Rolf's TL-1A

[Sonic Mountain]

Yeah you really need to be sure of any finish compatibility if mixing products. Poly and Acrylic are very different in composition, so I'm not surprised. The finish outlined above would be fine with poly.

[RocknRolf]

@Sonic mountain, please a warning before sending pic's like this, people might catch me drooling on my keyboard, that red especially, stunning!
Thank you for the SCA tip.

@King Casey, thank you for sharing that insight!


Any idea's on the grain filling part? Do you use timbermate or a clear filler? Or will the poly or Acrillic fill in any gabs over multiple layers?

[Sonic Mountain]

I don’t use grain filler, but it does mean using a HEAP of coats. Really the most important thing is letting it dry properly before sanding and recoating. If you don’t the finish will sink in over the following months and show the grain up again. I think I will definitely use some kind of filler on the next one before clears.

[McCreed]

@ Sonic Mtn re: spraying poly.

3 Q's for ya:
What ratio are you doing for thinning?
What size nozzle?
What PSI?

Thanks,
Mick

[king casey]

Yeah you really need to be sure of any finish compatibility if mixing products. Poly and Acrylic are very different in composition, so I'm not surprised. The finish outlined above would be fine with poly.

Probably what's required is a database of what 'isn't' compatible.
For disclosure I was using Duplicolor Autospray with the Cabot's Gloss.
Also, Ironlak paint is not compatible with Feast & Watson wipe-on poly.
Carry on....

cheers, Mark.

[RocknRolf]

@Sonic mtn: Do you use those Rattle cans or do you have a spray gun? something like this:

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...0g/288522.html

Thanks again, great help!

[RocknRolf]

Great idea, I've learned the hard way with surfboards...

Found this sheet of Timbermate for compatibillity:
- Timbermate is completely compatible with all known top coatings, acid catalyst, acrylics, vinyl, P.U., P.E., and Nitro-Cellulose Lacquers.
- Timbermate will take water-based stains, solvent stains, oil base stains, French Polish, Wax Polish, Lin Seed and various oils.

http://timbermateasia.com.ph/tm_unique.php

[king casey]

Great idea, I've learned the hard way with surfboards...

Found this sheet of Timbermate for compatibillity: http://timbermateasia.com.ph/tm_unique.php

Despite the label stating 'non shrinking' it will shrink like buggery under paint.

cheers, Mark.

[Sonic Mountain]

@Sonic mtn: Do you use those Rattle cans or do you have a spray gun? something like this:

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...0g/288522.html

Thanks again, great help!

@ Sonic Mtn re: spraying poly.

3 Q's for ya:
What ratio are you doing for thinning?
What size nozzle?
What PSI?

Thanks,
Mick

Although I keep threatening to get out my spray rig, every guitar I've done to date has been rattle cans, acrylic, poly and an early adventure with whatever the heck Rustoleum is. This is mostly due to me being pretty allergic to spray gun cleaning and maintenance. If I ever start doing volume runs I will be building a booth and using the gun.

And yeah that SCA clear is pretty good stuff. I find the Septone sprays a bit more nicely, but they are both good.

[McCreed]

Thanks Sonic.

I've been experimenting with spraying poly with a recently acquired airbrush. I'm thinking it would handy for necks mostly and a less intensive clean up process. Dan Erlwine uses airbrush for touch up work.

I've only done some scrap bits of pine, but I think I'm ready to try a maple neck now. So far I think the 1:1 mix is best with the teeny tiny .5mm nozzle of the airbrush.

As for rattle can clear lacquer, I second the Septone over the Duplicolor.