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DAMMIT, it's arrived and it's awesome BUT it has one problem...... THE WOOD HAS GRAIN !!!
How the hell can I paint something the metallic orange I've been planning for 4 months when it's got grain.... It's a cunning ploy to get me to wudtone it instead...Dammit
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-1.jpg
#firstworldproblem :P
Can't have you suffering grain guilt, Mike.
Send it back immediately for a full refund and I'll get you one with uninspiring grain.
If ya want it to be orange, send DB an email (he will probably see this thread anyway!!!), he could mix up a batch of orange Wudtone!!! Plus, the Wudtone will keep the tone and resonance of the wood, meaning a better Axe!!!
You could try replicating the colour DB got on his ES kit that he posted in the Finishing your guitar with Wudtone section?Quote:
Quote from MikeL on March 18, 2013, 16:44
DAMMIT, it's arrived and it's awesome BUT it has one problem...... THE WOOD HAS GRAIN !!!
How the hell can I paint something the metallic orange I've been planning for 4 months when it's got grain.... It's a cunning ploy to get me to wudtone it instead...Dammit
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-1.jpg
Spent today pondering ( while at work ) on how to proceed re colour/finish. When I got home I fitted the neck and sat there with it getting used to the feel and I've decided Steve Vai does not sit down with one of these on his leg, coz man, they cut into you... So step one is a slight rounding of the body edges, specifically on the back with a much increased bevel for the torso and forearm lean areas, more in keeping with Strat body curving.
The scratchplate is pretty rough, with the layers peeling apart on the bridge end, one of the humbuckers fitted on a noticeable angle and a couple of the prefitted screws almost pulling through but no matter, I'm going to replace it completely so I can cut one that fits the lines of the body better.
The only other area I can find fault is the tuning peg holes, there's 2 in particular that are far enough out of alignment to make the pegs look wrong. there are various simple fixes I can apply to this so I'm not concerned but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for correcting the positions if you want to use Wudtone afterwards. Hiding fixes with paint is too easy :)
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-2.jpg
Both the TL-1 kits I have built have had 1 particular tuner hole a mm or two out of alignment. I ignored it and I haven't noticed any disadvantages. After the machine heads and strings went on it's barely noticeable.Quote:
Quote from MikeL on March 19, 2013, 19:37
Spent today pondering ( while at work ) on how to proceed re colour/finish. When I got home I fitted the neck and sat there with it getting used to the feel and I've decided Steve Vai does not sit down with one of these on his leg, coz man, they cut into you... So step one is a slight rounding of the body edges, specifically on the back with a much increased bevel for the torso and forearm lean areas, more in keeping with Strat body curving.
The scratchplate is pretty rough, with the layers peeling apart on the bridge end, one of the humbuckers fitted on a noticeable angle and a couple of the prefitted screws almost pulling through but no matter, I'm going to replace it completely so I can cut one that fits the lines of the body better.
The only other area I can find fault is the tuning peg holes, there's 2 in particular that are far enough out of alignment to make the pegs look wrong. there are various simple fixes I can apply to this so I'm not concerned but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for correcting the positions if you want to use Wudtone afterwards. Hiding fixes with paint is too easy :)
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-2.jpg
The machine heads have a bit if play when you insert them through the headstock holes. So, as long as you ensure the machine heads are all level before you screw them in, you should be right.Quote:
Both the TL-1 kits I have built have had 1 particular tuner hole a mm or two out of alignment. I ignored it and I haven't noticed any disadvantages. After the machine heads and strings went on it's barely noticeable.
Just wanted to add, that is a really nice bit of wood (body and neck). I didn't get to see this one before it shipped, but it looks awesome. Mike, I'll be interested to hear how the left handed Floyd Rosd (yes, Rosd) locking bridge works out. I imagine they don't make many of them.
Thought I'd post something since I've been quiet for a while :D
Here's the SV-1L alongside the 80% finished ST-1
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-3.jpg
As for the Floyd Rosd, Adam, I can't fault it, it's a perfect mirror image but realistically it's only the plate that has been leftyfied.
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-5.jpg
What I have been doing is a bit of sculpting, since this is MY guitar, not Steve Vai's. I think I mentioned in a previous post about how it digs into your thigh if sitting down with it, well not anymore :D the 2 inch clean edge is now a thigh hugging contoured edge.
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-6.jpg
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-8.jpg
Lastly I'm doing the same with the forearm bevel, it's now almost double the original size but I'm going another inch or so more on this.. By the time it's finished it'll be a Stratojem.
http://www.dark-castle.org.au/pitbull/sv1l/sv1l-9.jpg