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Thread: First kit build - AG-1F

  1. #1
    Member Mcgaz's Avatar
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    Question First kit build - AG-1F

    Hi all!

    Got my first kit today, the AG-1F from pitbull guitars.
    Excited to get cracking and have been looking at quite a lot of different forums, youtube videos and the like to get a grasp on what I've gotten myself into. I dont come with any proper experience in woodworking let alone putting together an instrument, so any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

    So I initially wanted to grab an all mahogany SG type kit and just replicate the stereotypical Angus Young look.
    However ending up wishing to get a nice flamed front in that red mahogany colour, to then have a thin black burst edge, leaving most of the front mahogany stained to reveal the flamed maple on top.
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    Wishing to get an idea on what the stains could look like, i grabbed some Feast Watson Prooftint Interior Stain in mahogany and black. Ened up ordering some ColorTone Guitar Stain red mahogany and black as well.
    After testing the Feast Watson, im happy with the look on some test basswood.
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    I know to be careful with the veneer on top, the testwood ive used was 0.6mm thin like the veneer and was happily surprised that its not too easy to sand through by hand with some 240 grit when removing some ebony timbermate. Going with timbermate because i cant sand out too much of a black stain to pop the flame.

    So my plan is to sand down the body and neck, cover in ebony timbermate and sand down as a pre-stain treatment to help pop the grain and flame.
    Cover in mahogany stain. (not sure if i need to coat this multiple times)
    Then stain the outsides black and slowly fade the black in to the mahogany. (On the test wood i used the black fairly soon after applying the mahogany when starting to fade, i feel like it helped blend the colours together in the fade. Not sure if i should wait to let the stain cure and dry properly, or if that is just before sealing).

    After the colour is done, apply tru-oil, let dry, buff with 0000 steel wool, add another coat, repeat...

    I do have some concerns though, the kit came in very good condition i think, and Im quite happy.
    Although Im not too sure whats going on with this truss rod sticking out.
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    Also, the neck slotted in nicely, the body has a good grip on it, although when i have the bottom of the neck pushed all the way into the body, the neck pickup wouldn't fit, so i slid the neck up slightly and the pickup could fit. Im assuming i have to do some measuring from the bridge to get it in the right spot for the intonation.
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  2. #2
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Yeah, that truss rod nut ain't right... Don't know what's going on there.

    re: neck & neck pickup, you are correct about measuring to set it at proper scale length (24.75"). That extended bit on the heel typically won't butt up to the edge of the pickup route.

    There is a guide on the PBG site that lays out the basics for setting neck position (and other stuff) and there's heaps of folks here willing to share too.

    https://www.pitbullguitars.com/instruction-manual/

    All the best with your build!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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  4. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    I’d be talking to Adam, as the only real fix for that would be a board strip and inspection. Either rod is too long, or the channel has been cut wrong (too short).
    I would be tempted to get a key on the end of that truss rod and see if it moves back into the channel. If it does, great, but it’s going to be a problem later on. If it doesn’t then it’s already a problem sticking out like that.
    FrankenLab
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  6. #4
    Member Mcgaz's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies guys, helps to know that the truss rod isn't just weirding me out.
    Shot a query out to Adam so should see what the situation is soon.

  7. #5
    Member Mcgaz's Avatar
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    the truss rod has just popped out of the nut in the heel. This can happen during transit if the rod is too loose.

    You just need to screw it back in.

    Hold the neck upright, headstock pointing up and gently tap the heel against a firm surface. You can insert the allen key into the truss rod at the headstock and turn clockwise until you re-engage with the nut in the heel
    Grabbed the neck, tapped the heel lightly on the floor and the rod slid down with each tap. Grabbed an allen key and tightened it up only a little. Seems like the thread down the bottom caught on, turning anti- and clockwise has a bit of stiffness so hoping all is good!
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    Doing some more testing with the stains today. Will start sanding down the body and neck tomorrow!
    I got a bone nut to replace the plastic one, Im thinking ill have to get onto that before i do any finishes.
    As always, any tips much appreciated!
    Last edited by Mcgaz; 24-08-2019 at 12:24 PM.

  8. #6
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Happy you got it sorted, but these are normally dual action rods, it should not have come undone?
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  9. #7
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    If it was in a neutral position and there was a bit of slack in the channel it seems possible that it just slipped out. Bit odd for sure.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
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    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
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  10. #8
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Happy you got it sorted, but these are normally dual action rods, it should not have come undone?
    Agreed, but from I what I just learnt about dual action TR's, the bottom of the rod is not fixed but just threads into a another "nut".
    Theoretically the round rod of the assembly could be unscrewed and actually extracted from the neck. (not that I'd try it )

    That said, I'd be dubious about nut & rod threads that have enough play in them that they would vibrate loose from transport.
    I suppose once tensioned by the strings, it may not be an issue again.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  11. #9
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    Agreed, but from I what I just learnt about dual action TR's, the bottom of the rod is not fixed but just threads into a another "nut".
    Theoretically the round rod of the assembly could be unscrewed and actually extracted from the neck. (not that I'd try it )

    That said, I'd be dubious about nut & rod threads that have enough play in them that they would vibrate loose from transport.
    I suppose once tensioned by the strings, it may not be an issue again.
    Based on pulling the odd pbg neck apart,
    The dual rod is a flat bar with square nuts welded at each end. One nut is RH thread and the other LH thread. The only way this moved that far out is if the whole rod moved as a unit in the channel.

    Once some adjustment is made to the rod it’ll sit solid. It’s a concern that it was able to move that far from factory.


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  12. #10
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Thanks FW. Good info. I should also qualify by saying that I've never installed or removed a truss rod, PBG or otherwise.
    I get what you're saying though.

    Theoretically the round rod of the assembly could be unscrewed and actually extracted from the neck.
    That statement by me is incorrect. I typed before engaging brain .
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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