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Thread: My First Build EXM-1

  1. #31
    Thanks Oby. My main reason for asking was whether there is one product which does both compounding and polishing. I don’t mind spending on the Meguair’s compound, but coupling that with the Polish seems a bit much for me as a student. In your experience is polish alone abrasive enough to remove wet sanding scratches?

  2. #32
    Technically polish doesn't remove any paint it just fills very minute scratches like swirl marks from compounding. It won't fill scratches from wet sanding unless you finished with something like 10,000 grit paper which you're not going to find in normal retail shops. 2000 grit is probably the finest you'll get in a retail shop.
    I always wet sand with 1200 first and then quickly change to 1500. Most decent compounds claim to remove 1200 grit but that assumes you sand perfectly and the edge of your sandpaper isn't dragging deeper marks. I find the Meguiars always gets rid of 1500 grit for me.
    You can get all-in-one products but I've never been totally happy with any of them.
    Also I use a dual action polishing machine and maybe because I've been doing it a while I don't get swirl marks. For me the only reason I use polish is because it helps sealants and waxes adhere stronger. For small jobs and on guitars I use a mini DA adapter that attaches to a normal drill also from Meguiars. I think they discontinued unfortunately but you might still find them in some shops.

  3. #33
    Hey Everyone,

    I’ve been off the built the last few weeks, painfully waiting for solvents to evaporate from the clear. In the meantime, I’ve been creating decals for the headstock, and was wondering when to put them on. Immediately after wet sanding the headstock, prior to compounding and polishing, or after everything is brought to a mirror stage, then just placing it at the very end?

    Regards

  4. #34
    Member Joe3334's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sachin View Post
    Hey Everyone,

    I’ve been off the built the last few weeks, painfully waiting for solvents to evaporate from the clear. In the meantime, I’ve been creating decals for the headstock, and was wondering when to put them on. Immediately after wet sanding the headstock, prior to compounding and polishing, or after everything is brought to a mirror stage, then just placing it at the very end?

    Regards
    Is the decal like a sticker or is it one of those waterslide style decals? If a sticker, I stick it on after I’m completely done with the entire finishing process. If it’s a waterslide, some people apply the decal and then proceed to spray more coats of clear over in order to blend in the edges of the decal with the finish so that everything is level and pretty.

    If it is a waterslide decal and you don’t wish to apply it and then spray more coats of clear, I’d suggest finishing the entire finishing process and then applying the decal, I don’t think it would be a good idea to apply the decal and then basically attack it with whatever device you’d be using when polishing etc.
    Last edited by Joe3334; 13-10-2019 at 03:59 PM.

  5. #35
    As Joe3334 said depends if it's waterslide or sticker.
    For starters with a waterslide decal you need to seal it with clear before you use it otherwise the ink will run off the decal when you soak it in water. Then you really want to seal it on the head after you apply it otherwise it can come off or get scratched easily when you're re-stringing. Apply it after wet sanding but don't polish until the very end when everything is finished.
    Also it can be a pain but worth the effort doing multiple coats and sanding and repeating over and over until you can't see any edge around the decal. That's if you want a pro factory-like finish. Otherwise it just looks like a sticker.
    It's easier to blend the edge if you're using an enamel like Cabot's but not as easy with acrylic lacquer. Whichever clear you use just remember not to mix them unless you want a wrinkle finish like the dashboard on a classic car.

    If it's a sticker that's dead easy. Just put it on at the very end after polishing.

  6. #36
    Hi all,

    It was a long wait until the clear coat had cured, or at least sufficiently dried, but I finally felt it was time for wet sanding and began the polishing process, ending with Meguairs ultimate compound to achieve a lustrous shine. Now I’m about to finish the shielding of the cavities once my exams are finished, but here’s a little sneak peak at what might be the end result. The guitar looks kinda unglu in the photo, but trust me, it’s beautiful in person.

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  7. #37
    Torn between what tailpiece to put on. Photos are pretty bad but what are your verdicts between the snake or the bar?

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  8. #38
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Hah wow. I'd go the snake! You can always swap it later. Looks nuts. In a good way.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  9. #39

  10. #40
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    A snake tail piece won't look right on most guitars but on this one it looks great!

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