GMS-7Z Pocket needs sanding?

Hello all, touched on this in my build diary, but thought I may find help here. I'm building a 7-string multiscale kit, and the neck seems to a degree to the right (I think). Here's why:

First, when the neck is fully seated, there is space between the tenon and body on the left (low B) side. It gradually narrows and closes on the right (high e) side.

Second, when the neck humbucker is in, there is space between the fretboard end and the humbucker on the left side. Similar to the tenon and body, it narrows until there is no space on the right. In fact, I have to pull the neck out to fit the right side of the humbucker in. Meaning there is even more space between the tenon and body beneath on the left, and now there's space on the right.

Third, when stringing up the low B and high e strings, on the low B side, there is less than 1/8" of space between the string and edge of the fretboard binding at the first fret, 1/8" at the 5th, 3/16" at the 12th and 1/4" at the 24th. Should be expected, as the fretboard gets wider. But on the low e string side, measuring where the low B hits the same frets because... multiscale), it's about 5/32" from the edge of the binding at all of the frets. The nut starts the high e further from the edge than the low B, but shouldn't the space also gradually increase too as the neck gets wider?

Some pics of tenon to body joint, where the humbucker meets the neck, first and 24th frets with B and e strings on: https://imgur.com/a/Xe2IjGE

The only solution I can think of is to sand the left side of the pocket so the neck can be angled a bit to the left. The neck fits nicely as is, really tight, just want to make sure there's not something I'm missing, I don't mess it all up... Or if I'm making a big deal of nothing.

For the neck, you need the outer string gap to neck edge to be the same on both sides. A bit of force may shift the neck enough, or a thin spacer (maybe tape) on the bottom corner of the neck, or sanding. Remember that small change in the neck pocket will result in a much bigger shift of the headstock end.

For the neck humbucker (and after the neck is sitting correctly) - Is there some wiggle room for the pup? You may need to increase the cavity size a bit so that the pup can be rotated so that it sits flush with the end of the neck. You will need (or want!) to put the pup into place after the neck is on.

Hey Trevor! I did some very light sanding to the left side of the pocket, but not enough to make a difference. I've routed out the cavity for the pickup in a few spaces so that it's at the same angle of the end of the fretboard, so that fits fine.

I measured each end of the nut to the center of each string and they both are about 1/8". However, on the fretboard just below it the low B is 1/16" from the left edge and the high e is 3/16" from the right. Maybe the nut was glued on unevenly? I can feel a hair of space where the nut is proud on the left side of the fretboard and recessed on the right.

https://imgur.com/a/RBeUHP2

Thanks for your help thus far!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by altizerc2196

I measured each end of the nut to the center of each string and they both are about 1/8". However, on the fretboard just below it the low B is 1/16" from the left edge and the high e is 3/16" from the right. Maybe the nut was glued on unevenly? I can feel a hair of space where the nut is proud on the left side of the fretboard and recessed on the right.

https://imgur.com/a/RBeUHP2

---

Looking at the image, I'm not sure it is worth worrying about.

It is very possible that the nut has not been glued on evenly.

However, the nut can easily be removed (normally), but it could cause some damage to the headstock finish. I assume the multiscale nut fits like a G-style nut. So, it can be removed by giving it a gentle wack (away from the fretboard) with a hammer and a small block of wood. I would run a blade around the edge of the nut first so that there is less chance of damaging the finish. Once removed clean up the nut area (and the base of the nut) with a file or sandpaper and then glue the nut back in with wood glue (not CA glue apparently!)

Quite often I will remove the nut before I start work on the neck. Then there is no chance of getting finish on it, I can sand down the base if the string slots have a very high action, change to a bone nut etc. It is good to know how to remove a nut!

Thanks Trevor! I actually knocked off the nut while level-sanding the frets and didn't think to keep it off while staining 🤦*♂️I've only done 1 coat of tru oil filler & sealer, so didn't affect the finish when removing.

Was actually thinking about replacing the nut with one of these to match the black hardware: https://graphtech.com/products/black...40103275233303

Do you know if nut angle varies widely on multiscale guitars? The same brand also has a blank to cut your own slots, could go that route. Also I have some deer antlers that could make a pretty good bone nut 🤔 though pre-slotted would be nice to not buy all the tools needed to make and slot a nut.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by altizerc2196

Was actually thinking about replacing the nut with one of these to match the black hardware: https://graphtech.com/products/black...40103275233303

Do you know if nut angle varies widely on multiscale guitars? The same brand also has a blank to cut your own slots, could go that route. Also I have some deer antlers that could make a pretty good bone nut 🤔 though pre-slotted would be nice to not buy all the tools needed to make and slot a nut.

---

Sorry, but I cannot help with that question. Hopefully others will pitch in!

I would also be checking if the width of the nut matches the width at the top of the fretboard (as that would affect the string spacing on the PB neck).

I do know that good quality nut slotting tools are quite expensive - but possibly worth considering if you are intending to do a number of kits. Most nuts will need to slotted to get a good string action.

Hi Carson, I've been tracking your build today as I'm about to start the same project. Haven't started my build diary yet! But I'll chime in here: The angles on multiscale guitar frets do vary a bit by brand--as defined by where the first perfectly straight (vertical) fret is.

That said, I think you can make that TUSQ nut work, especially if you are willing to file the nut a bit. Those notches are good for keeping the spacing equivalent, but I've found they need some filing no matter what.

I put a black tusq on a previous project and I love it for pinch harmonics. Regardless, I look forward to seeing what you do and I love that cool weathered purple.

-TS