First Build - Ash TL

[McCreed]

I set my nut action by filing the slots in the nut [not the bottom.] You can individually adjust each strings height that way as well as ensure you get the correct break angle from the nut to the tuner post. [If the strings are too deep in the slots after cutting, I file down and re-shape the top of the nut to give me the right depths.]
I set mine with the string depressed at the 3rd fret. The measurements I typically aim for is .004" for E1 to G, and .008" for D to E6
(sometimes the D can go a bit lower). This is just my preferred method and what works for me.

[Tip: if you don't have feeler gauges, typical copy paper is about .004" thick. Just a 1 cm strip to slide under the depressed string. Then just fold it over (.008") for the heavier strings.]

Like with most things guitar, the numbers are not carved in stone. They're more of a reference point. Each instrument has it's own set of rules!

[edited to add more info]

[BigDaddy]

I set my nut action by filing the slots in the nut [not the bottom.] You can individually adjust each strings height that way as well as ensure you get the correct break angle from the nut to the tuner post. [If the strings are too deep in the slots after cutting, I file down and re-shape the top of the nut to give me the right depths.]
I set mine with the string depressed at the 3rd fret. The measurements I typically aim for is .004" for E1 to G, and .008" for D to E6
(sometimes the D can go a bit lower). This is just my preferred method and what works for me.

[Tip: if you don't have feeler gauges, typical copy paper is about .004" thick. Just a 1 cm strip to slide under the depressed string. Then just fold it over (.008") for the heavier strings.]

Like with most things guitar, the numbers are not carved in stone. They're more of a reference point. Each instrument has it's own set of rules!

[edited to add more info]

Thank you so much for this mate - this is exactly what I was after! I have feeler gauges so no need to break out the paper. I'll take those clearances at the 1st fret with the strings depressed at the 3rd. The bone nut that I have has pre-cut slots so I guess I can use the current depth as a guide as to how much of the string protrudes above the slots.

[McCreed]

Thank you so much for this mate - this is exactly what I was after! I have feeler gauges so no need to break out the paper. I'll take those clearances at the 1st fret with the strings depressed at the 3rd. The bone nut that I have has pre-cut slots so I guess I can use the current depth as a guide as to how much of the string protrudes above the slots.

Since you have feeler gauges (and if you have a decent set of verniers*) another tip/trick for roughing in the nut slots is:

*NOTE: if you don't have verniers, you can measure the fret height with your feeler gauge this way -
Lay a straightedge across the first two frets and stack the leaves until they barely slide under the straightedge. That's your fret height. (this is done without any string on btw)

> measure the height of your first fret (from fretboard to crown)

> add .030" to that figure

> stack the feeler gauge leaves (blades) to whatever that total is

> lay the stacked leaves across the fretboard right up against the nut

> file the slot until the file just kisses the feeler gauge - stop

> move on to your next string/file size (rinse & repeat)

Now you can put the strings up on the nut and go back and fine tune each with the string depressed at the 3rd fret as laid out before.

[BigDaddy]

Thanks - I have a good quality dial vernier. What does the 0.030" relate to? Just trying to understand the calculation

[FrankenWashie]

Thanks - I have a good quality dial vernier. What does the 0.030" relate to? Just trying to understand the calculation

0.030” imperial = 0.762mm, 0.8mm for a realistic measurement.
in this instance you want to have a rough clearance between underside of string/nut slot and top of first fret of roughly 0.8 mm. (Correct me if I’m wrong on that statement McCreed)

[McCreed]

0.030” imperial = 0.762mm, 0.8mm for a realistic measurement.
in this instance you want to have a rough clearance between underside of string/nut slot and top of first fret of roughly 0.8 mm. (Correct me if I’m wrong on that statement McCreed)

That's right FW.

Fret height (X) + .030" = (Y) string slot bottom

Fine tune from there.

[BigDaddy]

Super - thanks fellas