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Thread: My first build diary: TLA-1

  1. #21
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    There's normally some wriggle-room when screwing the neck in position. Can you push the end of the headstock to get the strings running more parallel down the neck? If you can, then you'll be able to fix the neck in that position.

  2. #22
    Those compensated saddles will sit slightly different with 2 strings over them rather than one.

    cheers, Mark.

  3. #23
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I'll just reiterate what Simon said.
    It looks like you just need to align the strings by adjusting the lateral neck angle.
    If you measure the distance from your centre mark at the neck pocket to the centre of each E string in your photo, they look pretty equal to me.
    This is one of the beauties of screw-fixed necks vs set necks, they're adjustable!

    If you haven't drill the holes in the heel yet, you're laughing. Set the correct string alignment first, snug up your clamp and mark the hole locations via the holes in the body.
    Once you screw the neck on, you be able to realign the strings easy peasy.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    There's normally some wriggle-room when screwing the neck in position. Can you push the end of the headstock to get the strings running more parallel down the neck? If you can, then you'll be able to fix the neck in that position.
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    I'll just reiterate what Simon said.
    It looks like you just need to align the strings by adjusting the lateral neck angle.
    If you measure the distance from your centre mark at the neck pocket to the centre of each E string in your photo, they look pretty equal to me.
    This is one of the beauties of screw-fixed necks vs set necks, they're adjustable!

    If you haven't drill the holes in the heel yet, you're laughing. Set the correct string alignment first, snug up your clamp and mark the hole locations via the holes in the body.
    Once you screw the neck on, you be able to realign the strings easy peasy.


    There is a tiny bit of wiggle room but the neck sits really tight in the pocket, there is nowhere near enough to allow for enough adjustment to get the strings to align properly, this was the very first thing I tried

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan McEvoy View Post
    There is a tiny bit of wiggle room but the neck sits really tight in the pocket, there is nowhere near enough to allow for enough adjustment to get the strings to align properly, this was the very first thing I tried
    Right, so looks like I was a bit silly here and didn't take time to back everything off and loosen it enough to shift the angle of the neck when I tried to do it after I finally got the bridge on and getting things aligned (was particularly worried at the time of possibly cracking the thin wood at the top of the pocket on the cutaway side). Finally got a bit more time to put in some work on it and starting again, If I take it slowly and wiggle the neck down just right, I CAN actually tilt the neck over and get it ALMOST lined up right (there's still maybe half a mm difference between the string alignment in relation to the neck) but not without opening up small but noticeable gaps. I THINK I can possibly fix this up with some light sanding around the pocket but I'm super nervous of going to far and then definitely having noticeable gaps around the neck/pocket edges

  6. #26
    O.k, so a bit of an update. Really wish I had more time to work on this. I've got the neck positioned here so the strings are aligned as closely as possible along the neck with the spacing from string to edge of fretboard as even as I can get it. Pictures are attempting to show (sorry for my crappy camera) the gaps I get around the pocket when I try and align the strings correctly with the neck wedged down into the pocket as hard as I can. Really unsure how to proceed here, I don't want to take anything off and wind up with gaps around the neck or any problems of that nature. Any help on how I should best proceed here would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers, Dan












  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan McEvoy View Post
    I had taken into account already the position of the saddles as I noted in my post saying that it needed to be moved to allow me to adjust the saddles back and forward. I could possibly place the bridge without moving the rout but as you say, my saddles would be at the absolute end of their travel......
    My Tele kit came with the holes for the bridge pre-drilled as per my request. The worker didn't enlarge the pickup cavity and the holes are drilled a bit too far south. But before drilling another set of holes I'm going to try swapping the intonation screws for some longer screws. They're simply 3 mm machine screws so they're easy to swap. It's worth a try before resorting to drilling.

  8. #28
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    You're very nearly there. A bit of light sanding on the sides of the neck pocket should get you there. Use a good square piece of hardwood for a sanding block and take your time. Use the bottom of the pocket as your guide for keeping the sanding edge square to the bottom.

    Also FWIW, you want enough room in the pocket so the heel, just about drops in. You shouldn't have to press hard or tap it in or force it. Don't forget you have finish going on the neck and potentially some in the pocket, so you need to allow for the thickness of your finish material.

    As for gaps, I've seen production guitars with far worse than what your showing. I'm not saying don't try and get it as even as possible, but it's not tehe end of the world if it's not "perfect". By the time it's finished the pickguard is on, I'm reasonably sure the only person that would notice it is you.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  9. #29
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Hi Dan,

    I usually don't mind a bit more real estate on the treble e string rather that the bass E string just to aid vibrato.

    That being said, when checking the neck alignment try to get each string over the magnet/slug pole piece or that string will sound thin.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
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  10. #30
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    That being said, when checking the neck alignment try to get each string over the magnet/slug pole piece or that string will sound thin.
    I'd say could sound thin in a worst-case situation. You'd have to be a long way off a pole piece to lose any significant volume.

    The bridge pickup will invariable be OK, as the spacing there is determined by the saddle spacing, so it's only the neck humbucker you need to worry about. And the 50mm spacing of the Tonerider pole pieces should be fine for the neck position.

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