set neck joint problem

Not sure what to do about this problem with the neck pocket. I glued in the neck realizing I'd have to deal with this problem, and probably should have sought advice first, but oh well!

On one side the joint looks good:

Attachment 12509

Unfortunately, it does not line up so well on the other side:

Attachment 12510

Not really sure what to do about this. Initially, I thought that I might just use some wood filler and live with the small "step" which at it's worst is about 2 mm. I can't sand it flush because that would sand through the veneer and the binding. I thought about putting in a vertical piece of binding, and sanding it into shape. I don't have any binding, but that might work. My other idea has been to try cut a very thin piece of maple that I could laminate onto the side of the neck and sand down to be flush with the neck and body, using a bit of filler to fill any remaining gaps.

Any other ideas or thoughts on what the best approach is likely to be?

I like the idea of the vertical binding or maple idea.
Someone here is sure to have a bit of either they would send you.
Really for issues the two main solutions are hide it or make it a feature
Alternatively if you could take a small piece out of the bottom binding strip from under the neck, allowing the bottom edge binding to bend inwards more, you could then sand flush

I suppose it depends on your overall finish plan as well, if you are going for a solid finished colour its less an issue than a translucent or natural finish.
I have seen a couple of threads where the shim in similar materials has been done effectively. Check out the ES-3 thread from Tweaky
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ght=Tweaky%27s

He did some great work on a similar issue. That way you can make the edge match the bottom binding (after you sand your fillet) and then you are only left with a little Binding patch job at the top. If you can get a hold of some cream/white binding and some acetone you should be able to fill that as well. Dingo Bass did a broken binding repair like this:
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5952

all depends on how deep you want to go and how much work you want to do. Potentially if its a colour finish you could just use a wood filler?

Fender3x probably best solution is to get some binding same colour, I guess it's cream. Chop it into small pieces and soak it in pure acetone. Eventually it will turn to a liquid state so use this to fill the gap. Then wait for it to cure then sand it flush as you can. Good luck.
As Franken mentions the other gap will have to be filled with wood filler, try and choose a colour that will match

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

Fender3x probably best solution is to get some binding same colour, I guess it's cream. Chop it into small pieces and soak it in pure acetone. Eventually it will turn to a liquid state so use this to fill the gap. Then wait for it to cure then sand it flush as you can. Good luck.
As Franken mentions the other gap will have to be filled with wood filler, try and choose a colour that will match

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To me the binding looks white. I seem to be able to find binding only in large quantities and will take forever to get here... may do that. That may not be much of a problem. This is a very slow build ;-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

I suppose it depends on your overall finish plan as well, if you are going for a solid finished colour its less an issue than a translucent or natural finish.

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The plan is to have a translucent finish... Of course not much else has gone to plan... Thanks for the links. I have added them to my link library ;-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stan

I like the idea of the vertical binding or maple idea.
Someone here is sure to have a bit of either they would send you.
Really for issues the two main solutions are hide it or make it a feature
Alternatively if you could take a small piece out of the bottom binding strip from under the neck, allowing the bottom edge binding to bend inwards more, you could then sand flush

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Took me a couple of reads to understand your "alternatively" idea. That's intriguing. I am inclined to try the maple solution first, since I have a bit of maple. If it doesn't look right, then I may try something with binding. I'll order some binding today. It should get here in August...and if I have not gotten farther by then, I can give that a shot too ;-)

Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

I have seen a couple of threads where the shim in similar materials has been done effectively. Check out the ES-3 thread from Tweaky
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ght=Tweaky%27s

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Took another look at this. I have in mind doing something similar, but gluing the piece to the side of the neck rather than to the body, and then sanding until it's flush with both the body and the neck. I'll need to make an VERY thin wedge to do it. Sanding at the body end will be tricky because of the body veneer. Bit easier on the neck side. If I can't make that fit, will try the binding approach.

It'll look different on the top side and bottom side (either way), but you don't generally look at both sides at the same time anyway. Had a friend in high school who had mismatched hubcaps, but figured since the front and back matched on each side and you could never see both sides at once no one would ever notice ;-)

I have been largely unsuccessful at matching either maple or binding. The binding that came with the body is darker than white, but lighter than cream. I have not been able to match it.

I have cut some thin maple, but it's a fair bit darker.

Best guess is that the binding approach would look better if I could match it... but since I can't not sure what to do?

Any ideas?

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Wood filler or leave as is. Maybe even use a bit of tite bond as the filler as it should dry a light colour if not clear.

Most of these kits with set necks all have joints that are hard to get right. On the only one that I built with a set neck I was paranoid about the glue spewing out everywhere but in hindsight that could have been better as it would have completely filled up all the gap joints that you can wipe away whilst still wet or lightly sand once dry and cured a bit more.