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Thread: Third Build ES-3

  1. #11
    Turned out really well. Out of curiosity may I ask what poly youíre using and how you plan to apply it?

  2. #12
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    This was treated with about 15 coats of Feast and Watsonís wipe on poly. Very easy to use just wipe on with a cloth, wait 6 hours, a light sand then recoat. Goes on thin and builds up gradually.
    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3

  3. #13
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Assembled

    Put on the hardware including a floating bridge I made (it is a jazz guitar after all) out of tas oak stained with black stain and a tune o matic bridge I had spare. Needed a lot of sanding to the body profile as the profile of the bridge is quite low to get the action right.

    Looks OK except there is some gaps in the neck joins. I am tossing up filling it with superglue gel or mixing wood dust with some wood glue. I think superglue gel would be easiest as I think a clear finish would look like the poly coating. The wood dust would probably need some dye and finishing. Any opinions would be appreciated.
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    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3

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  5. #14
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Nice work on the floating bridge, I know what youíve gone through to get that action usable. I have re-angled the neck on my 3rd build based on my previous two set necks.
    Something to consider...will the solvents in your super glue react with your poly? I donít know, but I would test it first.
    Me, I would embark on a very slow and painstaking journey of filling the gaps with more poly and/or wedging in some veneer.
    Is natural timber mate wood filler followed by stain an option?

  6. #15
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Superglue shouldn't react with polyurethane - you can use it to fill-in chips in poly finishes. But if you then sand it down and smooth and polish it, then it can become very clear. So you'll probably see the gap lines underneath the superglue. I think you're best trying to fill the gaps with a suitably coloured filler and then poly over the top.

  7. #16
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys I think natural timbermate stained with the amber dye to match the colour, followed by careful poly finish would look the best.
    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3

  8. #17
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Please let us know how that turns out. I may do the same with my GR-1SF if all goes well for you.

  9. #18
    Member stansby40's Avatar
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    Dyed Timbermate

    I had some pine timbermate that was very close to the natural colour of the basswood body. I mixed some vintage amber colour with it until it looked about right. I then pushed the timber mate into the gaps using a small spatula I had and smoothed with my finger. I waited until it was dry and because it shrank I filled it again and then smoothed with a cotton buddy dipped in water. I had to do it one more time to make it smooth and completely fill the gaps but the end result I think is quite good. Next I will put a few coats of wipe on poly over the timbermate to complete the job.
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    Build 1 AGM-1
    Build 2 TLA-1
    Build 3 ES-3

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