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Thread: Pre Owned ESB4.

  1. #31
    Member JimC's Avatar
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    So it might actually be easier if I put my normal semi-rigid earth between the pots? I'm going to have 3 pots in a line in the top row, and two switches in the bottom. The pots are, if I got the modified hole right, exactly in a line and evenly spaced. The two original holes are 1mm too large for the pots so there's a bit of leeway.
    Last edited by JimC; 22-10-2019 at 12:26 AM.

  2. #32
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Indeed. You want something fairly rigid to run around the outside of the f-hole between the top and bottom holes.

  3. #33
    Member JimC's Avatar
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    Ahh, that's a good point, I guess I do want to route the wiring clear of the f hole somehow for aesthetics.
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    Last edited by JimC; 22-10-2019 at 12:48 AM.

  4. #34
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    Have a look at the Guns & Guitars build at around the 4 minute mark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9yDJiGg4RY

    He shows and describes how he made the job of getting the wiring in a bit easier.

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  6. #35
    Mentor fender3x's Avatar
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    I am just about to do the same thing. I did a rubbing of the ESB-4 controls, from which I made a template that I kept as a PDF for proportion. I glued that onto a thin piece of pressboard. And that's the template I've been using. I don't know how to upload a PDF to the forum, but if you PM me an email address I'll send it to you. Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #36
    Member JimC's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer, but I've subtly juggled the pot position within the limits of knob concealment, plus I'm not sure i trust every one to be the same!!

  8. #37
    Mentor fender3x's Avatar
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    No worries. FWIW I checked the hole placement and it is identical on my Pitbull kit and on the Fretwire body I am now working on. But YMMV ;-)

    The G&G video was interesting to me in a couple of reasons. First I have one of their bodies. It is VERY similar to the PB body. Pickup position is a little further toward the neck, but the distance between them is the same. Control spacing is identical, center block is too narrow, and the neck pocket was slightly off center--just like my PB kit, and same super thin veneer on top. Biggest differences were that holes for the bridge were drilled slightly too large. Also the f-holes are slightly larger. On the PB I could not fit full sized pots through. On the FW kit I just barely can...but I didn't. I went with minis because they are still easier to get through the hole.

    The other thing, of course, is the bridge issues. Even he could not get it to sit properly. And I am guessing that the guys at FW hand picked it for him, whereas mine was a factory 2nd.

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  9. #38
    Member JimC's Avatar
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    Yes, Simon spent a fair bit of time sorting out the alignment on my kit, and I've spent a good bit of time playing with the neck angle. I'm still not confident its right for this bridge. I think I'll need to make up some sort of jig that I can use to clamp the neck in place repeatably and still try out all the bridge and pickup height and all while its clamped.

  10. #39
    Mentor fender3x's Avatar
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    I think that is wise.

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  11. #40
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    A G-clamp and two bits of string do for most people here.

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