JohnH's WL-1 (Slightly pre-emptive)

[JohnH]

Hey guys,

I'm going to put in an order for a WL-1 kit in a few weeks time, so this is a little pre-emptive, but I wanted to get some advice so I can make a few alterations to the standard kit.

There are a few things I'd like to change. For a start I'm going to ask that the top isn't bevelled. I want to push my woodworking skills and add a veneer (something with heaps of character, like black hearted Sassafras, but hopefully a little cheaper lol). I'm not really that well acquainted with the range of woods available, so if anyone has any suggestions for wood with particular character I'd be really interested to hear them.

I also can't quite decide what to do with the bridge. I'm not really interested in the tremolo bridge, so was going to ask that the cavity be left un-routed. Again though, I don't know enough to know what a good alternative would be? I have seen some great guitars which have single string bridges which I quite like the look of, so was leaning that way based purely on aesthetics. If anyone has used them I'd be keen to hear, or if anyone has any other suggestions?

As for electronics, who knows! I figure I have some time to think about that, but gotta sort out the bridge cavity etc before I can put in the order...

EDIT: Also, has anyone else built one? I've had a search around the forum, but haven't seen one yet.

[Dedman]

I only own 1 Rose type trem and I hate it LOL. You could string through the body and just have Gibson style bridge,would look cool too.
My fav guitar to play is my LP Jnr with a wrap over bridge. If you delete the Rose trem on the order be specific and delete the locking nut too, the factory needs things really well explained on Customs

[FrankenWashie]

I also can't quite decide what to do with the bridge. I'm not really interested in the tremolo bridge, so was going to ask that the cavity be left un-routed. Again though, I don't know enough to know what a good alternative would be? I have seen some great guitars which have single string bridges which I quite like the look of, so was leanin

You could look at something like a Schaller Signum: https://www.schaller-electronic.com/...num-bridge.htm

I am using their Hannes 6 on my TLA-TH: https://www.schaller-electronic.com/...e-Hannes-6.htm

But there are a heap of different options depending on what you like or can bear spending cash on and how much you want to challenge yourself.

Thers always the standard LP style bridge + tail piece, or the six string hard tail bridge like an ST kit.
PBG also carry the BABICZ full contact bridges which are supposed to be the ducks guts.

Hope that helps a bit.

[Dedman]

yea, that Schaller is what I have on my LP jnr Frankie. There is also the Hip Shot Baby Grand to consider but might not keep in style with the WL.

[FrankenWashie]

yea, that Schaller is what I have on my LP jnr Frankie. There is also the Hip Shot Baby Grand to consider but might not keep in style with the WL.

Yup, the cliche Black LP has one waiting for me to finish Farting about with paint. Eventually.

[JohnH]

Man, that Schaller Signum is pretty nice. The Hip Shot Baby Grand on the other hand... not really my style, though it's kind of funky.

Trawling the net last night I found these, which I also like: http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_...er_Bridge.html

The Babicz is also pretty cool.

So with those three options I'm pretty well resolved to skip the bridge cavity routing, and then go down one of these alternate paths.

Thanks for the heads up about the locking nut too Dedman, as I wouldn't have thought of it.

[FrankenWashie]

It's going to depend on how confident you are in setting up to drill the mounting points.
Schaller do some good templates online to assist with this for most of their standard bridges so that can be a plus.
Several smaller holes drilled with a template can be more easily achieved with basic tools than two larger bore deeper holes like the signum requires. A chunky hard tail bridge or the roller you've found can also hide some blemishes if you don't get it quite right to start with.

It all comes down to what you like and how confident you are to do the work required to fit what you like.

[JohnH]

Good advice FW. Luckily the hard tail bridge appeals to me most aesthetically, and while I'm reasonably confident I could drill the holes for the Schaller, it would also stress me out.

In other news, I ordered this great piece of spalted Plane tree online a few days ago and it arrived yesterday.



Now I just need to order the kit!

[Simon Barden]

Nice looking piece of veneer you have there.

One thing you would need to do before settling on a bridge is to find out the string spacing required. Hopefully Adam should be able to get the information for you but I suspect it will be a narrow spacing. That Schaller roller bridge is adjustable, but most of the others are fixed width, so you'll need to make sure you get the right one.

It's also worth thinking about getting the Grover tuner upgrade when you order it. If so, I'd stick with the mini-tuners as although you've got a full-sized headstock and the full-sized tuners should fit, the shaping of the headstock means that the tuners all angle-in, and with full-sized tuner keys, it could be difficult to tune without constantly catching the other tuners.

[jsergeant]

Good advice FW. Luckily the hard tail bridge appeals to me most aesthetically, and while I'm reasonably confident I could drill the holes for the Schaller, it would also stress me out.

In other news, I ordered this great piece of spalted Plane tree online a few days ago and it arrived yesterday.



Now I just need to order the kit!

Hi John, whereabouts did you order this from? Cheers