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@mrpearson, I have a 0.5mm shim (for Tele/Strat) from Stewmac that I previously purchased. I'll try this if initial measurements look like it needs adjustment. But going by what you have experienced, it sounds like I'll need to go thicker than this. 2mm is a thick shim! Is it possible that the kit is this far out?
I am fine with a 1.5mm shim (didn’t want to go more than stewmac standard shim height) and it is probably a little lower in reality as measuring by eye and using the maths to get the height right. I did a full setup following setting the neck and can still go lower on the nut and will probably raise the action a little to match my prs.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbeltrami
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I actually ended up with a near 3mm shim to get the action very low, because I swapped the kit saddles onto the new lower profile bridge I bought. The kit saddles are taller and give a better break angle. Get your bridge and saddles sorted as well to help determine the shim you will need.
Ok so, I think the first thing to do is sort out the neck, make sure everything is aligned and the angle is ok. I have ordered a new wraparound bridge. Can anyone advise how to do a mock check without actually putting the bridge posts into the body? I'm not sure how I'd get these out?
Given I have to wait a little while for the new bridge, I'll start the slow and careful process of trying to remove unwanted glue and see how much trouble I think the veneer is going to give me :)
And here's a photo of the kit body and neck along with some visual cues around my thinking for a chrome/gold hardware setup. The pickups will be chrome/nickel with cream surrounds and mix of gold/chrome screws. I need to get a better looking truss rod cover than the standard one. Not sure what colour vol/tone knobs I will go with yet.
The plan for stain will be a black/charcoal top that highlights the quilted maple and charcoal back and neck. I may get adventurous and think about creating a veneer of some sort for the headstock face.
Attachment 42328
Looking at the photo, either you figured it out or you just stuck the studs in there. If that's not the case, the trick is just wrapping masking tape around the threads of the post until it's thick enough to provide enough resistance to friction fit them in temporarily.Quote:
Can anyone advise how to do a mock check without actually putting the bridge posts into the body? I'm not sure how I'd get these out?
Another alternative is use 8mm vinyl tubing to achieve the same kind of fit (that's what I use).
Interesting you have a different neck to the standard kit, head stock looks like the neck on the pbg website where as the new kits shipped are coming with the headstock pre-shaped like a major manufacturer. You might have a different action and not require a shim.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbeltrami
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Maybe. Let's see how I go!
I ordered this in June last year, with customisations. Maybe the newer kits have a different neck.
Its supposed to be Maple. I don't know my woods but it is nothing like the Maple neck on my TLA-1F. Feels much softer.
Headstock looks a little different, fingers crossed you have a better glue situation [emoji3]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bdb3836fc9.jpg
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So I got the body and neck out today to start cheking how things fit together and take a look at how much glue removal I might need to do.
There's a decent amount of excess glue - sigh!. There's also a couple of nasty marks/holes/scratches that don't look too flash. But the biggest issue is the alignment of bridge post holes.
Now, I had a hole alignment issue on my TLA-1F but that amounted to 1mm or thereabouts. This just looks ridiculous and I doubt I can work with this. What do you think?
Attachment 42354