe too early applying and covering with tape when the poly has not finished venting the solvents....or the tape adhesive itself does cause the effect you get when you leave a band-aid on for a long time.
Just a note...be really careful using any tape....and especially removing it where it touches previously sprayed surfaces and fingerboards. I cant speak for paint....but I have noted this twice now on poly.
Note:- I did apply a layer of wax to both fingerboards and buff them up after about 2 hours and they look great now.
This would be my guess. I never apply tape to any finish that hasn't at least gassed off to the point that it would be ready for final wet sand an polish.Quote:
...or maybe too early applying and covering with tape when the poly has not finished venting the solvents....
I presently have a maple neck/fretboard that has undergone a re-radius and awaiting a re-fret. It will be getting a spray with satin poly after I have installed the frets. I won't do a level & crown for at least 2 weeks after the poly goes on.
However I will do the fret ends before spaying the poly, but I can safely do that without masking by using a proper fret end file.
Never had any issues with masking poly doing it this way.
Dear Sir/Madam,
Thank you for choosing WeirdBitsTM wiring layouts. Unfortunately your recent performance has dropped below our required standards, and as such all future association is now terminated. May we suggest drumming or remedial shoelace tying as an alternate hobby for someone with your fine motor skills.
;)
It was only about 4 days.....so I think you may be right.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
NOOOOOOOOOO.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeirdBits
Remedial shoelace tying is such a come down from soldering. Please forgive me oh master of the hot stick. :)
Hello all, meet "Tip Toe", and she is done. Well for the moment anyway. Once five string stuff comes back into supply maybe a bone nut, better tuners, a good set of pickups.
She has a nice tone, and does the normal J Bass thing of having to have one or the other volume rolled off a little to get loudest setting. Sounds great though.
and five more.....I call the body colour...SMEAR...it is yellow, orange and brown smeared by Tru Oil....and once I became aware of that I decided to go with it. Honestly, you could call it Golden Chocolate.
Four final piccies....really this is it.
Love the smear job XD
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
All that hard work and those pictures and you left the protective plastic on the top of the pickups!
Attachment 40208
Very nicely put together. Well done.
Simon,Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
I will apologise in advance....I left the plastic on the pickguard as well. I hope you were reading whilst sitting down.
I have a MusicMan kit 5 string and that is nice.....I indulged myself with some excellent guided wiring differences with that one. But, this one is so smooth....the sounds from the Chinese pickups are getting better and better. With some good cavity sealing with homemade black graphite paint, this bass is nearly totally silent.
What a great neck, with a very light basswood body, and some nice electronics. Another PBG Bass kit worth playing....nice.
I was sitting down!
Anal? Me? :)
Better take the plastic off for your GOTM pics.
Good to hear it sounds as good as it looks.