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Thread: MBM-1F - Oops! All Switches

  1. #11
    Member christodav's Avatar
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    Looks great so far. I don't mind the veneer either.
    I personally wouldn't use truoil on a body ever again after using gluboost. I would be concerned about Truoil changing that wonderful colour you have going there. the yellowing effect of the Truoil might mess with the purple dye too much. I hope it doesn't

    Chris

  2. #12
    Member ILRGuitars's Avatar
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    I agree with Christodav. Use a clear coat.

  3. #13
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Just in case you haven’t got the message yet...don’t use Tru Oil. Yellow + blue = green.

  4. #14
    Alright, seems like a pretty major consensus here. I was suspecting that ot should be ok as my last one wasnt tinted too much by its tru oil coat but it is a quite different purple. I will test on my other test pieces, but in that case, what clear coats would people recommend? Had mediocre experiences with a rattle can clear before, but am happy to hear what you guys have to suggest

  5. #15
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Christodav has a similar coloured guitar which he used ‘clear coat’ on. Perhaps he could drop a reply here and let us know what was used.

  6. #16
    I did a curiosity about my switching options (since I know I'm going overboard with it, and even though I do realise I won't end up using most of them cos it's just impractical but still)

    For each pickup, 4-way plus Series/Split/Parallel on Rails will be 10 options, 20 so far

    Then 10x10 for both pickups together in Series, plus another 100 in parallel. Add 200.

    Same again for those, but with Neck out of Phase. Add another 200

    So if I'm not mistaken, I have:

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  7. #17
    Headstock shaped, and neck stained. Actual colour is pretty similar to the body, but indoor lighting so will take outdoor pictures tomorrow. Really happy with the grain and variation throughout the neck (a bit of the variation on the neck though compared to the headstock is because it's less dry, so those two parts will even up to one another by tomorrow)

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  8. #18
    Looks like I shouldn't even need to take anything extra wood out, just gonna be a little squished

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  9. #19
    Whuff am I bad at this getting things done in a timely manner stuff.

    Ok, so I opted for some Self-levelling epoxy for the top. Its not back to a mirror gloss, just at a nice matte. As usual, mediocre indoor night-lighting doesn't show off the colour or the finish super well. I went Tru-Oil on the back and sides because its easy, and I hit a point of "I just need to get this done"

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    All the electrics fit on now, and it's wiring time next

  10. #20
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    That's a huge wiring job... Is it worth prototyping it up and seeing what's useful and what isn't? Something I did once with my Telecaster was to build a sort of external control cavity out of plastic card, and wire options into that and see what combinations I liked and didn't. It just screwed into the standard holes. Having it external meant it was much easier to wire up and much less hassle to try things. Also I didn't try to wire all the options up at once, just tried one kind of control at a time to see how I liked it. With my standard of soldering etc it would have been a nightmare trying to debug the entire lot. I also had a bit of tag board in there with major components on to make connecting and disconnecting easier...

    'course if your eyes and soldering are better than mine it maybe that its no big deal to do all that in place - if so, carry on!
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    Last edited by JimC; 19-01-2020 at 07:58 PM.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass

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