Partly depends on whether you use the tone pots much and/or could live with a common tone. It just means the single tone pot is connected to the output of the 3-way switch, rather than having two, each connected to the input (or output if you prefer '50s wiring) of the associated volume pot.
One other aspect of mixing and matching normal and switched pots is making sure that they all have the same number of splines on the shaft, so you can fit the same knobs to them all! That Axetec push/push pot has a 24-spline shaft.
Update from the past couple of days...
Headstock taped up and 5 coats of gloss black nitro sprayed. Turned out quite well but have flattened it back and will add a few more coats to try and achieve a piano black head stock. Minor bleeding on 2 edges which was to be expected but I'd planned to add a copper pinstripe around the edge of the head stock so this will cover up the bleed anyway so no issue.
Another couple of layers of copper added to the body, rubbed back lightly with 2000 grit wet/dry and it was looking pretty sweet. 2 hours of scrapped binding later and I've decided that the f hole binding should only be visible inside the f hole and not on the top surface. It is too white when I mocked all components in place so the next couple of layers will cover the f hole binding and wont be scrapped back
Slimline DPDT POT ordered and an update on the tuners & nut from Adam received so now its down to Parcelforce
Almost a shame to age the copper. You could always let time and sweat do that for you!
It's too bright with the new copper look. Definitely being tarnished. Think bad penny and not new penny lol
I don't know, I reckon the new penny is pretty cool. Especially if it were under a few layers of lacquer, but your call. Control knobs look good, where did you source them?
Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
It'll age and tarnish on it's own. I personally would leave it and let it develop naturally. Looks great.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Thanks for he feedback guys. I'm not a new, shiny kinda guy so i'll stick with the tarnish and varnish lol. Promise it will be clear lacquer and not varnish lads. The leaf is super thin so it will start to wear off quickly if not lacquered and left to tarnish naturally also.
The knobs are class. I got them off a guy on ebay. They are speed knobs with a penny, a ring / washers and a Celtic button fixed to them. If you search for celtic speed knobs you will come across their stuff. Has some lovely steampunk stuff and was really easy to deal with. Trying to find something suitable for the headstock motif still but think it will be a silver celtic earing
Got another few coats of black on the headstock last night after flattening it back and i'm really impressed. Can see my big ugly face reflected in it already and still another round of flattening and painting to go.
Yes, impractical to leave it natural. However, it should be possible to fix copper sheeting (as opposed to foil) on the top, add some copper nails and go for a full steampunk look that you could leave bare.
Well that was a fun weekend in the shed... not quite sure what stage I am at anymore with the guitar though.
On the positive side there is an additional coat of Danish oil on the back of the body and the middle of the neck as they were slightly lighter than the rest of the oiled sections. Looking the part now and just need a final coat once the neck and body are glued. Neck pocket should be good now after a light sand. The pictures should show the joint on both sides and the clamp should pull the last 1mm out of the gap. Check done with a straight edge along the frets and the bridge height looks to be suitable for a nice playing action.
Another few coats on the headstock and its come up really well so I added the copper detail round the edge to hind any bleed. Really happy with how this has turned out and just needs a little bit of tarnish added.
Now the body... re-coppered the f holes and much happier without so much white showing. Decided to do a trial run on the tarnishing and that's were the problem started... I really like how it has turned out but there are only 3 layers of copper on so far and the plan was always to add 6 as this would equal about 3 layers of nitro paint. Do I knock it back, add 3 more layers and retarnish before the lacquer or just go for the lacquer now??? Mock fitted all hardware and will let it sit for a day or 2 so I can decide. The copper will all darken slightly when the lacquer is added (well it did on trial runs) but still a great amount of reflective copper visible.
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