JTL-1 First Build

[christodav]

On my build of that model, I used ebony wood filler, blue leather dye, a couple of coats of Gluboost glue and then the Supercheap clear. worked well and the glue sealed the dye in well and filled it in well in my opinion.

[curtis5000]

2nd round of timbermate sanded, first dye going on. didn't get a great shot of the finished dye unfortunately. hopefully get to sand and dye again tomorrow if I'm not too tired after seeing swervedriver tonight at the zoo.

[christodav]

Looks kinda familiar! I love it!

[JohnH]

That dye is going to look killer

[curtis5000]

Christodav, your build was what inspired me to start the project, so thanks

I sanded back the initial stain, and I also like the less intense blue. Still another round of stain to put on, so time to decide.

It is a bit blotchy after the sand though, anyone have tips on how to work these out? Sand the dark areas or will that create an uneven surface?

Photos: before and after sanding first stain

[RocknRolf]

Looking great Curtis5000! I had that same moment of inspiration but I first need to finish and enjoy my Tele.

It is a bit blotchy after the sand though, anyone have tips on how to work these out? Sand the dark areas or will that create an uneven surface?

Blotchy as in uneven in colouring? If yes, during the staining process use a damp rag to work them out. If you have been using a water based stain you can still try to do it now it's dry, but it is harder. I am not sure if you use a meth spirit based stain.
With sanding I would never sand in one place unless it is a very light touch-up sand with 320 + grit.

Good luck! she's looking great!

[christodav]

I agree with Rolf.

Mine is "blotchy" in parts, but the best thing about a clear coat is that the light reflects off it and the "blotchiness" isn't that noticeable. Also, if you are using the big scratchguard you'll be surprised how much is actually hidden on the front. Sanding can even things out but also realize that you can be taking too much timbermate off. What stain are you using? The leather dye I used also come in a natural clear that can even things out and lift some of the stain. Watch BigD Guitars on Youtube for some tips.

Thanks for using my guitar as inspiration. It means a lot to me. I still haven't finished mine yet- the old 20/80 rule. The last 20% takes 80% of the time. LOL

Chris

[McCreed]

Dang you two & your blue guitars!!!

Now I'm seriously contemplating one of the PBG 2-piece ash ST bodies done up in trans blue...

[curtis5000]

I've started tru oiling the neck, and done 3 layers of gluboost (superglue) on the body, then sanded back to 600, with a light pass on 800.

Ive got 2 questions on finishing I wanted to bounce off everyone :
1) There are very small spots on the body where the superglue is lower than the surrounds. Most guides advise sanding everything flat, but here I risk sanding through the superglue for only a few small spots. Will these generally be filled by the clear acrylic spray (sca rattlecan) which is my next step, and not be noticeable anyway? (shiny spots in picture 1)

2) Some of the pores must not have been filled with the superglue around the edges, and have collected some of the fine white dust from the superglue when I sanded it back. Are there any tricks to getting this out or colouring it? (white specs in the picture 2),

What do you guys reckon?

[Sonic Mountain]

Grab a tack cloth from Bunnings to get the white sanding residue out. A tooth brush might help dislodge it as well. Generally that white sanding build-up will dissapear into the clear coat and not be noticable, but worth trying to get rid of as much as possible.

Those little low spots are fine. Just spend time building up a really good coat of acrylic clear over it and there will be enough to knock it back flat without cutting through.