Attention Weirdy and other electronic gurus!!

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

If it's the model of clamp meter I think it is, looking at the manual for it, http://documents.milwaukeetool.com/58-14-2221d4.pdf, then I can understand your issues.

The second picture shows the buzzer setting for continuity. That only measures up to 600 ohms. The resistance setting (the omega setting) only reads up to 6k ohms.

It simply isn't capable of reading some of the higher resistances on the coils, so can't differentiate between an open circuit and a >6k ohm resistance coil.

You need to get hold of a multimeter more suited for the task. You really need to buy a cheap one as you can't do much testing without one. You could have bought one from Jaycar whilst you were there!

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Alright, I'll look at this on Thursday when I get paid. So can you tell me what range I need to cover?
Thanks again everyone for the assist!

Most humbuckers can read up to 15k so a range up to 20k is required to get a result.

I think I bought a cheapish MM from Jaycar a while back and it works OK. They have a few to pick from and most likely better quality than you would find in a Green shed and probably cheaper too.

Here is a link for their $10 one... https://www.jaycar.com.au/low-cost-d...r-dmm/p/QM1500

Looks like it is good enough for what you need.

EDIT: IF YOU SCROLL DOWN THE PAGE YOU WILL FIND A CLEARNCE ONE FOR $6.95 - ABSOLUTE BARGAIN!!!

Something like this should be fine; https://www.jaycar.com.au/economy-au...ensor/p/QM1529

It's auto-ranging, so you don't need to worry about selecting the correct range For what you need it for when working on guitars, it's fine.

If you do fancy spending a bit more money, then this https://www.jaycar.com.au/economy-tr...meter/p/QM1321 is an auto-ranging unit that has a few more features, like a capacitance tester, that you might find useful. But the first one will do you for now if you want to minimise your outlay.

Yep, the Low Cost DMM will be fine if you just want it for basic guitar work. If you're testing lots of components regularly then it's nice to have one that can also test capacitance etc.

If your tests showed that the coil pairs are actually green/white, red/black then when you re-wire the mini-toggle you'll need to swap the red and white wires on the switch from the diagram. That is, your white wire will bridge the two diagonal lugs and the red wire will go the single lug instead. That explains why you were only getting sound in the 'series' position and nothing in the other two at the start of all this.

EDIT: Before you wire up your new switch test it and compare to that type 1/2 diagram. If it is type 2 then wire it as I described above. If it's type 1 then we'll need to change the switch connections slightly.

Thanks again guys! Love this place!!

Build is officially on hold until I can get hold of a 3-way on/on/on switch. Jaycar don't seem to stock one locally, and unless I'm looking for the wrong thing, I can't find one on their website. I'll try the local music shop, but I'm not holding my breath on that one.
I can find plenty on Ebay, but they will be several weeks before they arrive.
Alternatively, I can look at a different wiring option to utilise the on/off/on switch I now have.
What's the general consensus?

On/off/on isn't great at all. Definitely get the right switch. There must be other suppliers of switches in Australia. Trouble is you're also running into the Christmas break, so it's probably going to be a bit slower.

Have you simply tried googling "mini DPDT on/on/on switch"?

Try RS Components Australia. RS is always a good source for decent electrical/electronic parts. Here's one, but you may find others on the site. http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7109876/

Thanks Simon. Considering I deal with that company through work fairly regularly you would have thought they'd be top of mind.
Thanks again.

Other alternatives: RealTone, ALS, GuitarAust