My first build GTL-1

[Sime O]

So today I gave it a bit more of a sand then back to the wire brush and I think it has come up a treat. The texture of the grain is you beaut and I think with a good drink of oil the colour of the timber should come back beautifully.
I’m in two minds about which side I like best. I think the back is going to look awesome with that glimmer of timber showing thru the char, yet I the face, despite the spotting of char, once finished should really bloom.
I’d be interested to hear everyone else’s thoughts/preferences.

[Simon_B]

I polished mine for the first time - highly recommended https://i.imgur.com/gNl8mJh.jpg

[Simon Barden]

No I don’t. And that was probably going to be my next question, if the strings go thru the holes in the back of the Tele bridge. I guess that’s a no then.

The strings don't have to go through the back of the bridge, and you certainly wouldn't want them to with a Bigsby. They'd have to go over the top of the rear of the bridge, but still have to have a decent string break angle as the strings went over the saddles. Which means having the saddles pretty high up and which in turn means having a greater than normal neck angle.

But you will probably be much better off by buying a new bridge and bridge plate. https://www.realparts.com.au/bridges...te-chrome.html and https://www.realparts.com.au/bridges...ne-chrome.html

You'll probably find cheaper parts when shopping around, but use the above as a reference.

I know that Realparts suggest a Mustang bridge, but their Mustang-style bridge has a 7.25" radius on the saddles. https://www.realparts.com.au/bridges...ge-chrome.html


But your neck radius is 12", so you'd always have to compromise on the action with the outer Es being significantly higher off the board than the middle strings. So a 12" radius bridge is a much better choice, and with a trem, I'd go roller saddles over standard fixed saddles on a Tune-O-Matic style bridge.

[Sime O]

First coat of oil, starting to come alive.

[Sime O]

Thanks Simon, that’s given me a lot to think about. I only bought the bigsby as I thought it was a cheap trem system as it was $36.
Had I realised I would have to add an extra $100 dollars to it I wouldn’t have bought it. I think I’m going to leave it off for now as I really don’t want to spend the extra cash.

[Sime O]

So assembling is just around the corner, and I’m not a fan of the pick guard. Is there anything I should know before going ahead without one. Would the screws extend enough?

[Simon Barden]

Well, to bottom mount the neck pickup you'd almost certainly need to get some suitable length wood screws to screw the pickup down, and either fit springs under the pickup, or else some stiff foam, in order to raise the pickup high enough and support it. Personally I'd use foam, but then I've already got several sheets of it of different thicknesses.

So I suggest putting some card under the pickup until it's at roughly the right height (just below the top of the fretboard - wood, not the frets) and measuring the distance between the top on the pickup base where the screws will go in from and the bottom of the cavity, then add on a bit more for the screw to bite into the wood. You should be able to calculate the thickness of the wood at the bottom of the pocket. Measure the width of the existing pickup mounting machine screw and get pan-head screws the same width. Obviously, you won't want the screws too long, or they'll go through the body. Or too short, otherwise you won't be able to fix the pickup securely.

But you'll probably be better off getting a suitable pickup ring and fitting that. Here's one for reference, but look around on Amazon or eBay for cheaper versions. Being in the UK, I'll get different options to you, so no point me listing other stuff. https://www.realparts.com.au/hardwar...ng-chrome.html



Make sure that it's for a Telecaster neck pickup, though, as most of this type are for Strats with their longer pickups, which won't work with a Tele-sized pup.

[jugglindan]

My G&L uses screws and springs to attach the single coils to the bottom of the pickup cavity. Getting the screw length exactly right is key. Personally I think that pickup rings look better as they hide the gaps and pickup wires. Also, I didn't realise my screws were getting so rusty.

[FrankenWashie]

I'm a fan of leaving wood grain showing as much as possible, given the lengths you've gone to with your stylised finish I'd direct mount.
But that is totally an "Eye of the beholder" type of deal.
Mock up a PUp ring in cardboard or something and use it to see what you think.

[Sime O]

I’ve been a bit slack lately with the posts. So I got a neck pick up ring, had to shim quite a lot as the routing didn’t match the size of the ring. But it looks fine. I watched a video by Darrell Braun on modding a Tele bridge to accept a bigsby and had a go. The files I had didn’t do a good job and I wasn’t too straight with it so opted for the angle grinder. It’s not pretty as i had plenty of beer by that stage, but it works. Its all wired up I just don’t have an amp as yet to test my wiring. Too close to Christmas to be spending money. It plays well, I’m no expert, haven’t picked up a guitar in years so I don’t know the finer points, but I’m happy with it.