Greg, the important part is the string action height. if you have a ruler long enough run it from the nut to the bridge saddle, otherwise put both E strings on. The pups can be raised to suit the string height
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Greg, the important part is the string action height. if you have a ruler long enough run it from the nut to the bridge saddle, otherwise put both E strings on. The pups can be raised to suit the string height
Hi Greg,
My LP-1SS was a set neck. You are right it does not sit 4mm above the body. I haven't done a bolt on neck LP style as yet so i can't comment as to whether your neck is sitting high or not.
I believe Dedman has just finished one of these kits, maybe shoot him a PM
both my LP and LP Jnr sit about the thickness of the fret board AGAIN higher than the body
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Thanks all you has just confirmed that I was worrying over nothing.
In the last 10 minutes I came to the conclusion that my supposed problem had something to do with the fact that I have a bolt on neck and most of the others on the site are glue on. Then I found you responses.
I had been studying Dedman's build diary as I saw he had a bolt on but none of the photos showed the fretboard sitting up. Thanks for the latest photo Dedman.
What I think the bolt-on is, is a cross between a Gibson archtop and the LP. I was just beginning to confirm that on the Gibson web site. A Gibson ES175 looks similar at the neck connection. Including the connecting slot.
Anyway no excuses now I must get on with it, after I get rid of the grandchild at the end of the week. I am sure I will be in touch
Andy 40, I hope you don't mind but I think I will be going Karijini Red, yours looks so great. I hope it will brighten up my playing. Can you tell me if you highlighted the grain in yours. I don't think the quilted grain lends itself to highlighting as much.
glad you could see what was going on, bit hard to take close ups with flash on my crappy camera :P
Don't mind at all Greg, quite flattered actually. I used ebony timbermate to highlight the grain. Let me know if you can't find my build diary and i'll link it.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregLane
I started by sanding the sides back and neck until it was silky smooth, but dont touch the cap, its too thin. just put the ebony timbermate over the cap when you are ready and carefully sand the timbermate off with say 240 until you hit the cap then 320 so you don't sand through the cap. If I'm using dingotone, I only sand the sides to 400 so the DT will take better on the front and back and neck.
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Thats the ebony timbermate half sanded back
Looks like quite a watery consistency used there Andy as when spread on too thick it requires more sanding to remove and thus risk damage to precious veneer caps.
Yep thats right Waz, good point. I also did the cap last and quite separate to the entire rest of the body and neck as the technique is different and I wanted to concentrate more
What does one do with lifted veneer?
I wiped the veneer with a damp rag to look for glue spots and look at the quilted grain and noticed the veneer lifted. See photos.
What to do?
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Hi Greg,
This happened to Neverwas when he put his veneer down and DB gave him some tips...heres the thread. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ghlight=flames