Wood like ash? Angelus Leather Dye

Hi collective wisdom,
I am getting close to starting on my JMA-1 kit, in which the A refers to, an "ash" body.
I am pretty sure that I am going to use Angelus Leather Dye and I would like to do some experiments to learn how to apply it and how to mix two colors, etc.
But, ash boards are hard to find around here and I wonder if ya'all can suggest another sort of wood that would be similar to ash that I can start sloshing dye on to learn what I am doing, before I try it on the guitar. I have cheap pine boards in my basement, but is there anything more similar to ash?

Also, after sanding, should I clean the dust with something like mineral oil or distilled water? And similarly, I have also heard that one should wipe down the wood with water before dyeing to open the grain? Is that a good thing to do? And if so, how long before applying dye and does one need to start soon after, before it dries?

Is any of this the right thing to do or are there any other pre-dye things that I should know about?
Or should I just sand, then dye?

Thanks in advance.

rv

That is assuming that the so called "Ash" body is actually Ash. It could turn out to be "Victorian" ash My Mahogany body turned out to be "philippine" mahogany, which is not much like real mahogany,

If it is anything like my offset that I did (https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11585) it will be the real deal.
Ash tends to be heavy I have noticed. Definitely not one to have strapped on for a long time.
When I am sanding I wet the timber with a damp cloth to raise the grain - when it dries it is nice and smooth. A wipe over with a damp cloth when finished sanding is important to remove any dust. Then give it time to dry out. Timing depends on your climate. I have not wet the timber prior to staining, but I have used spirit based stains.
The most important thing is don't sand too fine prior to staining. Only go to about 240 or 320 grit. Any finer and the timber can struggle to take stain. Practice on a pine board and see how well you go.
Best of luck with it.

Thanks, colin2121.
I appreciate your time and expertise.
I am also going to start learning what I will need to learn to start working on the neck: Maple Neck and Rosewood Fretboard.
Can you recommend any good links or give any advice on how to begin preparing and then finishing it?
I am considering trying to do it natural, but with the headstock front the color of the body (probably blue). But I wonder if dye will bleed over?
Though the JMA-1 kit pic on the Pit Bull site shows an uncut headstock, mine came cut. I was a little disappointed, but I will be able to design a logo, anyway.
I think it is going to be a pretty cool guitar, if I don't screw it up. :)

Thanks again.

I have been known to use a tack cloth to dedust before finishing.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-...cloth_p1673206

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rogerV

Thanks, colin2121.
I appreciate your time and expertise.
I am also going to start learning what I will need to learn to start working on the neck: Maple Neck and Rosewood Fretboard.
Can you recommend any good links or give any advice on how to begin preparing and then finishing it?
I am considering trying to do it natural, but with the headstock front the color of the body (probably blue). But I wonder if dye will bleed over?
Though the JMA-1 kit pic on the Pit Bull site shows an uncut headstock, mine came cut. I was a little disappointed, but I will be able to design a logo, anyway.
I think it is going to be a pretty cool guitar, if I don't screw it up. :)

Thanks again.

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Probably best to have a look through some of the build diaries. There is a wide variety of approaches with the neck.
The JMs do tens to come with the headstock pre cut. Mine was pre cut.
With the rosewood fretboard, don't apply anything to it. I apply a bit of lemon oil occasionally to help keep it clean and to stop the wood drying out.
With the maple neck I usually sand to 320grit and then apply a clear finish. I like satin finish on the neck as I find gloss get a bit sticky when my hand is warm but it is an individual choice.
Best to experiment on some scrap timber with the dye. Bleed might be an issue. One option is to dye from and back of the head stock and keep the neck clear but depends on how much the dye bleeds.
Others might be able to provide some guidance on controlling bleed.

Hi Roger.

I did a JBA recently using Angelus dyes on both the body of the guitar as well as the face of the headstock. My methodology is in the post. It was a journey of learning, but what you're intending on doing is absolutely feasible.

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=12144

Mathew