Drilled Holes for Pots

[a_novice]

yeah its a solid maple cap...but its semi hollow so didn't really want to recess the two knobs as i thought it would look funny. the recess looks great on a solid top but semi hollow i wasn't too sure.

[FrankenWashie]

I just hope my skills are up to it!

The cavity is small, but i do have the ability to widen it where required so that can be done.

Was also just thinking, i may only need to do 1 of the holes! I've included a pic that shows what i mean. I am having 2 pots and a selector switch, so....thinking that as per the pic i could live with one of the buttons as the gap on a straight drill hole isn't much (you can see that a folded piece of paper is already too high so i reckon i could leave this (or even sand the hole to one side by 1mm if required.

The second button definitely needs to be fixed with the above option, but the third hole probably doesn't matter as much as its the selector switch so just needs to look on on the top.

I probably need to use the dremel to widen the cavity a little so i can even out as per your pic FrankenWashie.

I think i'll start on finishing the neck and getting the decal on etc while i carefully plan for the body!!!

I’d firstly make sure how far you need to expand that cavity.
Secondly, what kind of cover is over that cavity? From the photo in your first set of pics it looks like there is no recess for a cover?
I’d look at what other trimming needs to be done, and potentially see if the existing cover will reach across the mods you want to make.
If it won’t then you’ve got a replacement cover to make and fit.

If it were me, I’d look at these things first, make my plan, craft any routing templates needed and then set up for routing, first the cavity extension and then the recess for the cover plate.
But I have a FrankenLab and an Igor, if a dremel is all you have, mark up your mod in pencil, and then use a scriber tool or a sharp compass point to scribe those pencil lines in, this helps to make the lines more visible when the dust starts flying!

Work slowly, check often, use a dremel router fitting if you can get one as this helps keep things stable and you can run it against a straight edge or guide block to get your edges straight and square. It will also let you progressively drop the cut to take little bits at a time.

Happy to provide more detail if you need

I love that cap, this kit looks solid!


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[a_novice]

I haven't purchased a cover for it yet and there isn't any recess for a cover either.

Yeah i don't have access to anything other than a dremel, but like the idea of a router fitting...and agree there is a lot of planning i need to do by the looks of things. I may have taken on more than my abilities this time around. Decided to pick a harder build this time around but maybe it was too hard.

That's heaps of details, much appreciated! I think i know what i have to do now so just need to sit down and spend the hours planning. Whilst doing that i can get the neck started as i have to knock the nut out to replace and then get my decal ready. Also need to enlarge the tuning peg holes by a few mm so plenty of other stuff to do.

Yeah the kit is solid and has a nice cap on it, really like the hard maple (didn't think i would).

Like any build, i'm learning heaps :-)

Thanks all for the advice.

[FrankenWashie]

Depending on where you are located, there are forum mentors and overlords who might be able to help you out with tools or assistance.
There are also tool libraries in some suburbs that can lend you what you need, maker’s spaces or men’s sheds that you can join to use a variety of tools.

A dremel will do it, if you can get one of the router bases for it, it will make your life a lot easier. You just need to be sure of what it is you are doing, and how you are going to go about it that.

Best of luck with it!

[a_novice]

Cool. Thanks FW.

[fender3x]

Lots of interesting ideas here, and asking a master to take a look is a good idea.

Assuming you don't have access to an overlord, however, I'd be tempted to try to carve an angled washer out of a door shim. You can try it without routing, drilling recesses or even gluing. If it works, great. If not...you can still take one of the other suggestions. It also occurs to me that you may need a long shaft pot.

I see the issue with the size of the cavity, but a mini pot might work... Just a thought

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[a_novice]

So if i understand correctly, the angled washer would be for the underside yeah? In the cavity?

Yeah not a lot of space but can make more if i need too, and i have long shaft pots too, made sure i got those when i grabbed some EMG H4/A's.

[FrankenWashie]

Lots of interesting ideas here, and asking a master to take a look is a good idea.

Assuming you don't have access to an overlord, however, I'd be tempted to try to carve an angled washer out of a door shim. You can try it without routing, drilling recesses or even gluing. If it works, great. If not...you can still take one of the other suggestions. It also occurs to me that you may need a long shaft pot.

I see the issue with the size of the cavity, but a mini pot might work... Just a thought

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A good idea, especially if its only one pot affected (Closest to the cavity wall). The trick is going to be the plug and re-drill, as long as you can get that sorted to satisfaction, then the door shim washer will work fine.

Like Fender3x says you can shape it, install it and fine tune before you go gluing it, if you even want or need to glue it, it's only a spacer after all.

[fender3x]

So if i understand correctly, the angled washer would be for the underside yeah? In the cavity?

Exactly ;-)

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[a_novice]

Do i have to plug and redrill or can i just use the existing holes? Given i have to enlarge them anyway, especially the one closest to the cavity wall due to it being a switch, i could get a fair bit of angle without too much extra room because its being widened at the same time if that makes sense??