DMS-1 The King's 4th Pitbull build

OK. thanks.
I think a couple of applications of ebony Timbermate.

Then a couple of Sanding Sealer.

Then red stain.

cheers, Mark.

The Feast Watson sealer does say stain afterwards using their Prooftint stain - which is spirit based. Look like the sealer is oil-based, so may not take water-based stains well or evenly.

I'd test on a scrap piece of wood first, just to make sure.

Thanks Simon. Yes I got my microscope out and read the label hehe.
So first thing is to lay on a watery application of ebony Timbermate.
A positive to take away is that it highlights any undesirable scratches and defects for sanding out.

Attachment 35709

Attachment 35710

cheers, Mark.

Yay! Youre on the road.
Good stuff!

My fretboard is pretty good and i put fretboard wax on it tonight.
How is your one looking?


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Let's pull some frets...
Attachment 35711

Minimal damage...but remember it's mostly sanded out.

Attachment 35712

Keep them in order whilst we go..
Attachment 35713

cheers, Mark.

edit: HI Ollie! not lookin' too bad

So to get some perspective regards to scale length...
Seems to be correct with the bridge over the pre-drilled holes.
Strange
Attachment 35730

cheers, Mark.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by king casey

So to get some perspective regards to scale length...
Seems to be correct with the bridge over the pre-drilled holes.
Strange
Attachment 35730

cheers, Mark.

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That was the same for me,Mark.
However once intonated the lowE&A were screwed tightly back.
I reckon 2mm back would be the right thing to do.


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Hi Mark.
I just caught up on this thread and see I got a mention!

I'd say your on the right track with your process but, FWIW, I didn't use sanding sealer on mine.
I did ebony timbermate, followed by water based dye, followed by wipe-on poly.
Simon makes a good point about the oil based sanding sealer with water based stain/dye. Not sure if there'd be compatibility issues or not. Worth testing as per SB.

edit:
Shame about the faux rosewood board. I would have talked to Adam and swapped it myself, but you're truly past the point of no return now!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OliSam

That was the same for me,Mark.
However once intonated the lowE&A were screwed tightly back.
I reckon 2mm back would be the right thing to do.

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That's interesting then Oli.

So now that you have 'correct' strings on...what is the actual scale distance of your high 'E'?

cheers, Mark.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

I'd say your on the right track with your process but, FWIW, I didn't use sanding sealer on mine.
I did ebony timbermate, followed by water based dye, followed by wipe-on poly.

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Hi McCreed, I was awaiting your valued input. That finish you achieved is definitely the 'red-rag-to-a-bull' target.
I haven't applied the Sanding sealer as yet.
One application of ebony Timbermate has hightlighted all the flaws that I need to sand out.
I did use red india ink on a previous guitar and it went well with the Tru-Oil, which I just happen to have laying around.
Either of those is still up in the air at the moment.

Yes, I could have kicked up a fuss about the fretboard.
Mustangs don't usually come with maple necks.
Despite being 'engineered' rosewood, it seems to be intact.
Once I've radiused it, I'll fine sand and see if a few lacquer top coats sort it out.

cheers, Mark.