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Thread: First kit build - AG-1F

  1. #11
    Member Mcgaz's Avatar
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    Proceeding on, hopefully the neck doesn't end up failing when i get to the end point... hahaha *stress!*

    Been sussing the scale length, wasn't too sure as the product description for AG-1F or other similar AG series guitars doesnt have it included (i could be blind), but with the neck slotted mostly all the way in so the neck pickup fits and covers all of the pickup hole it sits close to 628. Gibson SG guitars have a 628mm scale length, so i thought going with that would be safe.

    Pic shows with the saddles all the way forward, high E string would sit at 624mm, saddle can extend back to 630mm.
    Not in the pic, but the low E sits at 626mm
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Will mark off the neck/body point on the neck so i can tape that off and get to the head stock shaping.
    Then to sanding and finishing!
    Last edited by Mcgaz; 25-08-2019 at 11:11 AM.

  2. #12
    I was just presuming the scale to 24.75 based on the type of kit, but I think I'm correct.

    To verify, measure from the fretboard-side of the nut to the centre of the crown of the 12th fret. That will be your half scale distance. That x 2 is your scale length.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #13
    Member Mcgaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    I was just presuming the scale to 24.75 based on the type of kit, but I think I'm correct.

    To verify, measure from the fretboard-side of the nut to the centre of the crown of the 12th fret. That will be your half scale distance. That x 2 is your scale length.
    So the nut to top of 12th seems to be 312mm, 2mm short of the perfect half 628mm; 314mm.
    So i assume i should plan for 624mm as my scale length, given half is 312. Instead of just following the 628mm/24.75inches.

  4. #14
    So the nut to top of 12th seems to be 312mm, 2mm short of the perfect half 628mm; 314mm.
    So i assume i should plan for 624mm as my scale length, given half is 312. Instead of just following the 628mm/24.75inches.
    Sorry, I was speaking more about finding scale length in general. (if unknown)

    You'll still want to set the neck based on 628mm. Because the TOM-type bridge is slightly angled, the 628 mark will fall at the centreline of the bridge piece at the middle, pushing the low E slightly behind the line and high E slightly ahead. (clear as mud, right?)

    There is enough adjustment in the individual saddles that correct intonation (individual string length) can still be achieved. Some builders play with the numbers a little bit but 628mm is your working figure in this case. Typically .5-1mm won't make a critical difference.

    For example my PBG PRS-1TS (24.75" scale) measures out like this: nut to centre 12th fret = 313mm; nut to middle of bridge piece at centreline = 629mm. This guitar intonates perfectly (literally).

    Whilst accuracy is important in doing this stuff, nothing is ever etched in stone. We're not dealing in microns here.
    There is most always a margin of wiggle room that will still result in a fine playing instrument. At least that's my opinion.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  5. #15
    Member Mcgaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    clear as mud, right?
    Completely understood!
    Thanks for clarifying that one, seems like the measurement in my original picture measuring over the bridge is getting there. Will tripple, quadruple check those measurements before i continue with working the wood. Bit short on e, bit long on E, makes sense. Ive been measuring the length at the high e. I appreciate the guidance mate. Thank you very much.

    One thing im debating is when to glue in the neck. Seems like pros and cons either way, i have a bone nut to put in so i feel doing that before finishing will give a chance to remove scuff marks around the nut and have no bare unfinished spots. But having the 1st and 6th strings in to set nut height... needing neck and bridge in to do that well.

  6. #16
    One thing im debating is when to glue in the neck. Seems like pros and cons either way,
    Builder's Choice - I've only built the one set neck and I chose to set it after I had done most of the finish. Lots of others set the neck and do their finish after.
    I used alcohol dyes with Tru Oil top coat. I dyed the body & neck separately and applied enough Tru Oil to seal the dye, but left the contact areas at the heel and pocket bare. Once the neck was set, I did the rest of my TO.
    I'm not saying this is THE way to do it, just the way I did it.

    i have a bone nut to put in so i feel doing that before finishing will give a chance to remove scuff marks around the nut and have no bare unfinished spots.
    Are you talking about scuff marks & bare spots on the nut itself, or around the nut slot in the neck? I'm unclear.

    For me it depends on the finish method. If dyeing/staining, I glue the nut in after the colour and before the clear coat. If just a clear finish (like a maple neck) I sand > seal > set nut > clear coat. But remember, a nut can replaced pre or post finish. Repairers and luthiers do it all the time. There are advantages to doing it before, but not the end of the world doing it after.

    But having the 1st and 6th strings in to set nut height... needing neck and bridge in to do that well.
    You'll want to have the nut in place to use the E strings for neck alignment, but I set my nut string action by cutting the individual nut slots rather than sanding or filing the bottom of the nut (which is where I think you're going with that).
    I set the nut action as part of my final set-up. Again, different strokes for different folks. Some do the nut bottom thing. I don't.
    FWIW, you can keep the plastic nut in there as long as want for getting neck & bridge placement stuff. The nut material is irrelevant for all that. Just a good idea to change it before your final finishing steps IMO.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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