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Thread: Guitar Rotisserie for painting.

  1. #11

  2. #12
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    Igor hogging the shop vac again???
    He Hotwired it to a tesla battery, it took off in a whoosh with him riding it. I heard a splash and found Igor in the moat, but the shop vac was last seen heading for Bourke.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    He Hotwired it to a tesla battery, it took off in a whoosh with him riding it. I heard a splash and found Igor in the moat, but the shop vac was last seen heading for Bourke.
    Haha, lucky you keep the crocs in the moat well fed. Or maybe Igor's love of electrodes saved him and he acts more like an electric eel in the water.

  4. #14
    Hi looking to build my first guitar and trying to figure out how to work hands-free when I start painting. my question is how do you fasten a piece of wood in the pocket is it glued in or screwed in? I'm building this guitar for my son and he says he doesn't want to put any holes in the guitar. Any any advice would be much appreciated thank you.

  5. #15
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    Definitely screws. All the pics on this thread are for bolt on necks. It's easy with those because there is already a hole.

    I think I saw that you are doing an ES 1 which is a glue on. I have not seen one of those kits, but I am guessing it's like my ES4-B kit. If so the bottom of the neck pocket is pretty thin.

    You might be able to screw your stick to the center block in the neck pickup cavity. You have to be careful about the length of the screws, but there should be enough wood to mount the stick solidly.

    That was not possible on my ESB-4 kit, so l attached a stick to the bridge pickup cavity. The stick stuck out perpendicular to the body. Not quite as simple to manipulate as the rotisserie, but doable with bit of creativity.

    The trick is for the screw holes to be in a place where they won't be seen. That is pretty much just the pickup cavities or the neck pocket.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    I am just about to put some clear coat on a bolt on neck. This one has not yet been drilled, and I would like to get the clear on before the body's paint finishes drying... Is there any way to do it without having it hang from the tuning machine holes? I don't want to drill if I don't have to, but the rotisserie would be my first option if there were a way to attach the thing without screws. It's a strat style neck so I can't even clamp the bottom part...because the "south" side of the neck will show...

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    This is the best I have come up with so far....

    I am using a maple neck, so I will be finishing the fretboard, but it occurred to me that I don't care about the tops of the frets themselves. So I tried clamping a small block of wood (36x19x12 mm) on top of the frets. I screwed a similar but a little longer 56x19x12 block to a piece of old closet rod. I used a clamp to hold the whole thing together:

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    In a close up you can see that the clamped part on top is not touching the fingerboard, just the frets. I am thinking I can clear coat the treble end of the fingerboard first, then clamp, then do the rest. It *should* only mess up the clear coat on the top of the last three frets, which are going to have it sanded off in any case.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #18
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Are you spraying or hand applying the finish?

    If you're patient, I'll post a pic of my neck jig shortly. I'm still only half-way through my first cuppa.

    I know it's just me, but I like my heel to be completely finished. I also like my finish to be contiguous rather than "filling in" where the block was later.

    If you are spraying a rattle can clear by any chance, than block on the frets is problematic. The tiny gap between the block and fingerboard will create aerodynamic weirdness with the pressure of the spray. Don't ask me how I know this...
    Last edited by McCreed; 04-04-2020 at 06:35 AM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  9. #19
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    OK! I'm two coffees and in and back amongst the living...

    Here's my neck jig:

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    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  10. #20
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    I am doing the finish by hand. So I will be able to finish the highest three frets before clamping.

    I am not concerned about the parts no one can see, although I don't think you are alone in that. For me it's hard enough to get the parts people can see up to acceptable.

    I don't have a good place to spray, even with rattle cans. And the curing will take place in my garage/workshop/office.

    Also I found a product that produces a reliable, hard result and is non-toxic. It is as close to idiot proof as anything I have found, but it doesn't come in a rattle can.

    I have done a bunch of tests with rattle cans, and one full guitar. Conditions are really variable here. Lots of heat and humidity. Sunshine punctuated by torrential rains. That may combine with my lack of skill to produce an inability to get a good finish out of a rattle can. I can't seem to get them to finish hard, and I tend to have a bunch of other problems as well. Drips are clearly my fault. But I don't know how else to explain that one day I get a smooth finish, and the next day, doing the same thing, it comes out pebelly. And sometimes they don't seem to cure completely.

    I finally found a color that I could spray on and get decent solid color results. But I have yet to get a good clear coat out of a rattle can. So it's back to the hand applied clear coat that has worked at least once before ;-)

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

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