My first build diary: TLA-1

[Dan McEvoy]

Hey all,

So I've taken delivery of my TLA-1 kit and most of the extras that I want to add to it so I thought it was time to get on here and start my build diary with a bit of an inspection and mock build



On inspecting the neck, there's a bit of a scar on one side of the heel. Looks to me like maybe this was done in the factory by some kind of tool?





Also, it looks like the heel is approx 1mm thicker on the bass side when compared to the treble side





What does the community consensus say? Will these issues be a problem?

Also, gave the neck a rough test fit



Looks like in order to get the scale length right with a decent amount of back and forward adjustment on the saddles as well as to get the bridge to mate up a bit better with the scratch plate, I'm going to have to enlarge the bridge pickup rout and move it towards the neck by about 8mm or so





If anyone out there with a bit more experience could let me know what the think and how I should best proceed, that'd be great.

Cheers,

Dan

[king casey]

Also, it looks like the heel is approx 1mm thicker on the bass side when compared to the treble side

Going by your photo, the heel height is 26mm either side.


Also there are many posts about the pickup rout further south than on a standard Telecaster.
It was noted in my build at post #86 here.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...light=King%27s


cheers, Mark.

[Sonic Mountain]

Going by your photo, the heel height is 26mm either side.

Yeah, but the fret board is slightly thinner on one side. I think it'll be fine as long as it sits nice and level (overall) in the pocket. A bit of variation in fret board thickness is not unusual.

[Dan McEvoy]

O.k, thanks. It does looks o.k when seated and appears reasonably level. As you can see from the pic of the damage on the heel though, from end on there's a clear cant. If I hold it with the heel level to my eye, it seems to slope away towards the treble side quite a bit. Hopefully it will be as you say, it's hard to see a tilt when the neck is seated but anxious to make sure I do things right

[BigDaddy]

I had to open out the bridge pickup route for mine too. Was very quick and easy with the Dremel and a drum sanding bit.

[Dan McEvoy]

Perhaps these two show it a little better? It's a tick under 26mm on the bass side from the looks of it and 25mm on the treble

[McCreed]

FWIW, with a tele bridge (any adjustable saddle bridge really) you should move your saddles back at least 1/3 of their total travel to set your bridge position. Some say 1/2 but I've found 1/3 works for me. (you currently have your saddles all the way forward)

This allows another 2/3 of movement back to get the correct intonation. I have never had to move a saddle so far forward (flat intonation) that I ran out of adjustment. However I have seen numerous cases (particularly strats) where the low E had no more adjustment away from the neck (sharp intonation).

That said, and looking at your photo of the bridge and tape measure, if you screw that E/A barrel back about 4-5mm so the compensated "A" saddle falls right on the 25.5" mark, I think you'll be fine. It might not be enough to avoid routing the bridge side of the pickup cavity, but it should at least minimise how much you need to remove and still allow the bridge plate to cover the pickup route.

Also, are you planning on using that bridge as a top-load or string-through?
There are further considerations to be had with using either method.

[Dan McEvoy]

I had taken into account already the position of the saddles as I noted in my post saying that it needed to be moved to allow me to adjust the saddles back and forward. I could possibly place the bridge without moving the rout but as you say, my saddles would be at the absolute end of their travel. In order for me to have that level of adjustment and to mate the bridge up neatly with the pickguard, I'll have to extend the rout by 8mm or so.

I will be using the bridge as a string through, got some brass ferrules on their way

[king casey]

I have the high 'E' saddle set as far forward as possible whilst still achieving the 25.5" scale.
It aint gonna be shorter than 25.5" eh?
This is purely to minimise the centimeter difference between the standard pickguard and cack-handed rout placement.
Purely aesthetic you may say but still looks are everything.

cheers, Mark.

[dave.king1]

Compare the Wilkinson bridge with the kit one and it will be obvious as to why you need to open the pup route up.

I think all of us who have used aftermarket bridges designed as a direct replacement for a Fender bridge have been down this road