JTL-1 First Build

[curtis5000]

Hi All,

Having played Fender Jaguars & Teles for 20 years, I wanted to build something along those lines. The JTL-1 kit was the best of both worlds for me, offset shape, and simple tele controls.

The jaguar tremolo was a must though, as I use it in a lot of the songs I write (shoegazey MBV/Ringo Deathstarr etc). So, this is where the challenge for me is going to be.

Box arrived in good shape and thanks to Adam for swapping to a rosewood Fingerboard.

[curtis5000]

I've upgraded to the gotoh tuners, and got the tele controls upgrade kit from PBG, along with a Tusq nut.

I got a 62 reissue fender jag/jazzmaster tremolo off ebay, and after much deliberation, went with a WD Bigsby Bridge and plate. I went with the vintage style bridge as it gives me the option of making small adjustments in the string spacing like my mij jag 62 reissue(the am pro jaguar, my main guitar, has 55mm string spacing at the bridge and it leaves the two E strings too close to the edge of the fretboard imo). Anywho, hopefully turn out like this pic, when I figure out how to route the tremolo pocket with no router heheh

[Bakersdozen]

Hey Curtis5000, welcome aboard mate. A great looking kit and some worthy upgrades there. Sounds like you have thought long and hard about what you want to end up with and you've sourced parts accordingly. I'm looking forward to this build. My JTL-1 gets a lot of love and have just put a P90 in the neck which i am loving. What's your plans for finish, mate? Also where do you hail from? There might be some forumites who are nearby to help you get that trem routed if you don't have a router or laminate trimmer.

[curtis5000]

Thanks Bakerdozen, the P90 is looking great on your build BTW, the whole guitar came out really nicely, inspiring stuff!

Finish wise I'm thinking ebony Timbermate and angelus blue leather dye like Christodav had. I only just realised he didn't finish it in tru oil but gluboost(?) which I need to read up about. I was hoping to do the tru oil method to avoid spraying & what seems like an easier finishing method. But if using truoil adds yellow, not sure what that blue will end up as... I might do a test with it and see how it comes out.

I'm in Brisbane, still hitting up friends and work colleagues to see who had a router. Worst case, I'll just drill with a forstner bit, and sandpaper from there. I don't mind doing heaps of sanding, I'm enjoying the build heaps.

Over the weekend and yesterday(show day holiday in Brisbane), I got stuck in to cutting the headstock, and a bit of pickguard reshaping to accommodate the bigger bridge plate. Went through a couple of coping saw blades, I think they melted. The blades seemed to get super hot. I was happy to get a reasonable looking headstock shape & taking it super slow on the pickguard, it came out OK too.

I had a 1991 tele neck pickup left over when I had a push pull split humbucker put into my tele years ago, so I thought I'd use that. Seems the pickguards pickup hole and screw holes were about 2mm too short for this pickup, so I lightly sanded till they fitted OK.

[DarkMark]

I was hoping to do the tru oil method to avoid spraying & what seems like an easier finishing method. But if using truoil adds yellow, not sure what that blue will end up as...

Green....It will end up green.
Tru Oil has a reputation of being yellow, yellowing with age and turning blue guitars green.
As you rightly predict it is an easy finish method.

[curtis5000]

I've decided to try the superglue/gluboost like christidav used on his jtl1 as a sealer and sca clear ( phrozin method).

I'm curious now though, I didn't see many YouTube videos or how to guides on Ca glue. Is there any particular reason it's not a more popular finish? (aside from fumes) It looks easy to apply, quick dry time, and give a hard clear smooth finish (after sanding and buffing). Feel like I'm missing something here?

[Sonic Mountain]

CA is suuuper messy. It takes a bit of practice to do a good job with - and I've only used it for small repairs. Personally I would do whatever stain you want and then use Supercheap clear. It's a reasonable price and can give a really pro looking finish. It will take time to build up enough to cut flat, but so will most finishes. Is it an Ash body? deep grain on that will require several coats, but it's worth it.

Otherwise, I've been having some good results with cabots polyurethane, it certainly drys a lot harder than the acrylic (Although given enough cure time the acrylic is fine). It also gives a much better gloss finish straight out of the can. I'm finding it best to build up 2 or three applications over several weeks (An application is three very light coats with about 2-5 mins drying time between each) then cut that back, then do a final application and then leave it.

This is a work in progress. Still a bit of grain to fill (and a couple of inclusions and a nice run in this coat) but this is just stain and poly. This is also un buffed, out of the can, so it's pretty shiny as is. I'll cut this back flat and do at least one more application.

These are a great looking kit, look forward to watching your progress.

[curtis5000]

Thanks Sonic, great to see the gloss on the poly finish, I wasn't sure if poly would come up that good, but it's looking nice.

I've already got some of the Ca glue on order, wondering if I should maybe skip it now, but for the Ash Body, would it be worth pressing on with the glue to help with the grain fill(I will be using ebony Timbermate as first step in the finishing). I've got time to ponder it anyway.

Over this last weekend I routed the jazzmaster style tremolo pocket without a plunge router, which I thought I would mention in case anyone else tries the same.

Using a routing template I got off ebay for $20 to help with alignment, and a set of forstner drill bits, for around $15 off ebay, I set about drilling 4 holes for the main section using the 35mm forstner bit, and the 15mm forstner bit was perfect for the "bump" at the top of this rectangle.(where the locking switch on the fender trems are)

I taped some painters tape to a depth of 35mm on the forstner bit, to give me a depth guide so I didn't drill right through the body. Then a few smaller holes to catch the corners with a Bradford bit. Tiding up from there, I used a set of chisels, which went a lot better than I was expecting. Little bit of sanding just to smooth it a bit. I'm not too fussed with the perfect hole since it's going to be covered, so just needed to be neat-ish.

When I first started this, I used a drill guide, as I had just drilled the new bridge post holes. I found the drill guide more of a hindrance than a help. As I was going to have to clean up the cavity anyway, I didn't mind if it was perfectly straight, so free hand drilled these.

[RocknRolf]

@Curtis5000 That is a great kit on the way! See you managed the "routing", it's looking neath. Looking forward what you're going to make of it.
Just started on my first build (TL), which is also going to be my first electric guitar, but looking at this kit, I already know my TL is not going to be alone for a long time ;-)

Good luck!

[Sonic Mountain]

Thanks Sonic, great to see the gloss on the poly finish, I wasn't sure if poly would come up that good, but it's looking nice.

I've already got some of the Ca glue on order, wondering if I should maybe skip it now, but for the Ash Body, would it be worth pressing on with the glue to help with the grain fill(I will be using ebony Timbermate as first step in the finishing). I've got time to ponder it anyway.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to try. Worst case scenario you give yourself more sanding to do. Almost nothing is irrecoverable.

The poly give the best straight out of the can gloss I've found. But its all about prep and sanding it back flat between coats.