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Thread: Strat ash build

  1. #51
    Having some issues with the neck. Even with the action raised on the bridge the strings don’t clear the frets. Is it better to sand down the neck pocket on the body or the back of the neck itself?


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  2. #52
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    First step is always to double check the pocket is clear of wood shavings, splinters pushed up by the neck screws and areas that may be a bit high that stop the neck sitting flush. I always drill out the body mounting holes until the screw just push through them tightly, but don't bite on the sides. That way you know they are pulling the neck right down.

    Have you checked the neck straightness? Any back bow and you'll always need higher bridge saddles to clear the neck.

    Also, worth checking that the rear vertical end of the neck heel isn't angled such that its stopping the neck being pulled fully into that end of the pocket (especially if the holes were all pre-drilled).

    If there's still a problem, then deepening the body end of the neck pocket is probably the best solution. You should only need between 0.5-1mm depth. A sharp chisel will probably be easier to use to start with then trying to sand in that area, as you don't have much space to move the sandpaper. You want to keep the neck end of the heel the same height. If you angle too much, then it's then best to fit a thin shim to compensate, rather than try and level the neck end of the heel to reduce the angle. Too easy to end up see-sawing between the two conditions!

  3. #53
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Got any pics?
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #54






    It’s just at the bridge end. Maybe 19th-22nd fret the strings are touching. And action is maxed out


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  5. #55
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Yes, needs a bit more angle. You could start by putting a shim under the heel at the neck end of the pocket to see how much you need to remove at the other end. Probably a single 0.5 mm piece of veneer would do it.

  6. #56
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Your pickup height adjustment screws look like the scratchplate countersinks need expanding.

  7. #57
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Your pickup height adjustment screws look like the scratchplate countersinks need expanding.
    Another alternative is switching the adjustment screws to pan heads. It doesn't make a functional difference, it's purely cosmetic.
    I know little things like that can bug me, but can be a bit OCD at times.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #58
    I’m not too bothered how it looks as long as it plays well. Whatever the easiest way is. All this talk of Chisels and shims makes me nervous. But if it needs done it needs done. With regards to the pickup screws they do indeed need to be counter...sunk. I’ll be changing the pick guard though first as the one on there had a fight with the soldering iron...


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  9. #59
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I’ll be changing the pick guard though first as the one on there had a fight with the soldering iron...
    Ouch!!!

    I don't think chisels will be required, and Simon's advice about the shim is the way to go. Completely non-invasive and reversible.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  10. #60
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Though I don't like having a shim under the front part of the heel as it's very visible, whereas one under the rear is hidden. Some sanding/wood removal is necessary IMO.

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