My EX1-R Explorer Build

Hi all,

This is my first DIY guitar build and the explorer is my favourite body design, so I'm pretty excited for this project. I've started my EX1-R explorer build with a test fit and it all seems pretty good. I had a few questions before I move forward though.

1. Measuring from the inside of the nut to the middle of the saddle seems to give me my 628mm scale length (image 1). Is this the correct way of doing it, and is that all I need to do? Measuring from the inside of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret was 313mm, not 314mm, which I assume is totally fine?

2. I'm a little confused about the neck heel. In profile, the bottom of it seems to have an angle & curve when compared to the very end butt, so depending on which one I place flush it greatly affects the angle of the neck (image 2 & 3). The cavity for the neck is dead flat, so I'm unsure how it should be sitting in the neck pocket. The cross section of the heel has some very slight curving towards the edges as well (image 4).

3. Should the end of the fret board line up with the neck pickup cavity? (image 5). Obviously cutting the end of the neck will mess with my scale length, so I'm not too bothered by it, so just wondering if this is normal?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Nathan

For scale measurement u need to measure the lower end of the nut to top of the saddle on High E side and not middle Of the bridge. Since its a TOM there will be a 3degree angle to base side

2. The glue will sit between the curve of neck and body. Need not do anything for it

3. The neck need not line up with cavity. It has to be fixed according to scale Length. If u need to bring the neck further down and if the heel is hitching against the Puck up cavity ( which is never the case most of the times), then let us know. We can let u know what is needed to be done

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Thanks for the response. In regards to the heel, I take it a should be gluing the neck in with the clamp pressing on the end of the neck where it flattens out at the base?

I took a measurement of the scale between the inside of the nut and the top of the saddle where the string will rest and I'm seeing 625mm. I have some room to play with the intonation screws, but what would normally be done here?

Nathan

Hi Nathan,
+1 for loving the explorer shape, and my first build was an explorer.

Plus from Drashkum's post:

1. I would wind the high e saddle forwards a bit and the low E back a bit, and make sure that 628 mm can be achieved with the high e and about 632 for the low E, and still have room for more adjustments if needed.

2. ?? I'm not sure if that is the norm. But glue should fill up the space.

3. The neck will not line up with the neck pup route. But, you need to ensure the neck pup (with the surround) will fit into the route cavity, and be flush with the end of the neck, and not leave any of the route recess visible.

I don't think there is normally much wiggle room but points 1 and 3 must work together.

U can pull up the neck a bit so that it stays at 628 with saddle moved high E at 75% to the top. U will have little bit of wighle room for Intonation. Usually the bass sides only need longer scale length in compensation for thicker strings For treble side, usually the 628 is spot on.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by nathan

Thanks for the response. In regards to the heel, I take it a should be gluing the neck in with the clamp pressing on the end of the neck where it flattens out at the base?

I took a measurement of the scale between the inside of the nut and the top of the saddle where the string will rest and I'm seeing 625mm. I have some room to play with the intonation screws, but what would normally be done here?

Nathan

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We have an overlapping post !:)

I think the neck should be shifted out of the neck pocket a bit to get the high e 628 mm.

Awesome, thanks for the help guys

To measure the scale length accurately, focus on the distance from the lower end of the nut to the top of the saddle, particularly on the High E side. Keep in mind that, as it's a TOM (Tune-O-Matic) bridge, there will be a slight 3-degree angle on the bass side.

The adhesive will naturally fit between the curvature of the neck and the body, so there's no specific action required in this regard.

It's important to note that the neck doesn't have to align perfectly with the cavity. Instead, it should be adjusted to match the scale length. If you find that the neck needs to be positioned further down, and in rare cases, if the heel is interfering with the pickup cavity, please inform us, and we can provide guidance on the necessary steps. Visit SRD

More AI? With advertising.:mad:

It is well written though!

I am pretty much in agreement with the others, but thought I might be able to contribute a little clarification...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nathan

1. Measuring from the inside of the nut to the middle of the saddle seems to give me my 628mm scale length (image 1). Is this the correct way of doing it, and is that all I need to do? Measuring from the inside of the nut to the middle of the 12th fret was 313mm, not 314mm, which I assume is totally fine?

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I think it's pretty safe to use 628 for the measurement from the bridge-side-of-the-nut to the nut-side-of-the-high-E-saddle, as long as you back it off a hair. Personally, I would have it closer than 75%, because its the low-E I worry about, not the high-E. The high E is the only one for which you have an exact measurement in advance. A true Gibson scale length would be a little closer to 628.65mm. That means if the high-e saddle is 628 with the saddle all the way toward the nut you might have to back it away from the nut by 1/2 mm or so to intonate. As TD indicated, the more important thing is to have enough adjustment toward the strap button on the low-E side. The challenge is the low E where you are never completely sure how much backward adjustment you need until you have it glued and strung.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nathan

2. I'm a little confused about the neck heel. In profile, the bottom of it seems to have an angle & curve when compared to the very end butt, so depending on which one I place flush it greatly affects the angle of the neck (image 2 & 3). The cavity for the neck is dead flat, so I'm unsure how it should be sitting in the neck pocket. The cross section of the heel has some very slight curving towards the edges as well (image 4).

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Most important thing is for the glue to get a good bond on the sides and bottom. If you put your clamp over the frets it should be fine. The thing to check is to make sure that there is enough downward adjustment on the bridge with the neck in place. It's OK if the strings touch the fingerboard with the bridge all the way down. You can always adjust the bridge up. But with the neck clamped if the strings are high with the bridge all the way down, that could be a problem.

I don't think it makes a difference, but FWIW most people (but not all!) put the saddle adjustment screws facing the pickups on T-O-M bridges.

Also, I agree with the others about the coolness of an explorer. I think everyone who has ever seen Eric Clapton playing it has wanted one at one time or another. Good choice! ;-) Also good choice on the black hardware. I usually prefer chrome, but somehow black just seems cool on explorers and T-birds and Firebird basses...