ST build upgrade parts question

[McCreed]

Did you use the factory electronics (and add the mini toggle) or did you upgrade pots and switch as well?

That build was a non-PBG kit. I sourced all the parts individually. Whilst it wasn't a scratch build, I did a fair bit of custom work to the body, neck and components.

I have not done a PBG ST type kit, but I believe (someone please correct em if I'm wrong) that upgrading to full-size pots is not an issue as far the routing is concerned (unlike the TL's). Not sure about the depth for a proper CRL or Oak Grigsby lever switch though.

That said, and TBH, there is really nothing wrong with using the stock pots or switch.
I think sometimes we (myself included) can get a bit too "cork sniffy" about some of this stuff. Yes there are higher quality components, but CTS pots aren't going make me a better player or make a HUGE difference in "my" tone.
As a friend of mine says "Tone just happens".

[FCD]

Hi McCreed,

The basic issue is that all the wiring diagrams have a 5 way switch which have a total of 8 connecting points to it. The PBG switch has inline 6 points. As I am unsure how to convert the wiring to the PBG switch I was thinking about changing out the switch to match the wiring diagram.

[WeirdBits]

The stock PBG 5-way has 7 lugs/pads, set up as 1 2 3 (4) 5 6 7, where 4 is the common lug for both sides/halves. This works fine for ‘standard’ Strat style wiring, but as it has a single shared common it can’t do much more than that on it’s own. The CRL/Grigsby type lever switches that you see in diagrams have three lugs plus a common on each side, completely separate from each other (ie. 2 ‘poles’), which allows some additional wiring options. Then there’s the ‘4 pole’ super-switches which have four separate banks of x lugs plus a common.

To map the PBG switch to a CRL style layout, it would be like:

.1...|..(4)
.2...|...5
.3...|...6
(4)..|...7

If you get what I mean.

[FCD]

Thanks Scott,

Very helpful. So from this I am guessing that I would need to upgrade the switch to change the wiring which is what I had thought. However, this is very helpful

[WeirdBits]

I should point out that the above mapping is only valid when the diagram you’re using has the two commons linked on the switch, ie., a wire between the two (4) lugs. If it doesn’t have that link then the poles are being used separately and you can’t map it to the PBG switch.

[McCreed]

Here's a handy diagram.

I'm pretty sure you can still do the 7 sound toggle switch with the import switch. Let me check my note and get back to you tomorrow. It's late...



Here's a 7 lug one:

[FCD]

Thanks guys,

I am guess this would work with the PBG switch.

https://www.sixstringsupplies.co.uk/...rat-wiring-mod

And this seems relatively easy.

[McCreed]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That should do it FCD. My way just puts the toggle across the switch between the neck hot lead and the common. Yours goes directly from the toggle to the "input" lug of the volume pot. Same, same.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes!

[FCD]

Thanks Scott and McCreed,

I will stick to the PBG pots and switches and if anything goes wrong I will upgrade at that point.

Also for the STDP can I used an On/On switch - that’s all I can seem to find for a good price

[McCreed]

Use this here:

https://www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-minia...r-tag/p/ST0335 ($2.95)