I was supposed to put a wet rag on it???
Printable View
I was supposed to put a wet rag on it???
Don't Flip! I'm sure He meant a quick wipe down with a damp rag or a rag dampened with mineral spirits. It reveals the grain flame and gives you an impression of what it would look like clear coated. there is no build requirement for covering with damp cloth..I believe...Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
If you want to mask something thin like that, and be safe in the knowledge that you won't get anything on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza
Just go to your local art supply store and get some watercolour artist's, paint on latex mask.
As the name implies, you paint it on, do what you have to do, the when you want to remove it just rub it off with your finger
I've got some of that masking fluid Tweakster, but I find its too runny and thin to be effective.
I just used a higher quality masking tape bought at the big green shed.....it was yellow in colour and supposed to be ok for remaining on a job for a long period of time. Left no residue on either of the EX builds which meant the tape was on for at least 4 - 5 months covering the edge and top of the rosewood fret board. Mind you I did cut out a bit of that plasticky stuff the necks were packed in to cover the Fret Board and then brought the tape across from the dot marker edge....you what I mean.
I've bought that blue tape used by car detailer's as well, 3M 1mm 971 tape I think it's called.....rather expensive for what it is.
I used it to cover the binding of my ES-3 neck binding when dying the fret board black with Indian Ink
Muzz,
I am trying my hand at a dingotone burst from black stump to a "hybrid" colour i've made up on a scrap bit of pine. both colours look fine but it doesn't seem to be blending too well in the middle (stark contrast colours). do they blend better after more stain coats or is there a trick to it?
Mate... I really appreciate you coming to me for advice, but I'm not the right person to ask about anything regarding DingoTone. I've had so much trouble using it and tried so many different methods over such a seemingly long time, I don't remember what worked and what didn't anymore.
You could try making a 'blending shade' by combining the two colours into a third YOGOT tub.
Also, don't expect to get the finished burst effect in the first application. I think that's ONE area where I messed up.
Overall, I'm pretty disappointed with my DT experience. To be clear, I'm NOT saying DT isn't a great product. It just doesn't like me or my methods. And I HATE the waiting between coats. If you make a fluff-up, you've got to wait up to a week to fix it. It's intensely frustrating.
One little insight... I wanted a really 'BLACK' black on my builds and had to help the black stump along with Feast Watson Proof Tint black. I could've used 2 full bottles of black stump and still not got it as black as one single coat of FWPT.
Might be be worth putting a question up in the DingoTone section.
It would've been really helpful if there was a tutorial video on this topic when I started this (these) project(s) back at the end of January.
I've seen what you're capable of and I'm confident you'll end up doing an amazing job, and I'm quite chuffed that you thought I could be of help.
Good luck mate.
Well the quality of the quilted maple headstock veneer (from the sam supplier) was of substantially better quality.
Attachment 11350
I'm finally ready to start applying the finish coats on the neck. Already started on the body.
One thing bothering me. The fretboard feels quite rough. I haven't seen any builds where the fretboard needed sanding. Maybe I'm not looking at enough build threads.
How does one go about sanding the fretboard with the frets installed?
There's a couple of posts here showing how I normally do it, using slivers of a radius block, strips of pickguard plastic etc. Work with the grain, not across it, hence the need for smaller and smaller blocks and strips.