So, truss rod cover. Its been suggested to me it looks too simple and cheap in contrast with the rest. I've got plenty of scraps of the bwb sandwich I used for the pickup rings, so its not a problem to fabricate something else, at least if not too complicated, but what shape? I really dont like the standard Gibsxn style. I suppose I could make it wider with two separate corner radii, which would better echo the pickup shape, or maybe a larger version of the current one... any other suggestions?
Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
Maybe just a bit wider, and widening out towards the nut. Get the screw hole properly centred and certainly use a smaller screw to fix it. The current one does look rather industrial.
Like this? I think it does look a little better, although I don't know why. Think it probably needs shortening a little.
Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
Yes, that just looks more natural to me. No idea why, it just does.
1+Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Irritations:
1) it takes just as long for a finish of tru oil on the back of the headstock to harden enough to burnish as it does for the whole guitar...
2) after spending too much time in my life removing recalcitrant case screws from motorcycles, I've developed the habit of immediately chucking cross head screws that were hard to remove - eg tuner screws on maple headstocks. Its saves a lot of aggravation. But I do wish I'd kept just one so I could use it for the truss rod cover. I have scratch plate screws, but they look too big, so the new cover is held on with a tiny black one which doesn't look right either.
Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
In the words of the immortal (or was it immoral?) Bill Clinton, "I feel your pain."
It is totally sensible to throw out stripped case screws, or any other stripped screws, as well as most screws that have come out of maple. I have way too many of these little suckers because it's better for my mental health to chuck the old ones and only put in nicely waxed fresh ones. So I have gotten used to just buying a box of that ever I need.
With regard to finishing...the only satisfaction is to know you are in good company.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Well, we're getting there.
Jobs left are
- Treat the fingerboard with some penetrating epoxy sealer, because I'm not happy about the stability of the fibres of the artificial rosewood.
- Setup
- Chrome or stainless steel screw for the truss rod cover
- And some decent strings.
Interesting lesson here about colours. and photographs. Those photos were taken a few seconds apart with a tablet, all on the same carpet, but look how much the blue carpet varies in tone in the photos, and all because the camera electronics were playing with colour balance.
My tip for lining aligning the tuners is to get something dead straight with a reflective surface and align it across the tuner heads. Then set the tuners up so each corner is touching. Only works with this style of tuner of course.
I'm not unhappy with the aesthetics. A cherry or something dye job might have been nice, but the simple tru oil on maple has a certain appeal too, gives it a kinda vintage look I think. A scratch plate might have added to the vintage ethos, and I did consider making one, but the way I play it would have been 100% cosmetic. Were I doing one from scratch I think I'd get it with no controls drilled, and have the controls on the scratchplate like some Framus Star Basses. I should note the Framus Star was the bass for teenagers to have when I was about 15, Fenders being far too expensive to consider.
So, variations from the standard kit.
Hipshot bridge screwed down flat to extra long ferrules glued into the body. Body scraped back under the bridge so it sits flat.
Slightly different pickup positioning.
Non-kit Artec pickups.
Home made sandwich pickup rings and truss rod cover
Two vol, one tone pot, amber knobs
Pot positions juggles so controls are in a line
Coil tap switch for bridge pickup
Coil tap/phase switch for neck pickup
Narrower tuners
Slightly reshaped headstock
Headstock logo
"Binding" on the sides of the neck pocket to disguise shims
Last edited by JimC; 19-12-2019 at 11:22 PM.
Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
Looking quite good. As to aesthetics it looks good. I like the in line controls. Sort of T-bird-ish. I tried and failed to get cherry at one point. Stains can fail as can almost any clear finish on the flame maple veneer--which is plenty fancy finished natural. Add to which that you are part of a very exclusive club that has gotten a good clear finish that super thin veneer, so a victory right there. On the build front you also may have solved the bridge pull out problem is a very solid way. So pretty nice all the way round!
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Great job! love it
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