GST-1 second build

[phrozin]

FCD,
re: Septone Ac Laq, that is my my preferred rattle can clear coat (I think Sonic Mountain's also).

I like it better than the Duplicoclor clear, but the Duplicolor base coats are fine IME.

I use sca clear $11.99 have used it on every build I use a can the thing I really like is its cheap and doesn't bleach out, theres no real difference between them don't get caught up in brand crap all rattle cans use a retarder in them so there going to shine good out of the can, of course the best is with a gun and a medium to slow thinner is best but none are any different after the cut and polish I'm surprised Phil would say that but your welcome to see how mine turned out

I'm currently doing some stuff in .008 and .015 blue candy and candy apple red flake and candy apple powder to make up concentrate and red, blue and silver pearl powders and it's expensive stuff wasting it isn't an option and using sca clear as the medium its what I think about there branded paints 😁



https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...100401#start=2

[FCD]

Hi All,

Thanks for all the advice. I now have a basic method that I can follow which is the main thing

[FCD]

Hi All,

Had a go at some clear coat on the guitar and waiting for a few coats to dry. I will try a few more coats in a couple of days. When I sand in between coats I will obviously get some Matt areas. Is the idea to get the whole guitar to have a Matt (level finish) or can I just give it a little scuff in between my coats and lay more clear on top? I am concerned about cutting through to the fabric if I try and level it out during the clear coat process.

[Simon Barden]

Sanding between clear coats is mainly to remove dust and small balls of lacquer, so do it very lightly with 320 grit. I'd build up the lacquer depth considerably before sanding down flat. If you do sand through to the fabric then there's no coming back (unless it's under the scratchplate). And yes, you will want an even matt finish before you start polishing. No orange peel if you can help it, so hold the body up to a light at a shallow angle (so the light looks just like the sun coming up over the body) which will highlight any shiny pits still remaining that need further sanding to remove. If you still have shiny pits, then you still have a depth of lacquer over the fabric, so it's OK to keep sanding; but do it carefully. Do a little at time and keep checking.

[FCD]

Thanks for the tips Simon,

Great finishing advise there that I can use once I have applied all my clear coats. So I am guessing that when I sand in between my clear coats before I get to the finishing stage I am able to just lightly scuff the surface and lay more clear on top.

[Simon Barden]

Yes. If you leave it a few days between coats, then some light sanding is recommended to help the finish stick. But within a few hours, there isn't much need as the solvent in the new coat is enough to stick it to the layer underneath as it hasn't had time to really harden.

[FCD]

Hi All,

Attached a few photos of my progress with clear coat. Starting to take shape but I will have a few drips to deal with once this has cured for a little while. May have another go and add a couple of coats to this as I am super concerned that I will cut through and hit the fabric. Then it’s game over and a complete restart. Any tips for knowing when I have enough clear on?

[RocknRolf]

Hey FCD,
From my experience with surfboards, which is really similair:

- The smoother your product before finishing coats, the less likely you are to burn through.
- The more systematic you work, (i.e.: equal movements with every grid, equal number of strokes in every routine, equal pressure over your sanding block or hand) the more aware you are of what you are doing.
- Less experience translates to spending a bit more time with a higher grid to get the feeling.

From the experience of cutting back on my body after the second can, 2 weeks ago: I'd say if your body was smooth (no high spots) you should be able to get away with 2 cans. If it wasn't smooth like mine, 3-4 cans.
I felt like I had enough with 3 cans but added the 4th to be sure, as you say "Then it’s game over and a complete restart"

Asking this is basically asking how to tell when an egg is boiled medium-soft without the use of a timer.

[Simon Barden]

The answer to which is to have multiple eggs in the saucepan, and take one out at regular intervals until you get one that's medium-soft.

That fabric is an unknown quantity as to how many clear coats it takes just to fill up the pores in the fabric. You could try looking at the edge of the top surfaces by the cavities to see if you can see a depth of clear over the fabric. But you know that all the fabric is currently covered over, so I'd give it one more can on the top and then fully sand back.

[FCD]

Thanks for the advice Simon and Rolf,

Seems like I got ahead of myself. Had a look this morning and seemed to get some bubbling in the finish on the front. Looks like I will need to sand back and do a complete restart!

Was really angry for a moment or two but can’t change it now. Will probably give it a rest for a week or so before I totally sand it back and start again.