ES-12G - Can I fix this messed up staining job

[wazkelly]

I would have a go at doing Timber mate filling the crack, leave for at least 24 hours to fully cure & dry out before sanding back, then leave for another few days.

If the moisture/water content is too high when applying stain over timbermate it will rehydrate and turn to crap real fast.

There are a couple of ideas to contemplate:

1. very light, almost dry dabbing stain on with a small square of cotton - this may require a few attempts to allow each application to fully dry out.
2. use stain as the liquid required to turn firm timbermate into a filler slurry of the desired colour - you may need to be a couple of shades darker that what you think is necessary. If it turns out a fraction darker that stlll does the job of hiding light coloured veneer joins.

Cheers, Waz

[Simon Barden]

I have no good answers. I'd either just try colouring as previously suggested, then fill in with whatever clear finish you're using, or else try again but use a solvent-based grain filler that won't be affected by the water in the stain.

[wazkelly]

Using water based stains with Timber Mate is very challenging but if you want the filler to absorb some colour there aren't too many other choices.

[Simon Barden]

Probably best to dye the timbermate first before applying it.

[McCreed]

Would getting some sealer in there help adhesion?

I can't imagine it would. (wood??? ) Typically bonding to timber is best achieved with clean natural fibres exposed. It would be akin to trying to glue two pieces of painted timber together.

This won't help with your adhesion issue, but since your stamp ink is water based, you can also use it to tint the Timbermate prior to application.