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Thread: Exm-1 explorer guitar build

  1. #11
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Hi Sachin,

    you can find the neck plates etc on ebay, or via Australian Luthiers Supplies or real parts etc. they tend to be a fairly standard size.

    https://luthiersupplies.com.au/guita...ar-neck-plates

    They also do the Screws:

    https://luthiersupplies.com.au/neck-attachment-screws

    you may find cheaper options on eBay, but in terms of quality, they might prove more a liability.

    The typical screw size is 4mm (3/16" in the imperial/us standard). I'd use a 4.5 mm or 5mm bit to do the body holes, this allows for the screws to go through but not bind up in the body holes.
    You want the screws to bite into the neck heel only.
    IN terms of the hole into the neck itself, the recommended guide hole is 3.3mm, but this is based on tapping threads into metal. A 3mm drill should do if you run it in and out once or twice.
    When you go to install the screws or test fit them, make sure you lubricate the threads with wax, or with soap, just rub the threads with a piece of candle wax or a bar of soap before you try screwing them in.

    I would wait until you have a suitable sized neck plate, then plan your holes on the body according to that screw pattern.
    Once you've got the body holes drilled you can align the neck and clamp it in place then use the body holes to mark the screw hole location for the neck.

    Hope this helps!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  2. #12
    Hi Everyone

    Had to wait a lot the past week to receive the neck plate and screws, but finally with the holes drilled in the neck and also in the body for my LED killswitch, and the wiring tunnels made large enough to fit a 9V battery snap, I moved onto painting the back and sides. Staining the quilt maple top. Finished the 2nd round of primer today, so all in all 6 coats of primer overall. Is that enough to move onto the colour, or a couple more? Any specific dry try for the solvents beforehand?
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  3. #13
    Sorry don’t think the pics uploaded correctly
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  4. #14

    First Major Build Trouble

    Hi all,

    Unfortunately I have had to come to the decision to strip my paint job and start over. I ruined my efforts by accidentally tipping some acetone onto the guitar while on the bench and it ate through certain spots of the paint, creating an ugly look of circular depressions in the paint. Couldn’t live with it.... had to start over.

    I’ve begun sanding back the paint to the primer (apologies for the mess in the background). Do I have to get rid of all the black paint, or can I just scuff it up real good such that a few black spots can be here and there. In other words, the next coats of paint can still stick to the paint already on the guitar, not just the primer?
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  5. #15
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    As long as you can level it out to get rid of the acetone damage, you should be able to coat over the top of the existing. I think about 600 grit should do it.

    Once you are down to a (relatively) clean even surface, clean off the dust and give it a wipe down with tack cloths or alcohol wipes. let it dry and then have at it again with the paint. And keep the acetone away from it!

    Congratulations on passing a milestone in your building....stuffing up your first finish...it is a noble tradition and we've all been there and done it, sometimes more than once. My first build was an EXA-1 that ended up being refinished 4 times! best of luck with it!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    As long as you can level it out to get rid of the acetone damage, you should be able to coat over the top of the existing. I think about 600 grit should do it.

    Once you are down to a (relatively) clean even surface, clean off the dust and give it a wipe down with tack cloths or alcohol wipes. let it dry and then have at it again with the paint. And keep the acetone away from it!

    Congratulations on passing a milestone in your building....stuffing up your first finish...it is a noble tradition and we've all been there and done it, sometimes more than once. My first build was an EXA-1 that ended up being refinished 4 times! best of luck with it!
    I sure made sure to do that this time. Got a better coat of paint this time around and have begun staining the neck. Also received delivery of my Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates pickup set.Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
    After a busy week, got to staining the veneer top with the back and sides painted. However, there were so many glue spots around the edges of the veneer near the binding that the stain just wouldn’t soak in and I was left with patches of wood which really looked ugly. So I decided to spray paint a contour around the edge of the veneer in solid black to avoid the issue of the glue spots, which I couldn’t remove with GOOF OFF or steel wool.

    With the glue spots covered and a contour of black paint around the veneer edge, I am looking to do some sort of makeshift purple burst. I stained the top black and then sanded it back to highlight the quilt maple. Currently preparing it for the purple stain.

    Click image for larger version. 

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