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I need to be cut a little slack here regarding the Tru Oil.
I threw out the DT mk1, as directed, when I became a tester for mk2. Then I was told to throw out the mk2 because it was actually mk1. So I did what I was told, threw out the mk2/1 and waited, waited, waited (in vain) for the replacement DT mk2/2.
So, with this in mind, is DT intensifying coat compatible with the unmentionable oil?
hey Muzza do you mean mixing them and applying or waiting for the DT intensifier coat to cure then apply the TO ?
I've put TO over DT (when the DT has cured) no problem
I've put a few base coats of Blonde Shellac on my ES-3 build, and contrary to what others do [scraping it off ], I decided I liked the look of the shellac on the binding, rather than the stark white.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
It gives it a aged look, without the green tinge usually associated with aged plastic.
Stew Mac give a video tutorial on how to match new with old binding using tinted shellac, basically the same thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waGq9EE71UY
The beauty of using shellac is, 1] you can tint it with alcohol soluble dyes 2] it's easy to apply 3] It's also easy to remove if you find you don't like it 4] It's easy to repair if you damage it, as shellac melts into itself.
No, mixing it before applying it.
I thought i might might try mixing some instant coffee with the oil. Trouble is, this is an instant coffee free zone.
Using it as a stain is a much better use than drinking it. (Mixing it with Tru Oil would make it taste better too...)
[edit] hey Tweaky, we were typing at the same time, I almost missed your comment.
I don't have shellac, but my sanding sealer is shellac based. I wonder if that would suffice? I don't want to buy any more 'products'.
You could use tea as well, as it's just the Tannin that you want from it.
You might want to use old [used] Tea, as I think using fresh might be too strong a tint.
Muzza maybe try an experiment mixing the TO with DT intensifying coat on some scrap wood. I got no idea if it will work.
I'm sure DB will let you know, I reckon there could be a reaction of the ingredients
Probably would work.
Shellac based sanding sealer is basically a thinner pre-made / dissolved version of what I'm using as a over all finish, it just doesn't have as much shellac in it.
That product was originally bought out by a company called Zisser, it's the same stuff people have been using for centuries, they started to called it sanding sealer so they could sell it, as people were changing to POLY based products back in the day.
Either way, it would be easy and safe to try, as it would just put a thin layer on top of the binding, if it's not the colour you want scrap it off again, or intensify it with more coats, you could tint it as well.
Hi Muzza, TO goes over DT once dry & cured quite well but never tried mixing it together. Don't think it would work as TO seems more oil based whilst DT seems more watery.
Did an experiment adding colours to TO and it did not like the water based additives as once all shook up the colour seemed to be just small suspended balls in an otherwise oily solution.
Here is an idea....a bit messy but it should do the trick, not cost too much and you may even already have the ingredients in your kitchen. Ever noticed how Indian Curries seem to leave a yellowish stain on things? Tumeric is the main culprit and comes in those cheap little packets in the herbs & spices section at the supermarket. You will need gloves as this stuff stains almost forever, well many days at least before coming off your hands and fingers.
My wife cooks with Tumeric all the time and it leaves stains on the stone kitchen bench tops all the time. Only way to get it off is to apply small amount of undiluted hand dishwashing liquid to the affected area and leave overnight and it simply wipes off next morning.
You could either sprinkle a bit in with a small amount of TO, shake that around for 30 seconds to blend and then apply to scrap bit of wood. If that works without coming out grainy or lumpy maybe try on a bit of scrap plastic of similar composition to the binding to see how it reacts/attaches.
Alternatively create a paste like mixture and spread it thinly on the scrap timber or plastic to see how it turns out. Once dried out (24 hours or more) simply wipe off the excess and allow to dry for another day or so and then lightly apply 1st coat of TO with a brush as ragging will drag the stain just laid down. TO does have a slight amber tint and when combined with Tumeric should give off an aged ivory appearance.
With a delicate stain coat that is followed by TO I have always done initial couple of coats lightly with a brush as the rag method does grab and drag the underlying stain and can create an awful mess. Once a couple of TO's are down and dried out best to revert to ragging otherwise the brush marks become really obvious and therefore require heavy wet sanding to remove.
Good luck buddy and hope you like some of these ideas.
Muzz, if you use TO, bear in mind that it:-
1. usually sits on top of the binding, and doesn't stain it; and
2. TO without any stain has a yellowing...or ambering effect on the binding as it dries;
3. The coats don't blend with each other (they sit on top) so the more coats, the more yellowing and it can be a bit finnicky to get an even coat (same colour) all the way around the binding.
4. if you don't like it, its relativley easy to sand off with a bit of elbow grease ;)
Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm going to give the shellac method a crack. My wife is half Indian, born in Calcutta, so there's plenty of turmeric in the pantry. I might add a sprinkle of instant coffee to the mix as turmeric is pretty yellow.
I'll post the results soon(ish)