Thanks guys. I'd love to show you some more progress, but there has been none. :( Still got some hardware to sort out, so in it for a while longer yet. Getting well into the 'over it' stages.
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Thanks guys. I'd love to show you some more progress, but there has been none. :( Still got some hardware to sort out, so in it for a while longer yet. Getting well into the 'over it' stages.
Anyone know how to get the wire spring dealy out of the back of these bridges without destroying them?
http://i.imgur.com/ORg1AH2h.jpg
Wanna flip the saddles so they all face the same way.
Gently I think I started with the centre and worked outwards and had no problems with the wire losing shape. Is this just aesthetics or for intonation? If just aesthetics I'd suggest you wait to see what you need intonation-wise.Quote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
Like Fretty I thought that they might have be set that way for intonation purposes, similar to the Wilkinson compensated bridgesQuote:
Originally Posted by pablopepper
Little bit of this, little bit of that. Mostly personal preference. This is only because I can't afford to upgrade the bridge right now, so trying to make the best of the situation. I dislike the idea of the saddles slanting towards the nut, not having that definitive point for intonation (all of the more expensive bridges have the slope towards the back) plus I like the adjustment screws facing the tailpiece for ease of access.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fretworn
Success! Starting at the centre and working out was definitely the key.
http://i.imgur.com/h4mSq0wh.jpg
I prefer this setup a whole lot more.
I read somewhere that technically the adjustment screws face inwards, but what ever works is a good thing
Seems counter intuitive to my small way of thinking because the tension of the string over the saddle will be tending to push it towards the 12th fret so the screw isn't pulling back against this tension but rather in a position to relax.Quote:
Originally Posted by stan
Happy to be shown this theory has fleas
From memory and without pulling out my G guitars the 'export' style bridges in these kits are more like the 'ABR' type (where the screws face inwards towards neck). On my SG-1F kit I actually swapped the low 3 saddles around to give me more room to intonate and kept the adjustment screws facing towards neck. Bit of a mix and match but does the job..
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It would have been impossible to adjust the intonation on my Bigsby TL-1 kit if the screws had faced the neck, as the bridge is right up against the humbucker.