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Thread: Irish ES-1 / 335 Copper Top

  1. #51
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Great stuff. We could really do with a full-length shot of it to see it in all its glory.

    You may find that with the copper top, the pots are grounding the copper, which in turn is grounding the bridge and stop-bar.

    Locking tuners - you've got far too much string round most of the posts. Less of an issue when there's no trem, but the idea is that you have minimal string wound round the post. To fit a string, line the hole up so that its in line with the string, pull it as tight as you can and then lock it. You should be able to get it up to tension within 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn of the post. Whilst you need 2-3 turns for standard tuners to keep the strings held well, it's the interaction between wraps (especially on wound strings) when you apply and release tension (such as bending strings or using a trem) that can allow a bit of movement to occur between the wrapped turns, allowing the string tension to change and so go out of tune a bit. With a locking tuner, all the sting holding is done by the lock, so you don't need any wraps around the post. Also makes it slightly quicker to change strings.

  2. #52
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    Thanks DarkMark.

    Why do it the same way as other have? We'd all be still sitting in a cave if no one went to see what was over that hill.

  3. #53
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    Full Length

    Hi Simon,
    Thanks for the comments.
    Never used locking tuners before and when fitting the string I didn't really see the advantage over 'normal' tuners but when you explain it like you did I can see the point. I'm not a string breaker and even the G string tuning has been really stable with a new set of string on and playing a lot of bending to try and find if there are any dull spots on the frets. None found.

    Was going to take a few better photos tonight or tomorrow as I had too many out of focus ones last night. Once I have the photos i'm happy with i'll post in the gallery and send it in for February GOTM. Here are a couple of 'soft focus' shots lol
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  4. Liked by: Tweaky

  5. #54
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    And upright with the amps
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  6. #55
    Member Tweaky's Avatar
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    Looks very Gnarly [cool]
    I've just Re-Started my modified ES1 build [Re Routed for Kinman P90's- had to take 5mm off the thickness of the neck tongue because the V 2 Kinman P90's pickup's are deeper than Humbuckers....New V3 Kinman P90's are slimmer so won't need that mod]

    I also extended the neck heel so it extends over the body binding, like it does on my Gibson ES 347 [more comfortable as well]
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    Something you might want to consider if you find tuning problems with your new build [It's a Gibson neck set angle/ tuning peg problem common to all Gibsons], and is something I have designed out of my ES-1 build, once I saw the "String Butler"

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPpsAGdAHKE

    You don't need to buy a String Butler, you can easily make and install your own [Less cumbersome version] in the build.

    To do it you need two lengths of Brass tube, easily bought online from hobby shops.
    Outer diameter one should be 6.35mm, inner diameter one should be 5.56mm, get Brass wood screws that have a head slightly larger than 6.35mm [pretty much stock size that is easy to find] that will hold the two brass rod assemblies together once screwed down.

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    You just cut the tube lengths to the required length, place them appropriately, and just screw them down....I small amount of lubricant like WD40 sprayed between the brass tube might help things, but TBH I doubt it would be needed.

    The whole design works similar to a the String Butler, but without the expense, and you can sort it to suite your individual Guitar build

    You got to love KIT Guitars, if only for the scope of invention
    Last edited by Tweaky; 03-01-2020 at 11:58 AM.

  7. #56
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    This has come up great! Really digging it...I'll have to do a hollow body at some point.

    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  8. #57
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    Hi Tweaky, thanks for the comment. My other band guitarist has a Gibson Les Paul and his G string is always hanging out of tune. He bought and fitted a string butler and it helps the problem somewhat but he still struggles with maintaining tuning stability. This was something that I was concerned about but so far so good. Have been bending the sh!te out of the strings and going from inside to outside to see how this affects stability. Would be interested in seeing your design so fire a photo of it fitted up if you can.

  9. #58
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    Thanks Sonic Mountain. The copper and patina colour changes quite a lot depending on the light. All the finished pictures have been taken at night under artificial light so i'll have to get a few in natural light at the weekend and put them up

  10. #59
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    IMO those string butler things are a solution looking for a problem. The key to stable tuning is all about having properly cut nut slots. Invest in a good set of nut files and you'll have guitars that stay in tune quite happily. If the nut is poorly cut or too narrow for the string (a problem I encountered on my 2018 LP Classic Gold Top) then you'll have tuning problems regardless of what additional hardware you fit.

    There are no tuning stability problems at all on my Gibsons (3x LP, 1 x Flying V, 1 x Firebird and 1 x CW acoustic) or my other guitars with Gibson style headstocks. The Gibson style headstock design will certainly exacerbate the problems of a badly cut nut, but cut that nut correctly and there is no problem to make worse.

  11. #60
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    Exacerbate - great word Simon. Now my word of the day.

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