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Ok Kurt, as per the PM here's an annotated diagram to help with the coil spit mod:
Attachment 3770
As I've said before, be very careful handling and/or moving the pickup's wires as it doesn't take much to break either the connections to the coil wire or the coil wire itself.
I know your new shielded wire is 2 core but we only need one of them for this, so pick a colour and just ignore the other one. Cut to length, trim and strip the tips as needed to get it to line up with where you need it to make the connections.
You don't want to cut the series link wire (black), you just want to pare enough of the insulation off so that you can join the coil split core wire onto it (essentially, you are tapping onto that wire). Very careful use of a sharp craft/x-acto knife works well to remove some of the insulation. Once you've cleared a small gap in the insulation on the series link wire carefully solder your coil split core wire onto it.
The coil split shield wire connects to the existing pickup bare shield wire (ideally where it is soldered to the baseplate), so solder that in place too. On these pickups the original shield wire is usually split into two, with one branch going to a coil and the other going to the baseplate. Connecting your coil split shield wire to the baseplate branch is the stronger and safer option.
Once you've made the connections ensure they are insulated with heatshrink and/or electrical tape so they can't short with anything (not so much an issue with the bare shield wire, but definitely insulate the series link/coil split core join).
IMPORTANT: before you put the cover back on the pickup make a note of which coil the white 'hot' wire connects to. In the above image you can see the white core of the original pickup wire connects to the 'slug' coil (as opposed to the 'screw' coil). You need this information for each pickup when it comes to wiring your coil split switch. Check this on each pickup and write it down before you close them up, as it can very between pickups. For example, in this thread the bridge hot is the slug coil and the neck hot is the screw coil.
Once you've got all that sorted let me know and we can work on drawing up a wiring diagram for you with coil splitting to match your coil/hot configuration.
Clear as mud?
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Jesus, I think I've got it though. Quick question though, the 'shield' wire is just the earth wire right?
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 3771
heres that picture wierdy...
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Ah nope, sorry, that's not what you need. That appears to be for mains wiring... active, neutral, earth. What you need is shielded audio cable, that is the 'shield' wire surrounds the inner core wire(s) like the yellow/red wire that's already connected to your pickups (like in my image above).
Something like this:
Single core screened (shielded), 2 core screened (shielded) or 4 core screened (shielded)
(or online from the places I mentioned the in the PM)
Buy a couple of metres just in case, as you may need some extra for wiring the guitar.
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Nope I've givven up, I'm just buying a some split system pickups, all but finished it and as I put the cover back on I hear a *tink*... Took the cover off clearly and all the coil wire has just snapped. So I've decided it can go in the bin where I never want to see that useless damn thing ever again! Do pitbull sell any good split system pickups?
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It was worth a try.
The Tonerider and Entwistle humbuckers on the PBG store are all 4 wire (from memory), so any would work. Check out some sound samples on YouTube etc and pick the model that suits the sound you want.
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So I ended up deciding on the entwhistle DN (I think) range. Look good, should sound nice, and do what I want, while I'm at it, what switch do I need to order for the split system, is there a specific brand that is or type of switch that is better to get?
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The switch brand doesn't really matter, it just needs to be an On/On DPDT (double pole double throw) mini toggle switch. Mini-toggles typically need a mounting hole about 6mm, which means it should fit nicely in the stock PBG mini pot holes.
Something like either of these:
On/On DPDT mini-toggle, flat handle (I prefer flat handles)
On/On DPDT mini-toggle, bat handle
You just need to make sure the switch collar (with the thread) is long enough to extend through the body so you can get the nut on it.
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Quick update, just ordered the new pickups, ilol leave them as a surprise, I also ordered the new mini toggle switch.
On another note, I just realised, after all this time, that I need a cover plate for the back panel where the floyd Rose will sit. So what's the best way of going about this, do I just custom order one from somewhere or can i just buy some material and cut it myself (which I would prefer. If I can do method B, where can I get that sort of material from?
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a) I have a spare one you can have. Black, I think.
or
b) I will cut you one. Pretty much any colour you like.
